◙ Li’l PINCH (←thang) ◙ pdib (←maker) ◙ not sayin’ (←just sayin’) ◙ shuh-ZAM! (←hyperbole)

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CaptSteve

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Wonder if that's where they got the idea from :lol:

81xGR1L2P6L._SX425_.jpg
 

supertrunker

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i have a clt v1 - and in that i just used to use plain 26g. RxW is what i use to wick this stuff.

I don't find it to be too bad for power consumption once they get broken in - even steam engine reckons you can ignore the effect and resistance of the thinner wire because on a Clapton all it does is heat up from the inner core.
The resistance readings bear this out, because it's no different to making say, a single 26g coil.

There's more metal to heat sure, so it'll take a little longer to get it red hot and so on on a mech perhaps, but you also realise it takes some time to cool down, so you can still inhale after you release the fire button.

You get used to it! :D

T
 

supertrunker

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Don't you find that once the battery drops below 3.8v the vape goes south as well? I tried dual claptons in my old Odin and never enjoyed them on a mech


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I normally find i change batteries at about 3.6v and that equates to about 5 ml of juice. i've not asked HRH to compare performance of mods, but i think i can say that if i'm comparing a Pinch and a Tmod and a CC, they are really about the same in terms of performance.

The performance of my Reos is difficult to gauge; they are not fitted with the latest connectors and they are all modified in some way, but they deal with the power too.

What i find is the difference in the maintenance time and when i need to do it. Less is better.

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supertrunker

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Here's 2 i just dry burned.





And this is the wire. 26 coated with 32. i do this once every 3 months and a foot of it is more than enough.



The Theta on there btw Aal, is where i am calculating the perfect angle to hold the 32g relative to the 26 and it's not quite Pythagorean. And i'm full of it!

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CaptSteve

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oh thats who these are from,yeah ceramic/vaping doesnt mix id say.but whadda i know.
No the picture I posted Rick is of the new stainless notched coils. They're basically slotted stainless sheet coils
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supertrunker

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No the picture I posted Rick is of the new stainless notched coils. They're basically slotted stainless sheet coils
images
Where i'm almost interested in those is whether the connecting wires are non-resistance wires.

So, i mean solid silver to isolate the shaver as the heating coil. The way the legs are bent suggests to me a vertical coil, but i'm a noob and i thought you just wrapped a bit of old electrical wire around a nail to get a decent vape!
Pair that with 100% VG and Bob's your uncle!

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Nautilusfan

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Here's 2 i just dry burned.





And this is the wire. 26 coated with 32. i do this once every 3 months and a foot of it is more than enough.



The Theta on there btw Aal, is where i am calculating the perfect angle to hold the 32g relative to the 26 and it's not quite Pythagorean. And i'm full of it!

T
On those 26 ga cores are you doing single or doubles??
 

supertrunker

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On those 26 ga cores are you doing single or doubles??

That is a fused Clapton which is 2x 26g then wrapped in 32. The wire tends to twist as it's made and it's a royal pita to flatten it out, but to get it to wrap nicely, that's what has to happen.

There's a guy called Squidoode that makes these builds well. Some are for the foolhardy only.



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TamiPac

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Where i'm almost interested in those is whether the connecting wires are non-resistance wires.

So, i mean solid silver to isolate the shaver as the heating coil. The way the legs are bent suggests to me a vertical coil, but i'm a noob and i thought you just wrapped a bit of old electrical wire around a nail to get a decent vape!
Pair that with 100% VG and Bob's your uncle!

T
I don't like non resistance wire anymore.
 
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