Joyetech Evic VT 60 Watt
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Here is a good guide to the care and feeding of lipos: A Guide to Understanding LiPo Batteries - Roger's Hobby Center - Radio Control (R/C or RC) Cars, Boats, Airplanes, Puzzles, Plastic Models, & Trains - Saginaw, MI
I guess I should open them up and check their status. All good, turns on, batt at 90 ish. I forgot how beautiful they are shiny and new.
Oh nice!
Frankly I never cared for the black one until I saw those pics just now, which is odd because everything else I carry is always black:
I'm at least a little bit jealous now
Quick question; the center pin in the 510 connection on the VT should be going down when pressed on it, right?
If yes then mine seems stuck at the bottom, does anyone have a tip on how to free it again perhaps or do I have to send this back in under warranty?
I tried grabbing it with my finest tipped tweezers but I can't get a grip on it.
It still works fine with my Toptank but I got a new atomizer today (EhPro Bachelor) and it won't connect (it just says 'no atomizer' on the display).
When comparing the threads on my Toptank and Bachelor the threads on the Bachelor are about a mm shorter so I assume that's the cause.
If yes then mine seems stuck at the bottom, does anyone have a tip on how to free it again perhaps or do I have to send this back in under warranty?
I tried grabbing it with my finest tipped tweezers but I can't get a grip on it.
It still works fine with my Toptank but I got a new atomizer today (EhPro Bachelor) and it won't connect (it just says 'no atomizer' on the display).
When comparing the threads on my Toptank and Bachelor the threads on the Bachelor are about a mm shorter so I assume that's the cause.
I have no trouble making a connection with my 2 Bachelor tanks on either of my Evic Vt's.
And yes, these have a "spring loaded 510" and should move if depressed.
I do have issues with connection on my Geekvape 521 Tab; I usually use a small screwdriver and gently pushed down on it or slightly pry it up and then it makes contact.
And yes, these have a "spring loaded 510" and should move if depressed.
I do have issues with connection on my Geekvape 521 Tab; I usually use a small screwdriver and gently pushed down on it or slightly pry it up and then it makes contact.
I did get it to work finally but not like it should; I pulled out the center pin of the Bachelor and stuck a tiny piece of copper in the hole before I placed the center pin back so it protrudes more now.
The tank sits a mm or two above the Evic now but at least I can try it out for a little bit before I'll return it. It's eating it's own o-rings too so I suspect there's something wrong with mine (see my post in the Bachelor thread for more details if you're curious please).
I tried prying with a little screwdriver and I do see the pin on the Evic's 510 move from side to side a bit but it won't come up any further and it doesn't seem to go down when I push it neither.
Is it suppose to protrude from the black insulator around it or does it sit fairly flush with it on yours, and how much force does it take to push down and how much travel is there suppose to be be in it if you don't mind checking?
when you use Innokin products, one gets used to this 'center-pin' syndrome...
if you think you wanna mess with it (before/if you send it back) maybe try this:
some simple lube oil and the cool tool to get in there is a fish hook (strong small curved)
you do have fish hooks in Netherlands ?
good luck
Thanks for the feedback
when you use Innokin products, one gets used to this 'center-pin' syndrome...
if you think you wanna mess with it (before/if you send it back) maybe try this:
some simple lube oil and the cool tool to get in there is a fish hook (strong small curved)
View attachment 548500
you do have fish hooks in Netherlands ?
good luck
I really don't want to send it back as I have no replacement. I don't think I can go back to my Ego-CC for more then an hour or so now anyways
But it isn't moving so I'll try playing with it some more or just live with it (I don't mind it too much now that I know I can rig up the pins in RTA's and still get it working if needed be).
But good idea, don't know why I didn't think to lube it up first. Normally Balistol fixes anything that won't be mended by duct-tape or tie-rips so I'm just gonna spray it with that a little and see what happens.
And low and behold, we do have fish-hooks in the Netherlands!
You need a permit to use them like with everything else over here, but I do enjoy fishing every now and then and have a wide variety of sizes in stock. How would I use one of those on my 510 pin? Shove a small one in there all the way until you got the hook part underneath it and then pull it up or something?
It's spring loaded, but with very little movement. Chances are that you won't get a replacement as Joyetech voids the warranty if atties with too long 510 pins are used :-(
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
The pin barely moves without extraneous pressure. But mine sits up above the seal. I heard a couple reports about this mate up but I had no issue. I'm guessing one or the other isn't correct.. My bachelor pin sticks out a lot. Close to the hole head of the pin, guessing yours was pressed in deeper.
I'm a little curious now as to what would qualify as 'too long' but I guess it doesn't matter since I'm not sending it anywhere. I may have screwed the Toptank in too tight when I just got it though, not sure.
The one n my VT sits slightly below the black insulator that surrounds it and the pin on my Bachelor was almost flush with the part with the threads on it. Odd that there's such a difference between Bachelors, but I guess it doesn't matter anymore since I'm returning that piece of crap.
Also, I just saw this!
It doesn't match neither of my bikes plus I prefer full face helmets, but I'm still tempted to get it, lol
Check Daniel from Djlsb vapes' webpage. He recently uploaded information about the lengths of the 510 pins on the atties and the depth and travel of 510 connectors on mods.I'm a little curious now as to what would qualify as 'too long' but I guess it doesn't matter since I'm not sending it anywhere. I may have screwed the Toptank in too tight when I just got it though, not sure.
The one n my VT sits slightly below the black insulator that surrounds it and the pin on my Bachelor was almost flush with the part with the threads on it. Odd that there's such a difference between Bachelors, but I guess it doesn't matter anymore since I'm returning that piece of crap.
Also, I just saw this!
It doesn't match neither of my bikes plus I prefer full face helmets, but I'm still tempted to get it, lol
Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
Interesting, bookmarked for future reference, thanks!
I just noticed the Puff count & Timer count on mine has round-robined, I have not been using it much for the last 4 months (Xmass gift iPV D3).
- Puff: 58,662 (158,661 puffs)
- Timer: 5,947 (105,946 seconds)
- Puff: 58,662 (158,661 puffs)
- Timer: 5,947 (105,946 seconds)
I bought an evic VT almost a year ago. The positive 510 contact in mine has always been stuck, despite literature online claiming it is spring-loaded. If you review the thread, it was a relatively common issue. No amount of poking/prying has fixed it.
Although it adds a little height to the mod, if I want to use an atty that has a positive 510 that isn't quite long enough, I'll use a Kepler 510 heatsink since it has a two-way telescopic positive on its 510.
Although it adds a little height to the mod, if I want to use an atty that has a positive 510 that isn't quite long enough, I'll use a Kepler 510 heatsink since it has a two-way telescopic positive on its 510.
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