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3.0 Ohm Single Coil Tank Cartomizer Modding... Dry Hits? Not any more!

Discussion in 'Cartridge Mods' started by hacklerjason, Sep 30, 2012.

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  1. hacklerjason

    hacklerjason Full Member

    Sep 30, 2012
    Hawaii
    This is a small how to on modding my cartos. i was a chain smoker for 16 years and came from a volcano inferno, then to a volcano lavatube, then to a provari. the inferno was a huge improvement over what i used and failed on 4 years ago, the smart smokers choice 7... the batteries then were too small and died too quickly and the technology then was expensive! i was stoked to find the inferno as it was a bit larger so battery life was fixed and it was much cheaper than what i had come from. but the inferno had its flaws... being a 3.7v device, it all but required the use of dual coil attachments to up the heating power. but due to a "flaw" in the laws of physics, it didnt last long... fluid dynamics state that given two separate reservoirs with no restriction between them , the fluid will equalize in both to be the same level... well in tanks there is a restriction and it is that there is only a single hole for both liquid and air to pass through... this is manifested as the bubble in the hole... fluid and liquid do not contraflow well together. the other problem was the laws of gravity... despite the capillary effect in fluid dynamics, the fluid would not raise at a rate to keep the top coil as moist as the lower coil. so i would always burn the upper coils out from being too dry and the filler would be burning. the last problem was in thermal dynamics... heat rises... so the bottom coil AND the top coil both produced heat. but the top coil would get slightly hotter as an effect from the added heat from the lower coil. in principle, the dual coil cartos needed some "improvement". i then decided to switch to single coils but we all know those dont work well on 3.7v devices... i went and dumped even more breads into a lavatube, a higher, variable voltage device and then on to a provari for quality of product issues on the made in china lavatube. EUREKA!!!! i found something that lasts longer and doesnt burn as easily! found a new problem:(... it wont support me when i go on chain vaping fits... when i go on chain vaping fits, i would always have the problem where the little tiny hole in the carto wouldnt flow enough juice to keep the coil pack wet enough to vape on. ive tried two different sizes over stock and have found the second to be the best. i do not wish to go any farther as i have fixed the problem. the stock size is 1mm... the second size is 1/16th of an inch which is 1.5875mm ... the second size is 5/64th of an inch which is 1.984375mm... with the hole being almost doubled, i still do not get flooding and i always have a wet coil pack but this will depend on you... how hard you pull on it would dictate whether or not you will experience flooding. best thing to do is start with the 1/16th hole and try it out, if you still get dry tokes, try the larger one. better to start small and work up, you cant undrill a hole ;-)... i do notice that if i pull too hard when im super frustrated itll flood once in awhile, but i can fix that just with kicking the voltage up to 6.0v for a couple of pulls and then back down to 5.3v(my sweet spot) and all is well however if you do get some flooding on a hole too big for you, you can slide the tank up a bit to cover some of the hole and that should help... the reason i prefer drilling, is the taste and aesthetics... i do not like slotting as i makes an abrasive dust that you can taste in the carto... its tastes like your juice, while sucking on a dirty penny... and punching leaves a really ugly dent in the carto and i am super ocd like that... if you drill, the way the drill works in principle will pull the material out of the hole as opposed to pushing into the carto as slotting would... drilling is the best for me but it requires having the 1mm stock hole to start with, or you will have a hard time... if you have non pre punched cartos, start with an engraver and just blast in a single focused spot to make a spot for the drill bit to sit in or the bit will walk all over the place when you try to drill... and be safe! drilling is dangerous not done properly... also... you will want to use cobalt drill bits... they are a harder material and work better for longer at cutting stainless steel... high speed steel bits will work for a few cartos but will dull quickly... the recommended cutting speed for the listed sizes in these stainless steel cartos is about 1rps or 60rpm at light to moderate pressure... put a paint mark on your chuck if it helps... count how many times the paint park passes in 1 second... slow and steady wins the race... if you go too quickly you will find your first few cartos in the trash! at the very last second as the drill bit is just about to punch through, it will BITE and HARD! when it does at this point you should stop on the trigger... the carto will be stuck on the bit 9 out of 10 times and you can let go of it... what i do is grab the carto in hand and twist in the direction of the cut as to continue cutting, only by hand power... while doing this, pull away from the drill bit to remove that last bit of material in the carto... if you go too deep or too fast, you will end up winding the filler material into a cute little ball rendering your carto useless... then when i am done boring the hole, i use last a 9/64 bit to cut a 67.5 degree bevel in the hole and to remove the big burrs from drilling... then a fine tooth hobby file to remove the small burrs... do not use sand paper or you will end up with the same metal taste as slotting and do not negate this last step or you will slice your bottom orings on the first insertion
    hACKman
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