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The closest I've ever gotten to a perfect square in plastic is with the drill/file method. Drawing the shape on the plastic with a lead pencil is extremely helpful no matter your method. A set of needle files can be had for under $10, and they work well with most any material. I found the...

I can't recall where I found these and am unsure if they'll help at all, but here you go:

A center punch can help tremendously with wandering holes...also use a very small bit (3/32 or smaller) to drill a pilot hole. Personally I've never been able to create a perfectly squared hole in anything but wood. Then again, the more I try more true they become. A rotary tool is invaluable...

I'll guess from the size a pair of 18500's? Anyway it looks great. As for the mechanical switch, FatDaddyVapes has a switch rebuild kit for the Sigelei #19 that may help out. It's all the way at the bottom of the linked page.

I doubt there would be any adverse effects if you kept it clean. Copper can be toxic, but you would have to ingest a lot to even produce symptoms, a lot as in over the period of many years. Millions of chefs, cooks, moms, etc have been using copper cookware for centuries, and I dare say the...

Not to slam Madvapes, but the transparent boxes they offer are extremely brittle. I had one crack while pre-drilling with a 3/32 bit (never used, not dull). I second the Hammond 1590 series, the are nice. Only issue I have is the fact that they aren't flat on the ends or sides - a little...

Before scrolling down to view the entire picture I thought you'd made an atomizer that dwarfed your AC unit. That would be sick... Nice job by the way, I like the tube style a lot. That site has some really cool stuff...

It is definitely a sickness...I'm seriously considering starting an "MA" support group...Modder's Anonymous will be a non-profit organization, but I will gladly accept donations of any and all electronic junk and/or scrap metal, plastic, handheld toys etc.

From Wikipedia: It will withstand the heat, but it will also transfer it...

They are close enough to have heat transference occur, but I wouldn't worry unless you smell burning wood...by the time that happened your liquid would likely be near boiling and you'd be burning your finger on the switch. If that very unlikely scenario plays out put it down for a few minutes...

This is probably a good way to go, but if you have the skill and equipment to do machining why not make your own anyway? This would ensure the quality was up to your standards every time.

Fasttech carries these top caps. The pin in them is spring loaded. They look pretty good sitting on top of an aluminum or steel enclosure too.

I've only seen them with screw terminals, but you can get them cheaper from here. As for soldering to them, it depends on the screws themselves. If they are zinc plated it will be hard. You could try filling the hole without the screw in it with solder and inserting the wire. That's how I fill...

It will help to an extent. The paint used is more important. For metal or plastic this appliance epoxy spray is really tough. It's really thick though, so more intricate designs may prove difficult. Sadly almost any paint won't last on most plastics no matter what you do. The one above has...

Mine's not as well put together (one of my first mods) as the others, but it works well and has a small footprint. It's made from a car lighter phone charger cord. It's powered by a single 16340. The inside looks hideous I know, but it went from concept to creation in about 20 minutes. The LED's...

I'm all about the tins myself. You can eliminate the rattle for little money and effort - I use toolbox drawer liners. Simply cut to size and glue in place. From there you could add velcro, pockets or whatever.

Because you can is always a very legitimate reason in my book. I want to see the Hydra version...

That would be very nice, brass that is. Copper gets dingy too easily. Or maybe you could do parts in polished aluminum and others brushed... This thing could potentially be a Steampunk fan's wet dream.

Most any rechargeable device (phone, hair trimmers, whatever) is going to use an AC/DC convertor that hits somewhere in the .2a-1a range at around 5v. Any 5v mod you see is around the same, except with higher amperage potential (usually up to 3a). That being said, using one of those adapters...

Breaktru has a how-to for it on his board...