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Sigelei DNA? nice

.. wait I thought the Sig 213 & Fuchai 213 were same? the Fuchai 213 is newer version? edit: I am watching some YT reviews on S 213 & F 213 .. NOPE, do not want. I'll look at the iPV 6x

What atty? What mod? vg/pg ratio?

Shoot .. I was thinking of getting this. I like its compact dual 18650 design. I mainly use my iPV D3 in powermode, and my evic-VT as a backup. I am also considering the eVic VTC Dual, but it is bigger than the Fuchai 213W.

Concerning the black fire button & top toggle .. if you have a broken V1, you can prolly transplant the chrome buttons to a new V2.

Real quick overview of them from Vapor Trail

Not sure where to post this. Testing my Nikon D3200 & 18-55mm VRII lense, 1280x720 @ 59.97 fps, slowed down. iPV D3, Tobeco Velocity, Spaced Dual, NiCr80, 26 ga, 7 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 0.32 ohms:

From what I Googled, the RBA is the same as the SubTank Mini. IMHO, the RBA+ from Kanger has a tight airflow, also the 510 pin is short .. like 1~2mm shorter than the OCCs. I was getting inconsistent readings when I used my STm & RBA because the 510 pin didn't have a good connection. But a...

I just noticed the Puff count & Timer count on mine has round-robined, I have not been using it much for the last 4 months (Xmass gift iPV D3). - Puff: 58,662 (158,661 puffs) - Timer: 5,947 (105,946 seconds)

My builds go from 0.34~0.36 when vaping. They start out at 0.34, and as I use them for days/weeks, they go up to 0.36. I guessing from clean-clean wires, and they get darker from ejuice crud, and usage wear.

I've been using my iPV D3 for 4 months, 99% of the time in VW, and I adore it. My only issue with it, is the +, - buttons have a 2 sec delay when holding them down .. and when it gets going, it goes fast and then faster too quickly.

Same here, I use LG HG2s & Samsung 25R5s in my iPV D3. I build ~0.35 ohms, and vape between 38w - 49w (I usually stay around 43.5w).

My orange/yellow one, the 510 pushes in very slightly (maybe 1mm), and is abit tuff to do so.

I guess I should open them up and check their status. All good, turns on, batt at 90 ish. I forgot how beautiful they are shiny and new.

Nothing fancy .. here is my collection: White - Yellow/Orange - Black

You need to lock the ohms for TC mode (Ni or Ti), and when you remove a atty & put in a different one, of course it will unlock, because it's a new atty. When in TC mode, the atty needs to be locked, because when the power/joules/watts heats the coils, the resistance will rise if it is not locked.

So last night I had a few drinks, and wanted to rebuild on my Tobeco Velocity. I didn't know, but I grabbed the ziplock bag with my TC wires (Ti 26ga, and Ni200 28ga). I didn't take a close look, and assumed it was a my leftovers bag of NiCr80 26ga & NiCr80 28ga. I built Ti 26ga dual 8 wraps...

Welp .. after I tried to clean it with baking soda paste, and let it dry out .. and now it won't charge =[ I want to take it apart, but it's difficult to get the battery out. I don't want to pull to hard on the top piece & wires, in fear of ripping them off. I want to push the battery out...

Well I got 25 of them coming .. if you want a couple, PM me and we can figure out S&H.

Wow! that baking soda stuff worked great on that car battery. I do not have any other issues with other devices charging. But I'll deffo be cleaning all devices & any USB cables with baking solution & tooth brush, just so I know they are clean. I ordered a 25pc set of silicone micro USB dust...