25.00 Smokless owl Squonker

[thetrucker]

I think this smokless owl would be considered a mech mod because there are no

controlling electronic circuits--10 second cut off---short protection--low battery warning-

-things like this-----only wires on this are the switch connection and negative connection

on the battery------just my thoughts not necessarily the gospel---hahahahah

 

[Lessifer]

@Lessifer
Nah its definitely not full mech that was misspoken, but was thinking about a reo and thought it maybe used a direct batt connection at the button like it. Their original reo also had hot button issues if you had very low ohm' before they changed the metal contact..

For the purists a "full mech" means no wires, I think they refer to these as "unregulated," for most people it amounts to the same thing. We may want to peruse the reo forums for the old threads about hot buttons and possibly arcing? Maybe some filing or noalox could help?

I am getting the feeling that I need more menthol and more nicotine to give me

a satisfying vape. I find myself vaping constantly---aka Chain Vaping---trying to

get some satisfaction from my juice.

If you have to chain vape the eliquid is not strong enough to satisfy you.

Chain vaping causes --warm buttons---warm batteries--sore fingers-hahahahahah

I don't really know--just an idea that came to me when my wife said

you have that thing in your hand every spare minute...

Many people think I'm crazy because I drip, in the mid to high sub ohm range, with 12mg nic. But, I take 5-10 2-3 second pulls, every hour or two. It's similar to how I smoked, get a nic fix, then put it away for awhile.

I'm a modwomper.

 

[Visus]

It is indeed confusion on whats what in mech land, but ya a full mech is not regulated and uses the full body of the mod as switched negative and the 510 pin is the only thing positive some do reverse this like the reo but most are switched mechanically negative.. Since its a plastic mod its not a full mech like a reo..

The Reo guys solved hot button and v-drop by using a better contact, they offered what was called an upgrade kit for older mods but it comes standard in their new mods.. It was the metals resistance not arc'ing or loose connection. They went to a beryllium gold plated contact -- so for 24 bucks and adding this contact type material someway somehow will make this mod into even a more awesome buy. I think I am gonna buy one been making a bf device in the future but this is too easy to not buy it..... Lots of nice atomizers out there but nothing beats fresh squeezed as us drippers know

 

[Visus]

@thetrucker
I vape constantly I cant vape over 4mg if I do I get the hand shaking and eyes act a lil strange.

I just recently finished some store bought 16mg; I was trying a drill a small screw I couldn't steady my hands to get the drill on the screw. My hands are always steady as a rock but whoa was that 16mg awesome lol.. I still have one more bottle of 16mg to finish I told myself never ever again but so good and they only sell 16mg vanilla, its really good vanilla the best I have tried..
Im taking it easy and not chain vaping it. Hands have stopped shaking and vaping all day, just about every minute has returned so ya it is nic mg that satisfies us but it also can be detrimental.. Its nots so bad if I vape above 2ohms but comeon thats kiddie vaping to me now cannot believe it btw I held off subohm'ing forever...

 

[thetrucker]

These ideas that you vapers are posting are my ideas too---funny how we all think alike--and great way to bring all

our ideas together in one place this ECF place...

 

[beckdg]

It is indeed confusion on whats what in mech land, but ya a full mech is not regulated and uses the full body of the mod as switched negative and the 510 pin is the only thing positive some do reverse this like the reo but most are switched mechanically negative.. Since its a plastic mod its not a full mech like a reo..

The Reo guys solved hot button and v-drop by using a better contact, they offered what was called an upgrade kit for older mods but it comes standard in their new mods.. It was the metals resistance not arc'ing or loose connection. They went to a beryllium gold plated contact -- so for 24 bucks and adding this contact type material someway somehow will make this mod into even a more awesome buy. I think I am gonna buy one been making a bf device in the future but this is too easy to not buy it..... Lots of nice atomizers out there but nothing beats fresh squeezed as us drippers know

My REO grand progression from left to right. (Unless the pic posts upside down)

Problem with first contacts;
Paper thin pin point on positive contact and 2 electrically poor contact points to fasten spring.

Problem with second contacts;
Still tiny contact area on positive contact and 2 electrically poor contact points to fasten spring.

Problem with third contacts;
Still tiny contact area on positive contact and 2 electrically poor contact points to fasten fuse.

You can see the mashed contact point on the positive "pin" from trying to overcome the damage from arcing such a small contact on a .4 ohm build. The wife did that. I vape @ 0.2 ohm and destroy pins weekly with this setup.

This caused me to invest in an expensive, but beautiful (form and function) T-Mod. This mod put my REOS on the back burner until yesterday when I received the parts I ordered to put my REOS back in rotation.

For the final revision, I drilled and recessed an 8mm m3 SS flat head screw for the neg post to eliminate weak contact points. Along with that, I added a solid copper contact where the contact patch was the full width of the bar.

I didn't make any extras, so pictured is just an off cut. But here is one installed.

ETA; My REOs now hit like a freight train.

Tapatyped

 

[Lessifer]

I don't remember where I found the image, or I would post it, but looking at the switch in the owl, it's easy to see lots of weak contact points. A sub ohm ready REO it is not, but it still works for me

 

[Visus]

That .... was arc'ing wow ya .2 ohm is too low even for the mighty Reo lol.. Glad you got it sorted... That makes this owl mod even more attractive esp if its easily moddable..

 

[Lessifer]

Not my image. It does look like someone with some knowhow might be able to make some modifications.

 

[thetrucker]

that looks like the small wires were replaced with 10 guage or there abouts---no more warm switch using this wire I'll bet.

 

[Lessifer]

that looks like the small wires were replaced with 10 guage or there abouts---no more warm switch using this wire I'll bet.

I'm pretty sure that image is stock, just taken apart, I'll try to check though.

I think the contact issue, if I'm looking at it correctly, is that when you depress the button it actually has to contact both the battery, and the upper ring of the button post has to make good contact with the washer that the red wire is soldered to.

 

[beckdg]

That .... was arc'ing wow ya .2 ohm is too low even for the mighty Reo lol.. Glad you got it sorted... That makes this owl mod even more attractive esp if its easily moddable..

Oh, I dunno. Still not able to be run over by an SUV and vaped right away.

I don't remember where I found the image, or I would post it, but looking at the switch in the owl, it's easy to see lots of weak contact points. A sub ohm ready REO it is not, but it still works for me

At the same time, fixing those electrical losses will make it much more efficient and greatly improve battery life.

I have half a mind to pick one up and put better wires in it. Only problem is I won't use it.

Tapatyped

 

[Lessifer]

Oh, I dunno. Still not able to be run over by an SUV and vaped right away.



At the same time, fixing those electrical losses will make it much more efficient and greatly improve battery life.

I have half a mind to pick one up and put better wires in it. Only problem is I won't use it.

Tapatyped

Feel free to do it, prove the concept, then mail it along to me

I've also noticed something, I was getting the occasional misfire, and I think it was because I was trying to press straight down on the button. I think the button post can make contact with the washer on it's side, so pushing down and to any side a tiny bit seems to make a good connection.

 

[beckdg]

Feel free to do it, prove the concept, then mail it along to me

I've also noticed something, I was getting the occasional misfire, and I think it was because I was trying to press straight down on the button. I think the button post can make contact with the washer on it's side, so pushing down and to any side a tiny bit seems to make a good connection.

Is that the 510 connection sitting atop the housing/body in its own black plastic housing?

Tapatyped

 

[Visus]

@beckdg
That make the Reo badarse fer sure lifelong mod yeah it is a great buy but at 24 bucks simulation with included atomizer coil rod cotton and o rings =priceless running over 7 of them lol

@Lessifer
Nice pic find!
That is uber simple to mod- may be able to squeeze a reg in there too

Looking at the black negative thats 20-24ga IDK it looks thin...
Drop some 14ga in it call it a day..

 

[Lessifer]

Is that the 510 connection sitting atop the housing/body in its own black plastic housing?

Tapatyped

It might be chromed metal, but yes, the 510 is raised above the rest of the unit, housed in the top plate section.

 

[KYBLUE]

I'm pretty sure that image is stock, just taken apart, I'll try to check though.

I think the contact issue, if I'm looking at it correctly, is that when you depress the button it actually has to contact both the battery, and the upper ring of the button post has to make good contact with the washer that the red wire is soldered to.

Interesting. i mentioned the light touch fire button in my first day review. I now see the occasional dud fire may be due to a weak connection by contacting only the sidewall or sleeve portion of the upper battery contact. If I fully depress the button compressing the bottom battery contact it will also make a better connection to the upper contact because it will bottom out on the flat portion. Hope that made sense to someone.

Oh, I dunno. Still not able to be run over by an SUV and vaped right away.



At the same time, fixing those electrical losses will make it much more efficient and greatly improve battery life.

I have half a mind to pick one up and put better wires in it. Only problem is I won't use it.

Tapatyped

I wouldn't be too sure on the SUV thing. Around these parts there are miles of black ABS pipe just laying on top of the ground, connecting oil pumps and collection tanks. They are run over daily by motorcycles, atvs, pickups, tanker trucks and the occasional backhoe or dozer. They hold up remarkably well. ABS is some tough stuff.

I am currently awaiting parts for my first box mod build and will definitely upgrade the wiring on this quarter benji bottom feeder after I have completed a satisfactory DIY squonker build.

ENJOY

 

[classwife]

let's cut out the cutsie switches for words that would normally be censored here please

 

[Lessifer]

???

let's cut out the cutsie switches for words that would normally be censored here please

 

[thetrucker]

That's what I noticed that I get nothing sometimes when I depress the fire button. If you press

kind of sideways on the button it seems to work better.

if we could fix this button issue so as to fire every time this thing would be a nice unit .

I have no problem with the atomizer at all--when it fires I get plenty of vapor and sometimes I see the excess eliquid

suck back into the screw holes kind of like it should.

The post about the cutsie switches I don't have any idea what that means ???