2 questions.

[Bahnzo]

I'm about to jump in the mod-making pool. I'm going to start out basic and just make a 3.7 nico-stick to get the hang of things.

My sweet spot right now is a Riva with a LR atty on it. Do I need a more powerful switch for LR atty use? I have a 12 Volt, 2 amp switch.

Also, I've read that the Riva/Ego's don't really put out 3.7v but a bit less...3.2v or so? If I find that 3.7 with the LR atty is more than I want, is there a way I could put a resistor (or is it a capacitor) in to slightly reduce it?

Thanks!!

 

[Lab]

you would need a resistor..

capacitors store a charge to be released fast.. like in a disposable camera flash.. they also or nice for making cheap homemade stun guns..

 

[jj2]

The buttons have been the biggest headache and, so far, it's been a shot in the dark. I've tried several types and usually buy several at a time. In all cases some last, some don't.

I haven't used a LR yet. I also don't use resistors or whatever in my nicosticks because they are just 3.7.

Edit: Make sure you use protected batteries.

 

[Bahnzo]

you would need a resistor..

capacitors store a charge to be released fast.. like in a disposable camera flash.. they also or nice for making cheap homemade stun guns..

Ok, then I'm going to show my ignorance even more and ask how to calculate what resistor I need. IE: If I want to drop it .1v then what type do I need. And where does it go?

The buttons have been the biggest headache and, so far, it's been a shot in the dark. I've tried several types and usually buy several at a time. In all cases some last, some don't.
Edit: Make sure you use protected batteries.

Ok, so go with what I've got and see what happens huh? All my batts are protected as well.

 

[Matt79jd]

Figure out how many ohms your arty has and then google ohm law calculation and find how much amps. This will be the bare minimum requirement for your switch. There are several others who have used 50ma switches with a 1.5A circuit. It will work but not for long. Mine worked for one battery cycle at 1.565A. If I were you I would think about using a low dropout voltage regulator with a control pin rated at what you need. Similar to the one on madvapes.

 

[duby]

A 2amp switch with one 14500 should be fine.
If you've never tried any mods other than the ego, i would suggest skipping the resistor for now. Give it a try and you can always add one later.
You'll need a very small resistor to drop it only 0.5 volts. You can also try a diode (not LED). You can find one with a 0.6 or 0.4 voltage drop.
0.1V drop is going to be tough particularly with the variance in atomizers.

 

[WillyB]

I'm about to jump in the mod-making pool. I'm going to start out basic and just make a 3.7 nico-stick to get the hang of things.

My sweet spot right now is a Riva with a LR atty on it. Do I need a more powerful switch for LR atty use? I have a 12 Volt, 2 amp switch.

Also, I've read that the Riva/Ego's don't really put out 3.7v but a bit less...3.2v or so? If I find that 3.7 with the LR atty is more than I want, is there a way I could put a resistor (or is it a capacitor) in to slightly reduce it?

Thanks!!

I don't think I've seen "12 Volt(DC), 2 amp switches" readily available that aren't really large and expensive.

Inexpensive switches rarely even list a DC rating.

 

[Bahnzo]

I don't think I've seen "12 Volt(DC), 2 amp switches" readily available that aren't really large and expensive.

Inexpensive switches rarely even list a DC rating.

Push Button Switch -- Red

is what I got, and just copied what they listed in the item description.

 

[Bahnzo]

Figure out how many ohms your arty has and then google ohm law calculation and find how much amps. This will be the bare minimum requirement for your switch.

Thanks, that's some good info. I put in the numbers and a 2amp switch seems so be ok......2.05556 was the number I got at 3.7v and 1.8ohms.

 

[Matt79jd]

Those switches are awesome. When i find the smallest one out there i will let you know because i have been searching for days.

 

[5cardstud]

I burnt so many of those same ones I got tired of replacing them. The only ones I've ever had hold up were the 125 volt switches. The one I got now is wierd but it hasn't missed a click and it does click when I push it. But I'm using 5 volts.

 

[AttyPops]

Correct me if I'm wrong here... but it's the power dissipation that counts the most... So 2 amps at 12 volts is 24 watts, for example. And .5 amps at 125 volts is 62.5 watts. So in this example, the .5 amp switch is better than the 2 amp switch.

Ya? Stupid way to rate switches... amps. Bah. Just like voltage, vaping and atties. Light bulbs, on the other hand, are rated by watts. Someone was thinking.

 

[WillyB]

Correct me if I'm wrong here... but it's the power dissipation that counts the most... So 2 amps at 12 volts is 24 watts, for example. And .5 amps at 125 volts is 62.5 watts. So in this example, the .5 amp switch is better than the 2 amp switch.

Ya? Stupid way to rate switches... amps. Bah. Just like voltage, vaping and atties. Light bulbs, on the other hand, are rated by watts. Someone was thinking.

Well I don't think it's quite that simple. DC current is harder on switch contacts than AC which basically 'zeros' twice a cycle, ending the arcing quickly. And as I've said cheap switches never list DC ratings. Finally I doubt that red switch is actually rated at 2A@12VDC anyway.

I'd take this 2A DC pushbutton switch any day over an unmarked, supposedly 3A-5A@120VAC $1 item.

Digi-Key - EG4722-ND (Manufacturer - PV5S64011)

 

[Rocketman]

here's one way to think about voltage, current and little switches.

When a switch is OFF, the open circuit voltage appears across the contacts.
A 125, 250, or 600 volt AC rating indicates the "break circuit rating" and also includes insulation properties that aren't necessary for low voltage switches.
A 125 volt AC, 1/2 amp switch will switch 1/2 amp at 125 volts and probably not short out and shock you. Nice.

When the switch is on (hopefully low resistance) and conducting current, the switch contacts don't know how much voltage is being supplied. It only sees the voltage dropped from one contact to the other (very low voltage). If you pass a lot of current through a set of itty bitty contacts that aren't rated to pass that much current, the contact resistance will dissipate heat. This will overheat the contacts, and possibly the insulating material (plastic?).
At 5 volts and 2 amps, the contacts may burn up and the switch quit working, but not much shock hazard at 5 volts
With current going through the switch in the same direction all the time (direct current), electro-chemical cleaning of the contacts (happens to some degree with alternating current) may cause contact material migration from one contact to the other.

A 125 volt, 1/2 amp UL rated switch probably has a little "design margin" in the rating. 2 amps worth?
A 125 volt rating isn't necessary for e-cigs. A DC rated switch 32v/2A would be plenty good for e-cig use.

and as a side note, the 50ma switches can be found in Webster's under "Failure Mode"


Rocket

 

[st0nedpenguin]

I went for the tiny C&K switches, I figure any increased cost is probably going to be offset by not needing to hack them out and replace them in a month.

 

[Bahnzo]

I went for the tiny C&K switches, I figure any increased cost is probably going to be offset by not needing to hack them out and replace them in a month.

So besides MadVapes, where are people buying switches? I'd like to get some tiny switches for one mod I want to do, but I can see how having a switch fail is a pain in the ....

Alright. I built my first two mods today...AAx2 box and a AAAx2 box (it's small!) that I found at Radio Shack today...both with parts from MadVapes.

I haven't tried them yet, other than to test they work. Waiting for the epoxy to dry. But they went together pretty well....the toughest part was actually drilling the holes, didn't expect that.

 

[Brad-c]

you would need a resistor..

they also or nice for making cheap homemade stun guns..

could you post a how to?

 

[AttyPops]

Staying on the switches topic (and waaaaay the heck away from the stun one....

Rocketman ... yeah, heat/wattage durability... lots of great points. Agreed with many of your points too WillyB, esp. the better switches will cost more . Your link looks like a good/interesting switch. 5cardstud's point was that he actually used em (the lower cost DC switches) and they failed, but the 125 v switches held up. Hmm.

They all bounce/chatter tho... weather you think of them as AC or DC... (and as you all say DC low voltage is relevant to e-cigs) I wonder if the 125 volt rating on switches assumes AC (they often don't say) they normally just say ".5 amps at 125 volts" or something like that. Tesla made history noting the heat/transmission differences with DC vs AC tho. lol. So if the 125v switches are rated for AC rather than DC.....

I found these... PV6 anti-vandal switch | illuminated anti-vandal | water resistant anti-vandal | www.e-switch.com they look interesting. Site is a good browse for modders. Haven't tried em tho. Often used as elevator buttons and look like they can take a beating. Was looking for metal to put on metal e-cig. Looks interesting.

 

[Brad-c]

Staying on the switches topic (and waaaaay the heck away from the stun one....)

PV6 anti-vandal switch | illuminated anti-vandal | water resistant anti-vandal | www.e-switch.com Looks interesting.

that awesome.. sorry to stray from the topic..

this switch looks like the beginning of a water proof mod...

 

[AttyPops]

Well.... I wouldn't suggest you get any of these near water... don't surf with em dude! The atties are not water proof even if the battery box is sealed!

EDIT:
Also note that many mods include a separate On/Off switch and a "blow out" plug if the battery shorts & fries/vents. Water proofing is tough! Salt water is even more conductive!

If air can get in the atty, the water probably can too. Just my 2 cents worth!

P.S. Brad-C Hope we don't have that drought soon... but stocking up seems like a wise thing to do!

Hope Everyone's mods go well!