◙ Li’l PINCH (←thang) ◙ pdib (←maker) ◙ not sayin’ (←just sayin’) ◙ shuh-ZAM! (←hyperbole)
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I dunno, dogman, that Cocobolo of Rossum's is some crazy dense stuff. It's one of the toughest woods I've used.
good to know
Kay, kids, remember, this is all 1st coat stuff. These mods is still . . . . ..
Desert Ironwood Burl. . . .
OMG that is amazing!!!!!
DRIP TIPS:
A few of you in this batch have mentioned setting aside material for driptips. As you may know, one of our favorite driptip makers is scheduled for a wee bit o' major back surgery. It doesn't create a super tight timeline; nevertheless, please let me know if you'd want a pre-surgery DT (or more), so that I might facilitate sooner rather than later.
Meaning: PM me if you have some ideas about driptips. Now's the time to start the ball rolling. (Antarctic birds needn't bother . . .. we good)
So, on the desert ironwood, generally speaking, for people who may be interested in using that material for a Pinch . .. .
I wouldn't say, yet, that this material is a sure bet, and I'll tell you why. I had two pieces in the shop for this batch, and only one seemed a viable candidate. The main difference being that the "good" one was a burl, whereas the one that was too iffy was straight-grain. The sum total of my experience is in these two pieces of wood; so it ain't much and I'll try not to generalize. I found that the straight-grain piece was weak in the adhesion between the wood fibers (so, prone to cracking, checking, splitting, snapping). It's a very hard wood that proves delicate/fragile on this small but demanding scale of "mod". Not so much in the glasslike/brittle category as the splitty/cracky category.
And/but/so if the grain pattern is chaotic, then there aren't distinct lines of this weakness (as in all lined up, shoulder to shoulder, and pointing in the same direction). Also, the burl seems to be almost a "compression", wherein the chaotic fibers are tightly bound together, and there's not so much of that roomy "in-between" space. And this is true of a lot of the woods we use. The burl seems always stronger and more tenacious, and not weak in any one particular plane.
Another characteristic that I noticed while working with this wood was that, on a very small wee scale (not microscopic, but tiny), when machined to a very crisp edge or corner, it seemed a bit crumbley/flakey betimes. That weakness only presented on a sand-grain level/size, and the issue disappeared with the lightest easing of the edge. So, I'm hopeful that this characteristic is lost in the larger mass of the wood (that weensy crumbles don't translate to anything in the physics of the normal scale). My gut tells me it's limited to the world of gnats' ninnies. Kind of like how the strength of an atomic bond means nothing to a sledge hammer and a plate of butter in August. (only . . . switch it around . .. . see?
)
For me, I'd really like to see specific Ironwood Burls before someone buys to send to me. From what I've seen, the distinction (how it grows) between "burl" → "figured" → "straight" isn't clear cut.
For y'all, I would treat this as a bit of a question mark, and a bit of a risk until we've put some track time on a couple mods. The reason we went ahead with this one mod is because it seems, in all likelihood, that it will be a winner. But still, I can't say for sure.
Lastly, another factor that I have to hold off on speaking to until tomorrow is stabilization. The piece we used for Rattler's mod was labeled as "stabilized". However, when I go back and look at the source, I'm not seeing that distinction made (yea or nay) on any of the other pieces. So, I'll call them tomorrow and confirm. IF this piece was stabilized, it would be another factor that may/would have contributed to its viability. If it was labelled "stabilized" by error, we needn't concern ourselves with that as a precondition for shopping Ironwood.
EDIT: OK, so I inquired, and it was a labeling error. They do not stabilize their Ironwood. I talked for a while with him (this guy in Arizona, who sells Ironwood), and the net/net is that I would be careful to buy ironwood from a source with experience specifically with preparing (properly drying) ironwood. If a piece is checked or cracked from the drying process, we should skip it. (this is something we watch for with all woods; but seems more critical here)
I wouldn't say, yet, that this material is a sure bet, and I'll tell you why. I had two pieces in the shop for this batch, and only one seemed a viable candidate. The main difference being that the "good" one was a burl, whereas the one that was too iffy was straight-grain. The sum total of my experience is in these two pieces of wood; so it ain't much and I'll try not to generalize. I found that the straight-grain piece was weak in the adhesion between the wood fibers (so, prone to cracking, checking, splitting, snapping). It's a very hard wood that proves delicate/fragile on this small but demanding scale of "mod". Not so much in the glasslike/brittle category as the splitty/cracky category.
And/but/so if the grain pattern is chaotic, then there aren't distinct lines of this weakness (as in all lined up, shoulder to shoulder, and pointing in the same direction). Also, the burl seems to be almost a "compression", wherein the chaotic fibers are tightly bound together, and there's not so much of that roomy "in-between" space. And this is true of a lot of the woods we use. The burl seems always stronger and more tenacious, and not weak in any one particular plane.
Another characteristic that I noticed while working with this wood was that, on a very small wee scale (not microscopic, but tiny), when machined to a very crisp edge or corner, it seemed a bit crumbley/flakey betimes. That weakness only presented on a sand-grain level/size, and the issue disappeared with the lightest easing of the edge. So, I'm hopeful that this characteristic is lost in the larger mass of the wood (that weensy crumbles don't translate to anything in the physics of the normal scale). My gut tells me it's limited to the world of gnats' ninnies. Kind of like how the strength of an atomic bond means nothing to a sledge hammer and a plate of butter in August. (only . . . switch it around . .. . see?
)For me, I'd really like to see specific Ironwood Burls before someone buys to send to me. From what I've seen, the distinction (how it grows) between "burl" → "figured" → "straight" isn't clear cut.
For y'all, I would treat this as a bit of a question mark, and a bit of a risk until we've put some track time on a couple mods. The reason we went ahead with this one mod is because it seems, in all likelihood, that it will be a winner. But still, I can't say for sure.
Lastly, another factor that I have to hold off on speaking to until tomorrow is stabilization. The piece we used for Rattler's mod was labeled as "stabilized". However, when I go back and look at the source, I'm not seeing that distinction made (yea or nay) on any of the other pieces. So, I'll call them tomorrow and confirm. IF this piece was stabilized, it would be another factor that may/would have contributed to its viability. If it was labelled "stabilized" by error, we needn't concern ourselves with that as a precondition for shopping Ironwood.
EDIT: OK, so I inquired, and it was a labeling error. They do not stabilize their Ironwood. I talked for a while with him (this guy in Arizona, who sells Ironwood), and the net/net is that I would be careful to buy ironwood from a source with experience specifically with preparing (properly drying) ironwood. If a piece is checked or cracked from the drying process, we should skip it. (this is something we watch for with all woods; but seems more critical here)
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I have had communication with our favorite driptip maker on mine. He thought you were going to send a chunk in the last package he got. He is aware (as I also mentioned to you) that I wanted one and we have discussed exactly what style. However, that being said, I have no issue with waiting as I am sure he has a lot of personal things to get completed before his downtime. I went through back surgery 3 weeks ago today and I am glad I got a lot of personal stuff done before.
I'll be sending it along with the others. I had made an early inquiry about yours because I wanted to make sure I sent the right size. That might have thrown him off.
He is just worrying he won't get things done in time and someone will get left having to wait. I can understand that!
So good to know that there's such caring people looking out for him. I want nothing but the best for him too. To that end, I had inquired about scheduling, workload, downtime and stress and comfort levels. I'm working off the schedule that he communicated to me as would work fine for him.
I had a hunch that you had already discussed things with him
So, on the desert ironwood, generally speaking, for people who may be interested in using that material for a Pinch . .. .
I wouldn't say, yet, that this material is a sure bet, and I'll tell you why. I had two pieces in the shop for this batch, and only one seemed a viable candidate. The main difference being that the "good" one was a burl, whereas the one that was too iffy was straight-grain. The sum total of my experience is in these two pieces of wood; so it ain't much and I'll try not to generalize. I found that the straight-grain piece was weak in the adhesion between the wood fibers (so, prone to cracking, checking, splitting, snapping). It's a very hard wood that proves delicate/fragile on this small but demanding scale of "mod". Not so much in the glasslike/brittle category as the splitty/cracky category.
And/but/so if the grain pattern is chaotic, then there aren't distinct lines of this weakness (as in all lined up, shoulder to shoulder, and pointing in the same direction). Also, the burl seems to be almost a "compression", wherein the chaotic fibers are tightly bound together, and there's not so much of that roomy "in-between" space. And this is true of a lot of the woods we use. The burl seems always stronger and more tenacious, and not weak in any one particular plane.
Another characteristic that I noticed while working with this wood was that, on a very small wee scale (not microscopic, but tiny), when machined to a very crisp edge or corner, it seemed a bit crumbley/flakey betimes. That weakness only presented on a sand-grain level/size, and the issue disappeared with the lightest easing of the edge. So, I'm hopeful that this characteristic is lost in the larger mass of the wood (that weensy crumbles don't translate to anything in the physics of the normal scale). My gut tells me it's limited to the world of gnats' ninnies. Kind of like how the strength of an atomic bond means nothing to a sledge hammer and a plate of butter in August. (only . . . switch it around . .. . see?
For me, I'd really like to see specific Ironwood Burls before someone buys to send to me. From what I've seen, the distinction (how it grows) between "burl" → "figured" → "straight" isn't clear cut.
For y'all, I would treat this as a bit of a question mark, and a bit of a risk until we've put some track time on a couple mods. The reason we went ahead with this one mod is because it seems, in all likelihood, that it will be a winner. But still, I can't say for sure.
Lastly, another factor that I have to hold off on speaking to until tomorrow is stabilization. The piece we used for Rattler's mod was labeled as "stabilized". However, when I go back and look at the source, I'm not seeing that distinction made (yea or nay) on any of the other pieces. So, I'll call them tomorrow and confirm. IF this piece was stabilized, it would be another factor that may/would have contributed to its viability. If it was labelled "stabilized" by error, we needn't concern ourselves with that as a precondition for shopping Ironwood.
Thanks for all this. When I saw that mod I went directly to the source site and . . . wow! So many choices with so many unique pieces. I had several picked out and was thinking about narrowing it down to one when I wondered about all the above. This made me think to hold off until my turn nears and conversate with you about any choices I had lined up.
Looking forward to hearing how this wood works out. It's beautiful - at least after you've worked your bee magic all over it.
Kay, kids, remember, this is all 1st coat stuff. These mods is still . . . . ..
Desert Ironwood Burl. . . .
Heads up guys and gals
Froggy's been choppin' wood again and got a great batch of Buckeye in the store
EDIT: He'll be adding the bulk of the stock tonite
Froggy's been choppin' wood again and got a great batch of Buckeye in the store
EDIT: He'll be adding the bulk of the stock tonite
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or will do soon? 
From what I've seen there, there seems to be a steady supply and always a big selection, it seems. So, yeah, no need to treat it like truffles, as best as I can tell.
I edited my post above, regarding stabilized/not Ironwood. (for those of us who only go forward . . . ↓)
So, what I know so far is ↑ this, and that my above observations (burl/figured, not straight) apply all the more.
So, what I know so far is ↑ this, and that my above observations (burl/figured, not straight) apply all the more.
Heads up guys and gals
Froggy's been choppin' wood again and got a great batch of Buckeye in the store
EDIT: He'll be adding the bulk of the stock tonite
And I really like that stuff, too!
Ima hold off buyin' fancy wood 'til my number comes near. For all I know, pdib will have yet another new & improved mod with different dimensional requirements. Which may not be all that long after all. @pdib You're really flying through the batches with this Li'l Pinch!
Working nights sucks!
I guess I didn't get up early enough, I go froggy wood shopping and stuff is disappearing out of my cart faster than I can pay for it.
I'm sure glad we have the Bee watching out for us!
I guess I didn't get up early enough, I go froggy wood shopping and stuff is disappearing out of my cart faster than I can pay for it.
I'm sure glad we have the Bee watching out for us!
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