Im still waiting on my Dna boards. Ill probably have to change a ton of stuff once I start. I havent really accounted for wires yet either. Ill post pics of the build process. Ill probably keep the screen folded over the board in any build I choose to do. I would like to keep all buttons...
Ive decided on the rectangular design. Will go with 1/16 wall thickness instead of 1/8. Thought about stainless, but I rather not deal with headaches of cutting stainless with my tool set.
I figured that the lipos would be off by a little. I allowed for .07" discrepency for each battery and wires. Hopefully thats enough.
I have two more designs I worked out with material I have on hand. Aluminum. Sorry about the crude drawings.
Larger width and nearly same height. 4 batteries...
Im thinking shorter and fatter also. I may go cylindrical. The only problem I have with a cylinder is the screen cut out. Seems like it would be harder to deal with. Maybe ill cut 3 tube designs. 2 square and one circular and then decide.
Thanks for your input.
If I go larger than 1in width I could fit the batts behind the dna board. That should reduce the height to 2.5-3 inches. But how wide is the question. I could also go with 1 removeable 18650.
Here is what I came up with. All the sizing is accurate except for the height of the mod and the size of the 510 connector. Im shooting for less than 4 inches. Corners will be rounded. I also may go for a larger fire switch instead of a small tact. Too large?
The spring in the 19 was meant to provide throw and resistance in the switch and not to complete the circuit.
In the 20, the spring is the negative battery contact.
Both mods benefit from a better spring.
A fixed negative contact wouldnt allow all 18350s to screw flush between tube sections with a non adjustable center pin. Also a smaller height 18350 that they didnt account for may not make contact when the tube is in its shortest mode. Even though 18350's should be a certain height as the name...
If no one else does, ill clear out the switch housing. Even if I have to mangle it. 3 units coming my way.
The fact that the internals are brass and maybe copper without it being serviceable is silly.
Those two holes on the sides are perfect.
I may use one as my fire button and uses a...
I love that design, I just dont have the knowledge or hardware at my disposal.
I think I will go with a clear plastic tube from one of my many plastic tanks, and cut it in half to use as window. Ill carve out a black delrin block to house the screen and contour it to the curve of the tube. So...
That would be nice. Only design issues im having with a metal tube is with screen placement and how to mount the screen. These things wouldnt be issues with a flex screen.
Very nice.
I wonder in I can fit all the dna20 internals into the top portion of the sig #20. Find a button similar in size, use the two vent holes in the top as up and down buttons and cut a screen area directly opposite the fire button. Skip the charger and just use replaceable batteries...
Best looking dna 20's ive seen thus far.
Once I can get a 20d chip (not sure where they are available) im going to take a shot at modding a few of my Segelei's into a 20 D mod. Im thinking 3 top sleeves from the number 8 and caps should do it. I would rather purchase a 20d mod, but the retail...
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