2 probs: battery dead and what materials to use for my first rda

[genevieve]

1: well, my batteries have been giving me no/very little probs. i've a vamo 2, so it pretty much does all the wrok for me. and i always take it off the charger just before its done charging (when the light is still yellow and not green yet) however, today all of a sudden, my batteries have been lasting just an hour or less. and they read 3.7 v just after finishing charging (i even tried letting them sit on the charger til green) have my batteries suddenly reached the end of their lifetime? is my charger faulty?

2: i've decided on the igo-l for my frist rda. what materials (wire, silica, etc) would you recommend for my first venture into rebuilding?

as always, any and all input is MUCH appreciated. love you guys....for real

 

[Pdsf]

1. Batteries die. As good as they can be there's a number of things that kill em. Backups are your best bet it's just safer to swap them out when there not working right.
2. Igo l is perfect for first tries its a great rda. Decide what ohm you like vaping and get some kanthal wire that'll get you there (28g , 32g). Silica is perfect too get some skills and experiment with different wicks later

Hope that helps a lil

 

[SilverZero]

I just bought the IGO-L as my first rebuildable and I'm loving it. Just as a guideline for you, I bought 3mm silica wick and 32ga Kanthal for it; with a 4/3 wrap I was able to get exactly 2 ohms, and with a 5/4 wrap I got 2.4 ohms.

The 3mm wick is working really well in the IGO-L for me, and it's also the perfect size wick to recoil my Protank and EVODs; I get zero leaking and no dry hits at all; much better performance than the stock coils.

 

[Ryedan]

1: well, my batteries have been giving me no/very little probs. i've a vamo 2, so it pretty much does all the wrok for me. and i always take it off the charger just before its done charging (when the light is still yellow and not green yet) however, today all of a sudden, my batteries have been lasting just an hour or less. and they read 3.7 v just after finishing charging (i even tried letting them sit on the charger til green) have my batteries suddenly reached the end of their lifetime? is my charger faulty?

I see your ECF join date is in June, but just in case, about how many charge/discharge cycles are on these batteries? 2 batteries? 18350? Are you stacking them in the Vamo? How much vape time did you used to get?

So, both batteries are reading 3.7 V when the charger says they are charged?

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Not fully charging is what kills them

How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University

I recommend you go thru that site...everyrone

What you thought you knew about Li Ion...you might not have

 

[Ryedan]

WarHawk-AVG, have a look at table #4 on the page you linked to.

Also, look at the % of charge for the different voltages. At 3.9 V it's 50%. At 3.7 V it's way less than that.

 

[SirSteve]

Just curious, what brand of batteries are they, how long have you had them, what kind of charger, what type of batteries, (IMR, protected etc). And like someone else asked, how many times have they been recharged.

Odd that more than one battery would pick the same day to behave this way, makes me wonder if the charger is the culprit.

SilverZero has some good advice on what to use for your new rebuildable. Best of luck.

 

[genevieve]

I just bought the IGO-L as my first rebuildable and I'm loving it. Just as a guideline for you, I bought 3mm silica wick and 32ga Kanthal for it; with a 4/3 wrap I was able to get exactly 2 ohms, and with a 5/4 wrap I got 2.4 ohms.

The 3mm wick is working really well in the IGO-L for me, and it's also the perfect size wick to recoil my Protank and EVODs; I get zero leaking and no dry hits at all; much better performance than the stock coils.

What is a 4/3 and a 5/4 wrap?

 

[genevieve]

Not fully charging is what kills them

How to Prolong Lithium-based Batteries - Battery University

I recommend you go thru that site...everyrone

What you thought you knew about Li Ion...you might not have

I've always heard it's BETTER for the batteries to not let them reach a full charge, to take them off the charger just before that.

 

[genevieve]

Just curious, what brand of batteries are they, how long have you had them, what kind of charger, what type of batteries, (IMR, protected etc). And like someone else asked, how many times have they been recharged.

Odd that more than one battery would pick the same day to behave this way, makes me wonder if the charger is the culprit.

SilverZero has some good advice on what to use for your new rebuildable. Best of luck.

I've had the batteries for about 2 months now. They are aw imr. I have 18350's and a 18650. However, I've never stacked them. The box they came in said "e fest". Not sure if that's the brand name tho.

The charger is a trust fire.

 

[r77r7r]

I've always heard it's BETTER for the batteries to not let them reach a full charge, to take them off the charger just before that.[/QUOTE

EVERYBODY likes a fully charged battery.

People will argue tho about how far to run them down b4 putting on charger tho.

 

[SilverZero]

What is a 4/3 and a 5/4 wrap?

The 4/3 just means that the way that I wrapped the coil it appears to have 4 wraps from one side, but if I turn the coil around and look at it from the side where the leads extend from it it will only appear to have three. 5/4 is the same but with one more wrap.

In order to get a full four wraps the leads would need to extend from the coil in opposite directions, which doesn't work with most rebuildables. So 4/3 is basically 3 1/2 wraps.

Once you create your first coil you'll be able to see what that means.

 

[Jazzi Mike]

You should probably get 32 gauge Kanthal for your first rebuildable. That is the magic guage when it comes to proper resistance for atomizers. It works well for resistances of around 1.7 ohms to 2.5 ohms, which is what most of the stock attys you buy are anyway.

The 3mm Silica wick is a pretty good starting point. Ekowool has a lot of fans as well, but the sizing of Ekowool is based on the inner diameter, so you want to buy 1 mm less than the silica that you would use, i.e. 2mm Ekowool = 3mm Silica.

 

[genevieve]

You should probably get 32 gauge Kanthal for your first rebuildable. That is the magic guage when it comes to proper resistance for atomizers. It works well for resistances of around 1.7 ohms to 2.5 ohms, which is what most of the stock attys you buy are anyway.

The 3mm Silica wick is a pretty good starting point. Ekowool has a lot of fans as well, but the sizing of Ekowool is based on the inner diameter, so you want to buy 1 mm less than the silica that you would use, i.e. 2mm Ekowool = 3mm Silica.

Great...thanks! I really appreciate the info. Really breaking it down for me helps so much as a noob, cuz now i know exactly what to order. so, thank you.

can you tell me why people may prefer the ekowool over the silica? and is it as easy to work with as a beginner?

thank you again for your help

 

[genevieve]

You should probably get 32 gauge Kanthal for your first rebuildable. That is the magic guage when it comes to proper resistance for atomizers. It works well for resistances of around 1.7 ohms to 2.5 ohms, which is what most of the stock attys you buy are anyway.

The 3mm Silica wick is a pretty good starting point. Ekowool has a lot of fans as well, but the sizing of Ekowool is based on the inner diameter, so you want to buy 1 mm less than the silica that you would use, i.e. 2mm Ekowool = 3mm Silica.

Great...thanks! I really appreciate the info. Really breaking it down for me helps so much as a noob, cuz now i know exactly what to order. so, thank you.

can you tell me why people may prefer the ekowool over the silica? and is it as easy to work with as a beginner?

thank you again for your help

 

[SonHouse]

If you have a TR-1, it has a switch that switches modes and how high it'll charge the battery. See if the switch got flipped.