I coiled a length of 28 gauge Kanthal A1 wire and clipped my output on to various points to achieve the resistance in the test.
Testing at 7 watts:
1.5 ohm - 3.6v
1.7 ohm - 3.5v
2.0 ohm - 3.7v
2.5 ohm - 4.2v
3.1 ohm - 4.6v
3.5 ohm - 4.9v
5.1 ohm - 6.0v
6.4 ohm - 6.7v
Testing at 20...
This DNA20 screen size is the same viewable area as what I did with the DNA12. What I did with the DNA12 w/ an oLed display is what the DNA20 display is about. Seeing all the data on one screen
Thanks mamu. I was thinking more on the way of using pins to activate the on board tacts but your choice of external tacts would be better being the existing tacts are rather delicate looking. I've used those exact tacts before. I've been looking for about a month now for them in 100g and there...
Thanks Mamu, won't go above 10W for now.
Didn't have a chance to power it up. Been working on other projects.
Have you thought of what to use for the buttons
Thanks BJ. This box has the opening for a USB on the bottom and by making the socket flush with the outside of the box, I am able to stand the box up.
The DNA20 screen is tiny. It is the exact viewable screen size as my MCU/oLed for the DNA mod.
ZMax V2 with choice of RMS or standard Voltage output.
Choice of Wattage or Voltage Adjustment via Menu setting
Li-Po 20C battery
USB Charging
Compact box form
Menu Options:
1.Uu Adjust Voltage or Wattage Up
2.Ud Adjust Voltage or Wattage Down
3.So
S.on = Turns...
3mm is fine. My glass does not go into the tank. It covers the portion of the wick above the tank. but if you decide you would like to insert it into the tank, then you would have to drill out the wick hole. I don't think that is necessary. Works great above.
Just a note, my video was a test...
The Monster mesh is a DID clone. Many vendors sell this same clone under different names and sell replacement o-rings and clear tanks for it. I haven't seen a quartz or pyrex as yet for this tank. You have the metal tank, can't you just measure it?
Also these vendors that sell replacement parts...
I would look for a fuse of a smaller OD. My 250ma is about 4.5mm OD. You need clearance between the top cap and the center post to avoid the coils from touching.
It is a short length that covers the exposed wick and does NOT go into the tank. The 4.5mm is the width which is a bit wide and is difficult to screw on the metal top cap without shorting the coils to the cap and center post. It's just a test. better to use what Dan is using, 3mm tubing.
Just a test.... thanks Dan, your da man.
I used the glass from a 250ma fuse just to see if this would work. It works fantastic and at only 6.64 watts it looks hotter than it is. No more wicking issues and having to tilt the RBA for better wicking.
I'm waiting on a 3mm Pyrex type tube and 2.5mm...
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