Thinking of Getting Cool Fire IV... 2 Simple Noob Questions. Help!

[DarkVapes]

Hi, names Christian. I'm obviously new and I've got a couple of questions concerning the Cool Fire IV.

1. What tank should I get with it? I want something where I fill the liquid and see it in the tank (clearomizer?). They advertise it with an ISub kit I believe. I do like sub ohming unless you think thats not the ebst way to make optimal use of the device. Whats the newest and fanciest thing I can get?

2. Being that I don't know crap about wattage and voltage. What volt/watt setting could I keep it on to make optimal use of the device without risking damaging it over a prolonged period of time?

Any other advice is also welcomed. Thank you for your time.

 

[suprtrkr]

The CoolFire4 is a very nice mod. I don't have one, but I have had numerous Innokin products over the years and they are good stuff. A lot of people have one, and they love them. That's a good choice. However, at 40 watts, it's a bit underpowered for deep subohm. You'll do fine at .5 or above, but when you try a .2 coil head, I think you'll want a few more watts, up in the 50 or 60 watt range anyway. Still, at .5, which is where most of the pre-made subohm coil heads are hitting, it should be great. For a tank, the iSub is supposed to be excellent. I don't have one of those either. In fact, I rebuild and don't use any tanks with pre-made heads. But again it's an Innokin and you should expect quality from that brand. It's a couple bucks cheaper than it's major competition, which is Kanger's Subtank. One drawback to the iSub is .5 coils are all that are available. That's fine if you like subohm. In fact, those two are paired together for a reason and you should expect them to work beautifully together. The Kanger product, the Subtank, is also very well thought of, and it has a much wider selection of coils; +Ohm, Subohm and an RBA deck as well so custom coils can be installed. It would also be a good pair for the CF4. Before you buy, also take a look at the Innokin iTazte MVP 3.0 Pro, which is a 60 watt mod from the same company. I haven't checked, but I think it's a bit more costly.

I also (pretty much generically) recommend people who are considering a new mod to at least look at Temp Control as I have a couple of them and love 'em. I think TC is the coming thing. In the same general price range and form factor, you will find the EVIC VT. It is also getting good reviews, and comes bundled with a color matched tank-- probably not as good a tank as the iSUb or the Subtank-- with +Ohm Subohm and TC coils available. The eLeaf iSmoka iStick 40w TC has also been recently been released. It does not have a paired tank for TC, and is so new there isn't much in the way of feedback on it yet. Another choice for a TC tank is the Smok TCT, supposed to also be getting good reviews. Hope all this helps, and welcome to the board.

 

[Kellyrob1uk]

I have the cool fire 4 with a isub g tank for sub ohming and for regular vapouring I have the aspire mini. I think both are great. My partner has the mvp 3 which has brilliant battery life. He wishes he got the pro now though as it has higher wattage and even a bigger battery

 

[DarkVapes]

sup, I've read your posts on the forums recently, i'm very fortunate you added your input.
Your information was highly helpful - though I might not get 100% of it.

Thanks man. Thanks everyone.

Is there a wattage/volts setting I can leave the machine on that will make optimal use of its power but not tax the machine too much?

 

[DarkVapes]

kelly, what do you do more of sub ohming or regular vaping?

 

[suprtrkr]

sup, I've read your posts on the forums recently, i'm very fortunate you added your input.
Your information was highly helpful - though I might not get 100% of it.

Thanks man. Thanks everyone.

Is there a wattage/volts setting I can leave the machine on that will make optimal use of its power but not tax the machine too much?

Lol, ask more questions, dude. I'll keep typing until you do understand. If you'll tag me, or quote my post, the system will notify me and I'll remember to come back and look. Just click the "reply" link on the bottom of my post.

 

[DarkVapes]

Lol, ask more questions, dude. I'll keep typing until you do understand. If you'll tag me, or quote my post, the system will notify me and I'll remember to come back and look. Just click the "reply" link on the bottom of my post.

aaaahhh i see lol... good looking out for the gracious offer

 

[Kellyrob1uk]

Well I only just started 8 days ago and I started off regular vaping and now I mainly switch beetween the 2. Sub ohming drains your battery a lot quicker and guzzles your juice. If you wanna do huge clouds go for sub ohming. Also half your nicotine if you sub ohm. I do 12mg regular vaping and 6mg sub ohming

 

[gadgetkeith]

hi and welcome

both the tanks that have been mentioned are good and very popular i have the kanger subtank mini recomended by a friend

i now have 3 of them now i like them so much there are loads of how to videos on youtube for most of the popular tanks

start off on a very low watt setting and work your way up a couple of watts at a time until you find your sweet spot the higher you go the hotter the vape will get and eventualy the flavor will start to fall off and start to taste dryish after that it will start to taste burnt you want to stop before you get to the burnt taste and start to back off and lower the watts again and you should find a nice medium ie the sweet spot

it also depends on how you prefer to draw be it mouth to lung=MTL or streight to lung =STL

i tend to prefer a STL you just need to find what suits you

the more you get use to it the better the hit the higher the wattage you may want to try but still work your way up slowly to find that good taste ie the sweet spot

read loads of threads and ask loads of question

there are loads of realy nice friendly and helpful vapors on here

enjoy and i hope this helps you out

 

[Katya]

Hi, names Christian. I'm obviously new and I've got a couple of questions concerning the Cool Fire IV.

1. What tank should I get with it? I want something where I fill the liquid and see it in the tank (clearomizer?). They advertise it with an ISub kit I believe. I do like sub ohming unless you think thats not the ebst way to make optimal use of the device. Whats the newest and fanciest thing I can get?

2. Being that I don't know crap about wattage and voltage. What volt/watt setting could I keep it on to make optimal use of the device without risking damaging it over a prolonged period of time?

Any other advice is also welcomed. Thank you for your time.

Hi Christian and welcome!

Cool Fire 4 is a great PV! Congratulations.

If you like sub-ohming, try Kanger's Subox tank--I believe it's called the Subtank mini V2. It comes with pre-made coils as well as an RBA deck (you make your own coil and wick it and install it). I suggest you watch some YouTube videos--Phil Busardo is one of the best reviewers and tutors.

However, if you're a beginner and don't know much about volts and wattages and such, you may start with something simpler like an Aerotank or Eleaf GS Airtank; the GS Air would be my first choice--it's cheaper and better. They will both work great on the Cool Fire.

 

[gadgetkeith]

if ya decide to go for the kanger subtank mini

i would try out both the occ coils it comes with the 0.5 ohm coil installed and has a 1.2 ohm occ coil also and a rebuildable deck and you also get spare o,rings some cotton pad for wicks a small screwdriver for the rebuildable deck spare screws and a couple of 0.5 ohm coils for the build deck also a spare tank glass

for the price you get a realy nice package

once you have tried the occ coils and found out which of them you prefer i recomend buying a spare pack of 5 get the horizontal ones not the new style vertical coils and as you get through them dont throw them out keep them as they are real easy to rebuild and rewick and you will be set for ages the only other thing you will need when you get to start rebuilding is some wire and cotton you use the supplied screwdriver as a jig to wind your new coils around also

its a great tank to start with and the flavor and vapor production is realy good

good luck with what ever you decide to go for

 

[Jayrell]

I got the wife a CF4 and i have a MVP pro. Both very good devices! We both use a subtank mini as our main tanks. The rebuildable section is great but not something I would recommend to someone just starting out. The premade coils work really well though so that's what u could start with and worry about building after you get a firmer grasp on what your doing and what u like. What watts to use is very subjective but the higher the wattage the hotter the Vale. So start low and work your way up like someone else said above. The nautilus mini is a good tank with good flavor and airflow adjustments but not a subohm tank. Good for mouth to lung if your just getting off analogs. But if your into direct lung hits then not the tank for you. You want something easy to work with at first so I don't recommend diving into building and wicking right away. Get something with premade coils so u use them when they burn u change them out and keep going. Hassel free..... The subtank mini has good air flow options that will allow you to do mouth to lung or direct lung so that would be my number one choice.... The cf 4 would be a good starting place. Like I said I have the MVP pro with 60 watts of power but I have still not cranked it over 40. I love the battery life though and I doubt I get into the extreme subohming I like to build around .6 to 1.2. And 40 Watts is enough for me I just like the fact that I can go up to 60 lol. My wife lloves her cool fire it fits nicely in her hand even in my hand it is very comfortable and I have large hands. The MVP is bigger and heavier which I don't mind but the wife doesn't care for it way to awkward for her. Anyway I hope this helps out a little the main thing is find what ever set up that will keep you off Analog's. Good luck and on behalf of all of us on ECF don't be scared to ask. We have all been through the fire and will help when ever we can!

 

[DarkVapes]

The CoolFire4 is a very nice mod. I don't have one, but I have had numerous Innokin products over the years and they are good stuff. A lot of people have one, and they love them. That's a good choice. However, at 40 watts, it's a bit underpowered for deep subohm. You'll do fine at .5 or above, but when you try a .2 coil head, I think you'll want a few more watts, up in the 50 or 60 watt range anyway. Still, at .5, which is where most of the pre-made subohm coil heads are hitting, it should be great. For a tank, the iSub is supposed to be excellent. I don't have one of those either. In fact, I rebuild and don't use any tanks with pre-made heads. But again it's an Innokin and you should expect quality from that brand. It's a couple bucks cheaper than it's major competition, which is Kanger's Subtank. One drawback to the iSub is .5 coils are all that are available. That's fine if you like subohm. In fact, those two are paired together for a reason and you should expect them to work beautifully together. The Kanger product, the Subtank, is also very well thought of, and it has a much wider selection of coils; +Ohm, Subohm and an RBA deck as well so custom coils can be installed. It would also be a good pair for the CF4. Before you buy, also take a look at the Innokin iTazte MVP 3.0 Pro, which is a 60 watt mod from the same company. I haven't checked, but I think it's a bit more costly.

I also (pretty much generically) recommend people who are considering a new mod to at least look at Temp Control as I have a couple of them and love 'em. I think TC is the coming thing. In the same general price range and form factor, you will find the EVIC VT. It is also getting good reviews, and comes bundled with a color matched tank-- probably not as good a tank as the iSUb or the Subtank-- with +Ohm Subohm and TC coils available. The eLeaf iSmoka iStick 40w TC has also been recently been released. It does not have a paired tank for TC, and is so new there isn't much in the way of feedback on it yet. Another choice for a TC tank is the Smok TCT, supposed to also be getting good reviews. Hope all this helps, and welcome to the board.

i don’t really need deep sub ohm, perhaps not even sub ohm though i do enjoy my .5 ohm coil.

when you say you rebuild these tanks, are there a lot of pieces involved? do you literally get the coils (picturing these metallic-slinky-like things) and place them inside of the tanks? What do you get out of rebuilding - the ability to customize?

do you recommend a subtank mini or nano?

I would consider that evic vt except I have an ego one I am unhappy with and the evic even looks exactly like it - thanks for the recommendation though

is there no recommended wattage/volt configuration I can leave the machine on most of the time that would make optimal use of the device while not taxing it too much or no because my needs will constantly be changing? It would make my newb life allot easier lol

thanks.

 

[suprtrkr]

i don’t really need deep sub ohm, perhaps not even sub ohm though i do enjoy my .5 ohm coil.

when you say you rebuild these tanks, are there a lot of pieces involved? do you literally get the coils (picturing these metallic-slinky-like things) and place them inside of the tanks? What do you get out of rebuilding - the ability to customize?

do you recommend a subtank mini or nano?

if i wanted to start with say the subtank at an ohm higher than sub ohming (at least 1 I assume) do I have to buy the coil separately or do they come with the machine/kit? I say this because it is a “sub” tank

I would consider that evic vt except I have an ego one I am unhappy with and the evic even looks exactly like it - thanks for the recommendation though

is there no recommended wattage/volt configuration I can leave the machine on most of the time that would make optimal use of the device while not taxing it too much or no because my needs will constantly be changing? It would make my newb life allot easier lol

thanks.

Well, a .5 coil is subohm-- you're right, this means "less than one ohm"-- but not deep subohm, that would be down in the .2-ish range. The CF4 should work just fine down to .5s.

I do not have a Subtank, and I am reluctant to offer a comparison between the Mini and Nano. Someone will be along who can soon, I am sure. I will observe the mini has been out a while, while the nano is brand new. That may not matter. Or then again, perhaps it will. Finally, if juice capacity is important to you-- it is to me-- the nano will hold less as it is smaller.

The Subtank-- they all use the same coils AFAIK-- has different coils available. Some of these are above one ohm and thus not "subohm." One of the really nice things about the Subtank is it has an unusually wide variety of coils available so the vape experience can be adjusted. It also has a RBA deck-- RBA is an acronym meaning Re-Buildable Atomizer-- so it can be completely customized within limits of what can be put in the deck physical size wise. You will get several coils of different values-- two or three anyway, I think-- when you purchase the Subtank. After this-- they are wear parts and have to be periodically replaced-- they will have to be purchased separately. If you are smart and willing to order ahead, these can be bought online more cheaply than in your local shop. You might, however, want to visit the local shop and buy any coils for the tank that are not included in the purchase so you can try them to see which you like best. This might change with different e-liquids, too. Coils are generally sold in packs of 5, and run 15-20 dollars per pack. One of the reasons people start rebuilding is it's much cheaper than new coils. One must acquire tools, and a stock of wire and wick material, but once one has you can make coils for a year or more on a tiny supply of material, adding only your own labor. SAFETY NOTE: if you are going to build coils, you MUST use an ohmmeter to check for shorts in your build. A short is very bad news. It can ruin a battery in an instant and might injure you to boot.

There are a lot of little pieces involved in rebuilding. Yes, you take a short piece of wire and wrap it around a mandrel of specific diameter to make the coil. Then the coil is installed on the build deck and tested with the ohmmeter. Then you (usually, depending on wire) test the coil on the mod to make sure it works and is heating evenly. The coil, once cooled again, is wicked by pulling a piece of wick-- usually cotton-- through the center of the coil and cutting/arranging the tails in a manner appropriate to the particular tank. The wick is then primed with juice and tested on the mod to make vapor. The tank is reassembled, tested with the ohmmeter again to see if the reassembly might have shorted it, then filled with juice and vaped. The attached photos are 1) a Kayfun "Russian 91" tank; 2) the tank disassembled for building; 3) the build deck (yes, it's missing a screw) attached to the ohmmeter, which I find is a handy building stand; 4) another close up of the build deck to show a different angle. It sounds complex, and there is a learning curve, but it isn't all that hard to do once you get the hang of it.

You are mistaken about the EVIC VT loking like you eGo One. The one I meant is this one. It's a nice piece of gear.

 

[DarkVapes]

Well, a .5 coil is subohm-- you're right, this means "less than one ohm"-- but not deep subohm, that would be down in the .2-ish range. The CF4 should work just fine down to .5s.

I do not have a Subtank, and I am reluctant to offer a comparison between the Mini and Nano. Someone will be along who can soon, I am sure. I will observe the mini has been out a while, while the nano is brand new. That may not matter. Or then again, perhaps it will. Finally, if juice capacity is important to you-- it is to me-- the nano will hold less as it is smaller.

The Subtank-- they all use the same coils AFAIK-- has different coils available. Some of these are above one ohm and thus not "subohm." One of the really nice things about the Subtank is it has an unusually wide variety of coils available so the vape experience can be adjusted. It also has a RBA deck-- RBA is an acronym meaning Re-Buildable Atomizer-- so it can be completely customized within limits of what can be put in the deck physical size wise. You will get several coils of different values-- two or three anyway, I think-- when you purchase the Subtank. After this-- they are wear parts and have to be periodically replaced-- they will have to be purchased separately. If you are smart and willing to order ahead, these can be bought online more cheaply than in your local shop. You might, however, want to visit the local shop and buy any coils for the tank that are not included in the purchase so you can try them to see which you like best. This might change with different e-liquids, too. Coils are generally sold in packs of 5, and run 15-20 dollars per pack. One of the reasons people start rebuilding is it's much cheaper than new coils. One must acquire tools, and a stock of wire and wick material, but once one has you can make coils for a year or more on a tiny supply of material, adding only your own labor. SAFETY NOTE: if you are going to build coils, you MUST use an ohmmeter to check for shorts in your build. A short is very bad news. It can ruin a battery in an instant and might injure you to boot.

There are a lot of little pieces involved in rebuilding. Yes, you take a short piece of wire and wrap it around a mandrel of specific diameter to make the coil. Then the coil is installed on the build deck and tested with the ohmmeter. Then you (usually, depending on wire) test the coil on the mod to make sure it works and is heating evenly. The coil, once cooled again, is wicked by pulling a piece of wick-- usually cotton-- through the center of the coil and cutting/arranging the tails in a manner appropriate to the particular tank. The wick is then primed with juice and tested on the mod to make vapor. The tank is reassembled, tested with the ohmmeter again to see if the reassembly might have shorted it, then filled with juice and vaped. The attached photos are 1) a Kayfun "Russian 91" tank; 2) the tank disassembled for building; 3) the build deck (yes, it's missing a screw) attached to the ohmmeter, which I find is a handy building stand; 4) another close up of the build deck to show a different angle. It sounds complex, and there is a learning curve, but it isn't all that hard to do once you get the hang of it.

You are mistaken about the EVIC VT loking like you eGo One. The one I meant is this one. It's a nice piece of gear. View attachment 477040 View attachment 477041 View attachment 477042 View attachment 477043

I'm oohing and awing like a kid over here lol. Yes it is slightly on the convoluted side - but also extremely informative.
It seems learning to rebuild tanks and build coils is the logical way to go. I would simply need someone to learn from on the spot. Right now I'de take more of the lazy man's approach and purchase the coils separately but it would be great to have someone to learn rebuilding from in the long run.

The reason I said the evic looks like the ego one is because the tank they advertise it with looks exactly like the ego one tank especially the way the glass on the tank is expressed.

thanks again. that was very generous of you. you are the man for sure

 

[suprtrkr]

I'm oohing and awing like a kid over here lol. Yes it is slightly on the convoluted side - but also extremely informative.
It seems learning to rebuild tanks and build coils is the logical way to go. I would simply need someone to learn from on the spot. Right now I'de take more of the lazy man's approach and purchase the coils separately but it would be great to have someone to learn rebuilding from in the long run.

The reason I said the evic looks like the ego one is because the tank they advertise it with looks exactly like the ego one tank especially the way the glass on the tank is expressed.

thanks again. that was very generous of you. you are the man for sure

Any time. One option is to drop by the local B&M. They all build coils and install them. Just hang out, vape, and wait for somebody needing a deck built

 

[gadgetkeith]

if you are looking for a no fuss easy tank

the subtank mini can do the job also

if you dont mind paying for coils then its just unscrew the old one and screw in with a new one it holds a good amount of juice so depending how heavy you vape could last all day or even a couple has good air flow so can accomodate both MTL and STL easy to fill can see juice level and works great

it does not get much simpler than that

the main reasons people mention about rebuilding coils be it for RBA decks or occ coils is for cost efficiency as depending how heavy you vape and the type of juice you use some people can do a coil in a couple of days ,and the second main reason is for custom made coils to enhance vapor and flavor production

you do not need to build if thats for you

best advice is go to your local vape store and see the tanks in person touch them hold them ask all about them tell the person behind the counter what you are looking for in a tank

be it size ,how much juice it holds, are coils easy to swap out, what price are replacement coils ,can it do both MTL and STL ,is it easy to take apart and clean , and is it glass or pastic ,as some juices such as real tangy citrus ones do not like plastic tanks

hope you find a tank or atty that you like

and you will love the coolfire 4 my friend got one for his wife and its realy nice she gets 3 days or so before charging it
i have an innokin mod also the quality is fantastic they are built realy well

 

[DarkVapes]

if ya decide to go for the kanger subtank mini

i would try out both the occ coils it comes with the 0.5 ohm coil installed and has a 1.2 ohm occ coil also and a rebuildable deck and you also get spare o,rings some cotton pad for wicks a small screwdriver for the rebuildable deck spare screws and a couple of 0.5 ohm coils for the build deck also a spare tank glass

for the price you get a realy nice package

once you have tried the occ coils and found out which of them you prefer i recomend buying a spare pack of 5 get the horizontal ones not the new style vertical coils and as you get through them dont throw them out keep them as they are real easy to rebuild and rewick and you will be set for ages the only other thing you will need when you get to start rebuilding is some wire and cotton you use the supplied screwdriver as a jig to wind your new coils around also

its a great tank to start with and the flavor and vapor production is realy good

good luck with what ever you decide to go for

thanks for the info. allot of those things that come bundled with the tank will go unused by me at least initially as I am a complete novice in that area.

I have trouble finding a place to purchase the horizontal coils

are coils sometimes called atomizer heads because I see pictures and they look the same?

 

[suprtrkr]

thanks for the info. allot of those things that come bundled with the tank will go unused by me at least initially as I am a complete novice in that area.

I have trouble finding a place to purchase the horizontal coils

are coils sometimes called atomizer heads because I see pictures and they look the same?

Yes, the can be called atomizer heads, or coil heads. And lot of people order them online.

 

[DarkVapes]

Any time. One option is to drop by the local B&M. They all build coils and install them. Just hang out, vape, and wait for somebody needing a deck built

Replacement Vertical Kanger Subtank OCC Coil - V2 would these be good replacement coils for the subtank mini?