Subtank RBA builds? show em!
- Thread starter jlwiseman
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Me?
I preferred the regular plus version (the original was before my time I'm afraid) and used 2,5mm ID coils with it. I only use titanium though, so I needed around 8 to 9 wraps at least of twisted 28g which was a bit cramped on the little RBA.
Haven't plaid with my Toptank much since I got the Bachelors, but just wanted to show the difference between the size and placement of the juice holes on the Plus RBA and Plus V2 RBA:
Plus V2 on the left, regular Plus on the right:
I find the V2 very difficult to wick personally. Besides the huge hole and my relative thin wicks it is also placed rather low in reference to the coil. A regular plus with the hole drilled out another 50% or so would be much easier in use imo.
Hey, thanks for this great pic example. Truth is for all the Kanger builds I've done, never built out the v2 head. I like the v1 as an option but stocked up on the original juice channel varieties. Have seldom had any problem whatsoever with feeding or the need for thinning out wicks. In fact, I introduced the "chunky wick" on this thread…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 136 | Post#2716…when we were mostly still building micro and small macro diameters, <2.5mm. You see, the deck dimensionally lends itself to wider rather than longer coils. And as you know I'm all about symmetry and giving the atomizer what it needs. Either way we can add wetted contact surface. A good thing. In fact a great thing finally. However the greater the wind radius the more wicking is required and…it must be at least as dense or you lose flow.
If you thin denser thicker wicks for the Subtank RDA (or any other) you are actually limiting access to the flow. It's sort of like choking down the nozzle of a garden hose or limiting the intake on a carburetor or fuel injection. You've provided a small pathway for the fuel. And it's not under pressure so no increased velocity. Further its impeded by gravity and thinning just reduces the overall permeability (in the juice flow version, or standard rda). The result may likely be more diffusion of vapor from greater heat applied relative to flow and no aid to vaporization. Rather it may result in the reduction of it.
So tight wicks and thin leads may only lead to coils running dryer and yes, unnecessarily hotter. Especially if the wick is thin or light at the coil anyway. Not a good thing. There are other ways to achieve more production and clouds. Reducing vaporization and increasing diffusion is not an advantage. Less cannot be more.
Good luck.
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Yes, two strands. I'm struggling in getting between 0,3~0,5 ohm.. Gonna try tomorrow with 03 strands, just don't know how to do it. I've seen people twisting two strains clockwise and after a third on counter-clockwise.. But this seems to take too much time to get done correctly .. I'm just looking for a coil that I could use "all day".. Stock Toptank Kanthal are 24 awg?
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I came back to attempting the reef coil tonight. 0.5x0.1 N80 over 26g 316L. 2.4 ID (as usual) and reads 0.58 ohms in power mode / 0.24 ohms in temp mode. This coil is beastly in the STM. If I could do it over again I would go with a wrap, or two less in the coil just so it fits better. Took 30 min to get the hotspots out...
* Temp mode won't actually function. Just goes into temp protection right away for some reason. Any thoughts? *
Bent the screw in the foreground tightening this bish down. Hopefully I've still got a spare around.
* Temp mode won't actually function. Just goes into temp protection right away for some reason. Any thoughts? *
Bent the screw in the foreground tightening this bish down. Hopefully I've still got a spare around.
Hey, thanks for this great pic example. Truth is for all the Kanger builds I've done, never built out the v2 head. I like the v1 as an option but stocked up on the original juice channel varieties. Have seldom had any problem whatsoever with feeding or the need for thinning out wicks. In fact, I introduced the "chunky wick" on this thread…Protank MicroCoil Discussion!! | Page 136 | Post#2716…when we were mostly still building micro and small macro diameters, <2.5mm. You see, the deck dimensionally lends itself to wider rather than longer coils. And as you know I'm all about symmetry and giving the atomizer what it needs. Either way we can add wetted contact surface. A good thing. In fact a great thing finally. However the greater the wind radius the more wicking is required and…it must be at least as dense or you lose flow.
If you thin denser thicker wicks for the Subtank RDA (or any other) you are actually limiting access to the flow. It's sort of like choking down the nozzle of a garden hose or limiting the intake on a carburetor or fuel injection. You've provided a small pathway for the fuel. And it's not under pressure so no increased velocity. Further its impeded by gravity and thinning just reduces the overall permeability (in the juice flow version, or standard rda). The result may likely be more diffusion of vapor from greater heat applied relative to flow and no aid to vaporization. Rather it may result in the reduction of it.
So tight wicks and thin leads may only lead to coils running dryer and yes, unnecessarily hotter. Especially if the wick is thin or light at the coil anyway. Not a good thing. There are other ways to achieve more production and clouds. Reducing vaporization and increasing diffusion is not an advantage. Less cannot be more.
Good luck.
Hi Mac
That chunky wick should work well for the V2 I suspect.
As it happens I just switched from my tight wick to a loose one yesterday, juice consumption goes twice as fast! But I can vape at lower temps with it and get similar results. The tight one worked really well too though, I think on the tighter side is more my taste.
I came back to attempting the reef coil tonight. 0.5x0.1 N80 over 26g 316L. 2.4 ID (as usual) and reads 0.58 ohms in power mode / 0.24 ohms in temp mode. This coil is beastly in the STM. If I could do it over again I would go with a wrap, or two less in the coil just so it fits better. Took 30 min to get the hotspots out...
* Temp mode won't actually function. Just goes into temp protection right away for some reason. Any thoughts? *
Bent the screw in the foreground tightening this bish down. Hopefully I've still got a spare around.
What a beast!
To the best of my knowledge Nichrome isn't a temp control wire, were you mistaken it for Nickel perhaps?
I also recommend sticking to spaced out coils only for TC, contact coils don't seem to work very well.
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Yep, do seem to recall you mentioned NiCr not nickel. The looser wicking seems fits your power/diameter better considering the airflow from what you say (v1, single-slot AFC). The more surface area and air, the more flow potential you're creating. Sorta like askin' how fast can you go on the road? You built it! LOL The important thing is beginning to build that stable coil. The tool that's going to help you fine tune getting the maximum density of production out of that physical space. What you do with it from there…that's up to you and your tastes. Me, I know that single strand high density is what you can count on for a reliable realistic vape at up to 60-some watts reliably at >.3Ω on a mech or variable.
Don't know if you meant to pick up @RedheadedBStarD's post (took 30-mins to get the hot spots out). I played around a lot with really gnarly twisted and Tin Man (ribbon wire) builds when I first started. If you've succeeded in building a t.m.c. then you know that it's the direct opposite. Both achieve specific kinds of output or purposes some might say. But I think it's pretty obvious you're not going to sit there and chain a reef for 20 mins. Especially one as thermally unstable as the one pictured that won't go TC. No put down Red, your's is actually not a bad example. Yep, that last (frontmost) turn's prolly the one that did it in. Symmetry matters and you lose it when you exceed what the device can handle. Otherwise, the winds relatively tight.
My gig's been about efficiency and gettin' folks ready for the possible Vapeaggedon. Wrong thread, I know. But that's where I picked up on your question.
All I can say is tag me while ya can. Good luck all.
Don't know if you meant to pick up @RedheadedBStarD's post (took 30-mins to get the hot spots out). I played around a lot with really gnarly twisted and Tin Man (ribbon wire) builds when I first started. If you've succeeded in building a t.m.c. then you know that it's the direct opposite. Both achieve specific kinds of output or purposes some might say. But I think it's pretty obvious you're not going to sit there and chain a reef for 20 mins. Especially one as thermally unstable as the one pictured that won't go TC. No put down Red, your's is actually not a bad example. Yep, that last (frontmost) turn's prolly the one that did it in. Symmetry matters and you lose it when you exceed what the device can handle. Otherwise, the winds relatively tight.
My gig's been about efficiency and gettin' folks ready for the possible Vapeaggedon. Wrong thread, I know. But that's where I picked up on your question.
All I can say is tag me while ya can. Good luck all.
Hi Mac
That chunky wick should work well for the V2 I suspect.
As it happens I just switched from my tight wick to a loose one yesterday, juice consumption goes twice as fast! But I can vape at lower temps with it and get similar results. The tight one worked really well too though, I think on the tighter side is more my taste.
What a beast!
To the best of my knowledge Nichrome isn't a temp control wire, were you mistaken it for Nickel perhaps?
I also recommend sticking to spaced out coils only for TC, contact coils don't seem to work very well.
Nichrome wrap with a Stainless steel core.
It is pretty Red. Hope ya know I wasn't razzin' on ya. Good luck. Vape on!
Never even considered it.
Hey guys back at it again here's the latest build
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I'm just getting into building. I've had a 200 box with a crown tank & .25 coil running around 80w & am very satisfied with the overall experience. I just picked up a topbox mini kit & am using my first coil. It's the pre wrapped one & reads at .34 ohm. After wicking I started around 27w & worked my way up to 50. The guy at the most reputable local shop told me before to fire & adjust watts to get around 4.2v. I prefer the results at less power. I'm still getting used to the new setup & it's definitely a different experience than the other setup but just as satisfying. Anything I might be doing wrong or could improve on? Any suggestions what to start out with when I start building from scratch?
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Some coils are too expert to me haha, congrats to those are able to make them! ..
Has just done this parallel with awg 26 turning out 0, 24 ohm b4 fire and 0,38 after firing it..
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Has just done this parallel with awg 26 turning out 0, 24 ohm b4 fire and 0,38 after firing it..
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Morning coil buil.. Vertical (still need some practice) awg26.. Gonna buy awg24 for verticals..
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That's pretty cool looking! How do you wick that?Morning coil buil.. Vertical (still need some practice) awg26.. Gonna buy awg24 for verticals..
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Basically you need to wrap the coil around with cotton. It's bit tricky witch made leave this build behind, I would need to try several times to get it as good a parallel build is.. And, I don't have that time ATM.
Just made another build, parallel awg26, about 4 wraps came out @ 0,20 ohm. Pancake wicking method seemed to be the best so far to me! Vaping around 15~20 watts. Can't go further 25w without thinking about a dry hit, that usually happens at this wattage.. Lol!
Edit
Like this, but I didn't do it properly..
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I came back to attempting the reef coil tonight. 0.5x0.1 N80 over 26g 316L. 2.4 ID (as usual) and reads 0.58 ohms in power mode / 0.24 ohms in temp mode. This coil is beastly in the STM. If I could do it over again I would go with a wrap, or two less in the coil just so it fits better. Took 30 min to get the hotspots out...
* Temp mode won't actually function. Just goes into temp protection right away for some reason. Any thoughts? *
Bent the screw in the foreground tightening this bish down. Hopefully I've still got a spare around.
So pretty. Did you lightly twist the ribbon before "claptoning" around the SS? if so, how many cuts to the fingers did you take?
I just did a 28g SS 316 core with 34g Ka1 wrap last night and I, too, cannot get it to fire in TC mode. Says Dry Coil every time...
Edit: I wrapped a clapton last night using 27g SS 316 and 32g Ni 80 and It is working great in TC on my Sig Plus (26650) with the Ti setting, temp around 360 f at 61 J...
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Tight twist before claptoning actually. No cuts lol
The temp control thing is a known issue with the dna200 sometimes. Try stripping the wrap off your leads. It helped intermittently with mine.
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Just done this clapton at home, outer is awg 33 n inner is 25.. Takes too long to heat up, I didn't enjoy and rolled back to parallel 26awg..
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