Newbie question: I have a Toptank Mini and want to practise making a micro coil or two before i actually invest in a dedicated rta…I would probably use Kanthal A1 28 or 30 AWG…can I roll coils that are around 1.5 ohm…and will they work in the Toptank or must it be a sub ohm build (not really into sub ohming as Im a MTL vaper). I usually cape at 12-14 watts.
Subtank RBA builds? show em!
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Hey CV welcome and congrats. Subtanks benefit from more flow with the current gen of high performance tanks. They have the airflow to support it. I'd be looking at wire closer to the factory spec and try 25/26 AWG at 2.5mm and higher dia (more juice flow). Don't think that just by going thicker wire (lower Ω) you're chasin' plumes. Better production should yield density as the indicator. A quicker or fainter draw gets you what you like if you're MTL. So watts or ohms isn't the whole story.
For more on efficiency look into the effects of strain on production and density see…
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Tag me on either above for help and I'll do my best (or a subscriber).
Good luck
Hey CV welcome and congrats. Subtanks benefit from more flow with the current gen of high performance tanks. They have the airflow to support it. I'd be looking at wire closer to the factory spec and try 25/26 AWG at 2.5mm and higher dia (more juice flow). Don't think that just by going thicker wire (lower Ω) you're chasin' plumes. Better production should yield density as the indicator. A quicker or fainter draw gets you what you like if you're MTL. So watts or ohms isn't the whole story.
For more on efficiency look into the effects of strain on production and density see…
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
Tag me on either above for help and I'll do my best (or a subscriber).
Good luck
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Thanks MacatechVpr…I am getting 26, 28 and 30 awg kanthal to experiment. Your post helped me with a question Ive always had on diameters of coils…did not know more diameter = more juice flow.
Yeah I sometimes feel like a mac-a-tach vaper. Busted. Why I got a dozen mods in front of me.
All about matching the power to the air and juice flow. Think about more wick as a fatter garden hose and the coil as the nozzle. Too tight for the volume and you constrain it increasing speed but not flow. Use tightness (and power which further forces speed) as the gas pedal. The more wick (and diameter) the more pedal you have to push. Higher velocity then gives you more diffusion but not necessarily more production (vapor density). Want more volume then? Increase diameter and wind efficiency. Find the balance for the device.
Good luck CV (great handle)
p.s. Grab an instrument screwdriver and wind a tensioned micro as I described earlier in this thread. You need optimal density for MTL to keep puff time and battery use down. A t.m.c. fires fast and evenly for excellent flavor density in any device. Need help give us a shout.
All about matching the power to the air and juice flow. Think about more wick as a fatter garden hose and the coil as the nozzle. Too tight for the volume and you constrain it increasing speed but not flow. Use tightness (and power which further forces speed) as the gas pedal. The more wick (and diameter) the more pedal you have to push. Higher velocity then gives you more diffusion but not necessarily more production (vapor density). Want more volume then? Increase diameter and wind efficiency. Find the balance for the device.
Good luck CV (great handle)
p.s. Grab an instrument screwdriver and wind a tensioned micro as I described earlier in this thread. You need optimal density for MTL to keep puff time and battery use down. A t.m.c. fires fast and evenly for excellent flavor density in any device. Need help give us a shout.
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Trying to understand what is optimal density in a tensioned micro coil? Is that when you pack the coil together real tight, by compressing it together with ceramic tweezers while you dry burn the coil?
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Posted your answer here…Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step. | Page 71 | Post #1410…so as not to go too OT on this pic thread.
Good luck CV, hope you give it a go.
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Not a coil build but something I've done with the topbox.. The ink of the battery cover started do pell off, so I removed it all n decided to polish it.. worked so well that I decided to polish the whole thing [emoji23][emoji23]
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What wire gauge and ohms?Loose parallel clapton..
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Sorry. Inner is 26 n outer is 33.. Turn out, 0,15..
Gonna make with 28 n 33.. ID is 3mm..
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Certainly yes. I'd advise using 28 awg. 30 is very thin and can be a bit fiddly. Not sure about the Top tank but don't see any reason why you would have to make a coil sub ohm.
Normally I'd agree with you LK as for previous generation atomizers. But the Subtank and later are designed to accommodate much greater wicking, juice and air flow. While an 8or9 wind 28 single can deliver a lot of power output it's anemic without more wetted contact surface area. It'll work but with a longer pull at that high power.…just like previous devices (and not much vapor density if spaced). Better to take that step to thicker wire and keep ohms a bit higher just above 1Ω and you start to see performance more resembling a full cig draw at 3 or 4 secs. For that you need parallels in the above gauge or 25/26/27 AWG and up Ø to >2.5mm. A good single starter for the PT I think…27/8/8 2.50mmØ=1.278Ω…great surface area and heat output (@18W) but just long enough to sit neatly over the air hole without too much risk of skewing in installation.
Ah, forgot to mention. That's a contact coil.
Good luck all.
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I just did a build myself (first one not being a pre-made one) with 30 gauge 2mm 6 wraps reading at 1.6 and using 12 watts on my Toptank mini.
Edit: well this worked ok for a little bit then got constant dry hits. Still a newbie at this so going to keep at it.
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That's a rather warm build B for a start. I can imagine why so many were taking hot dry hits when they were watching the video and building such for much smaller clearos. Basically a good idea, too small a diameter and not enough wicking for the device. You need to take that same build to 2.5mm and you'll be fine.
30/6/2.5 @ 0.9355Ω (3.87V @ 16W, 152 mW/mm²)
30/6/2.0 @ 1.Ω (4.39V @ 12W, 266 mW/mm²)
The links point to steam-engine.com, a coil building reference tool. A very good place to start.
The milliwatts/mm2 is a great spec to use. I find most peeps are comfortable in a range between 150-200mw/mm2. Some vapes and gear I personally go higher, some lower. But it's a good middle ground. Also you'll notice that your build is a lot hotter as this stat indicates the heat distribution overall for the coil for the total watts applied. This is also reflected in the corresponding voltage output which is substantially higher as well. So you need to find a middle ground in terms of heat. Once you decide on that you need to make sure you have the wick, juice flow and air to match that. Once you do, guess what…no dry hits.
As you may see even at a higher wattage you are producing a lower heat distribution across the same turns. Since the diameter is greater you also will have more flow. Increasing wattage will get you to a higher voltage and more production if you can then handle it. Also with lower voltage your batt will last longer.
If you look at the Ohm's law tab you can verify the V/W/Ω relationship of this and other wind alternatives to get a sense of the final heat output.
Hope this short intro helps. Welcome and good luck.
Thank you YES, very helpful. Now if I can just wrap my head around it.That's a rather warm build B for a start. I can imagine why so many were taking hot dry hits when they were watching the video and building such for much smaller clearos. Basically a good idea, too small a diameter and not enough wicking for the device. You need to take that same build to 2.5mm and you'll be fine.
30/6/2.5 @ 0.9355Ω (3.87V @ 16W, 152 mW/mm²)
30/6/2.0 @ 1.Ω (4.39V @ 12W, 266 mW/mm²)
The links point to steam-engine.com, a coil building reference tool. A very good place to start.
The milliwatts/mm2 is a great spec to use. I find most peeps are comfortable in a range between 150-200mw/mm2. Some vapes and gear I personally go higher, some lower. But it's a good middle ground. Also you'll notice that your build is a lot hotter as this stat indicates the heat distribution overall for the coil for the total watts applied. This is also reflected in the corresponding voltage output which is substantially higher as well. So you need to find a middle ground in terms of heat. Once you decide on that you need to make sure you have the wick, juice flow and air to match that. Once you do, guess what…no dry hits.
As you may see even at a higher wattage you are producing a lower heat distribution across the same turns. Since the diameter is greater you also will have more flow. Increasing wattage will get you to a higher voltage and more production if you can then handle it. Also with lower voltage your batt will last longer.
If you look at the Ohm's law tab you can verify the V/W/Ω relationship of this and other wind alternatives to get a sense of the final heat output.
Hope this short intro helps. Welcome and good luck.
@MacTechVpr I like cooler vapes and my builds are warmer than I like, but I only had 30 gauge to practice with. Can you recommend a wire? I have some 28 gauge ordered coming and seems according to SE that using the same build I was with that gauge wire will give a much cooler vape.
Find that 25 or 26 AWG are closest to the factory wire spec which I believe is metric.The first is the ideal for wire mass on this tank. Thicker (24) can be done but it's clumsy in the RDA and doesn't fire as fast. Try to up Ø to 2.75mm or 7/64" (2.778mm). The new v2 RDA (larger lower hole) tends to flood with thinner wicking. Some examples at around .8-9Ω (the sweet spot for many VW under 60W)…
25/7/7 2.75 @ 0.7995Ω
25/7/7 2.778 @ 0.805Ω
Meantime, you can try 28AWG at…
25/8/8 2.778 @ 1.701Ω
Not as much wetted coil surface as the 25 but a moderately warm vape at 15W. Better averaged performance with the thicker wire and less change of going dry with the greater wicking diameter.
With these you'll be able to run more wicking with higher power. The above choices allow you to stay cool with good density. But they'll also allow you to apply more power comfortably.
Good luck B and take a look at
Protank MicroCoil Discussion!!
Tensioned Micro Coils. The next step.
for the background on applying strain to balance power in rebuilding.
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Thank you YES, very helpful. Now if I can just wrap my head around it.
Hope you're hangin' in there. Great 4th to you and yours.
Good luck.
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