3.7 Regulated Options

[proax9]

Right now I have an E-Power (14650 version), GLV2 SM, and Reo Mini. Surprisingly, the e-Power is becoming my main PV because
1. It's regulated (no drop off)
2. bigger mAh - need to carry only 2 batts

I use 1.5 ohm DCs which means for my GLV SM and Reo mini- I notice a drop off within an hour or so, and batt will last about 3/4 hours; where the 1050 mAh e-power will last 6/7 hours.

I really want another regulated 3.7v, but other than the e-power I only see regulated 5v or vv as an option.
I am not looking for 5v- I love 3.7v with 1.5 ohm DCs.

Two Questions:

I noticed that some VV mods use 2*16430 batts. Compared to the GLV which uses one of these batts, how long will the batts last running the mod at 3.7v with 1.5 ohm DCs?

Any specific suggestions on PVs to look into?

Thanks.....

 

[mlinky]

As I remember, you are using protected batteries on your REO Mini instead of the AW IMR's. The recommended AW IMR's do provide a much better vape on the Mini without nearly as much drop off, and are also the only batteries in the 14500 size with enough capacity to reliably power a LR atty.

Just saying, while you may be going exactly where you need to for your vaping style, if you are not using an AW IMR 14500 on your Mini, you are not getting the best out of it.

 

[AlmightyGod]

The Standard GLV-2 is regulated to 3.6v.

 

[Dudeman]

The Standard GLV-2 is regulated to 3.6v.

Is there now some kind circuit board with a regulator in the GLV2?

Regulated means it maintains that voltage through the life of the battery. There will be no drop off in voltage as the battery drains.

 

[CraigHB]

You're not actually vaping at 3.7V with a single cell regulated device like the eGo. I assume the e-Power is regulated in a similar manner. They solve the fade-out problem by regulating to minimum battery voltage, a little under 3.5 Volts. Once the battery discharges to the same level as the output, the device shuts down and requires charging. There aren't a whole lot of e-cigs like the eGo that regulate to a lower voltage. That's the cheap and simple way to solve the fade-out problem.

Most people would rather have a VV device. Solves the fade-out problem and you get variable voltage to boot. There's just no reason to design an e-cig with more sophisticated and sometimes expensive regulation without making it variable. Doesn't make much sense.

It would be possible to use a 2.5Ω dual coil (they are available) with a VV device and match your current preferred power. Your current power with the 1.6Ω dual coil and e-Power is is around 7.5 Watts. With a VV device and a 2.5Ω dual coil, you'll get the same power (and thereby heat) at 4.4 Volts.

There are two types of dual cell VV devices. Linear and switched. The linear ones are not as efficient so they don't get runs times as good as the switched ones. Only the more expensive VV devices use switching regulators. The single cell ones always use a switching regulator, they have to in order to boost the voltage.

Run time is going to depend on what type of device you use and the voltage you run it at. Hard to say for sure really, but with a dual cell switch regulated mod, you can pretty much add the mAh capacity of the batts to figure your total capacity. So, for example, a switch regulated dual cell mod with two 750mAh batteries would give 1500mAh of capacity in total, less about 10% for inefficiency.

 

[proax9]

I tested the epower with a meter- and it is 3.7 at the start (even though battery is 4.2 off charger)- and it is still 3.7 5 hours down the road.
The 14500's start start to drop to 3.6 within 1- 1.5 hours.

Regulated or not- the GLV2 Mini- used smaller mAh batteries- need 4 to get through the day.

Mlinky- good memory (or research)!! I did start off with AW protected, but I bought the AW IMRs based on recommendation on ECF. Too be honest, I did not see any 'noticeable' difference in battery life.

 

[mlinky]

I tested the epower with a meter- and it is 3.7 at the start (even though battery is 4.2 off charger)- and it is still 3.7 5 hours down the road.
The 14500's start start to drop to 3.6 within 1- 1.5 hours.

Regulated or not- the GLV2 Mini- used smaller mAh batteries- need 4 to get through the day.

Mlinky- good memory (or research)!! I did start off with AW protected, but I bought the AW IMRs based on recommendation on ECF. Too be honest, I did not see any 'noticeable' difference in battery life.

Actually, I did remember. My brain is so cluttered with useless information...

I'm glad you tried the AW IMR and I hope you find exactly what you need to get your sweet spot

 

[ericdjobs]

I tested the epower with a meter- and it is 3.7 at the start (even though battery is 4.2 off charger)- and it is still 3.7 5 hours down the road.
The 14500's start start to drop to 3.6 within 1- 1.5 hours.

Regulated or not- the GLV2 Mini- used smaller mAh batteries- need 4 to get through the day.

Mlinky- good memory (or research)!! I did start off with AW protected, but I bought the AW IMRs based on recommendation on ECF. Too be honest, I did not see any 'noticeable' difference in battery life.

That is so weird.. see, there MUST be two versions of the e-power switch. In another thread, I made a huge post about how the e-power is touted as being regulated when in fact, it isn't. Mine tests at battery voltage (If battery is testing at 4.1v, e-power outputs 4.1v, etc). I wouldn't even KNOW this if it wasn't for the fact I was changing batteries out like CRAZY.. then it dawned on me, on a regulated device I should have NO desire the change the battery for a bigger 'hit'...

I thought I had a faulty switch, so I tested my replacement switch I ordered... same deal.. battery showing a voltage of 4.0 ( at that point) and the output was 4.0v. I asked others to test their e-powers, and quite a few people chimed in and it was not regulated as well (these were all recently purchased e-powers) So someone ended up asking a Smok-Tech sales rep, who asked an engineer.. and the answer was The e-power is not regulated. here's the post http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...specific-e-power-questions-2.html#post3676842 (When they say "ego battery" I assume they are referring to the smok-tech ego battery, which is unregulated.)

There are some IMR14650's... I use one for my e-power for dual-coils..I think electronistix or something has them. I started out using AW IMR 14500s and a home-made spacer, haha.

Here it is http://www.electronicstix.com/IMR-14650-HIGH-DRAIN-BATTERY-p307.html

Wow! They make a 4.8v NiMH that is 14650 size! I wonder if I could vape a 4.8v on my e-power, haha!
http://www.electronicstix.com/5-Volt-NIMH-Battery-for-The-Mako-Maksi-p305.html

 

[WillyB]

Right now I have an E-Power (14650 version), GLV2 SM, and Reo Mini. Surprisingly, the e-Power is becoming my main PV because
1. It's regulated (no drop off)
2. bigger mAh - need to carry only 2 batts

It's not regulated, and it's impossible to have a single battery mod 'regulated' to 3.7V, a Li-Ions nominal voltage, without some very sophisticated and expensive circuitry like in a ProVari.

proax9

I tested the epower with a meter- and it is 3.7 at the start (even though battery is 4.2 off charger)- and it is still 3.7 5 hours down the road.
The 14500's start start to drop to 3.6 within 1- 1.5 hours.

If you are still referring to 1.6Ω DC's you need to start doing loaded volts tests if you are interested in what you are actually vaping at. With a standard 14500 the second hit will be about 3.6V if that, under load/actual vaping. A raw voltage (not loaded) battery only voltage reading of 3.6V is pretty much when you are done, unless you like vaping at ~3.1V.

Here is a loaded/vaping volts test with an 18350 that read 4.05V, not too far off of a full charge.

That's a DC on there.

Also note that is a direct line from batt-> switch-> atty. No power leaching, resistance adding Chinese switch circuit in the way.

There is no way that an E-Power could take that actual 3.36V and regulate it to 3.7V. Ain't happening.


@ eric

Wow! They make a 4.8v NiMH that is 14650 size! I wonder if I could vape a 4.8v on my e-power, haha!
5 Volt NIMH Battery for The Mako Maksi

I have no idea what ohms atty you use but here's what 4) 2500mAh NiMhs do with a 2Ω load. That pack started at 5.5V unloaded.

 

[proax9]

Well... we've got QUITE A FEW 'trusted' vendors claiming (and I quote)
".....First and foremost it provides a REGULATED 3.7 v experience....."

Sad, if you are right.

 

[my4jewels]

I am in the midst of an E Power coop, and I have asked a lot of questions about this pv. I posted this somewhere else, can't remember where...

I asked the Smoketech sales rep if the E Power was regulated at 3.7v, and this was his response:

"Our current Mosfet e power switch is not 3.7 v regulated, it's the same switch as the ego battery, the voltage will be lower after using.
but we can make 3.7v regulated switch."

 

[AttyPops]

my4: Here's the other thread

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ussion/206500-specific-e-power-questions.html

 

[CraigHB]

I asked the Smoketech sales rep if the E Power was regulated at 3.7v, and this was his response:

"Our current Mosfet e power switch is not 3.7 v regulated, it's the same switch as the ego battery, the voltage will be lower after using. but we can make 3.7v regulated switch."

Well, that guy doesn't know his .... from a hole in the ground. A MOSFET is NOT a regulator. It's merely a switch. You can have better and poorer MOSFETs that can handle less or more power, that's it. They do not regulate power other than to turn it off and on.

There are four main types of regulators;

"Boost" is a type of switching regulator. It requires one cell and is most expensive, especially for higher power outputs. It usually can't go much over 6V and a max of 5.5V is not unusual. Boost can not regulate much below battery voltage. Boost loads batteries hardest and often requires a "high drain" cell. Boost is typically around 90% efficient, meaning it only wastes around 10% of the battery's output power as heat.

"Buck" is also a type of switching regulator. It requires two cells and can regulate with a wide voltage range well below and close to the 7.4V of the two cells. It's somewhat cheaper than boost and typically has much higher output power capacity. It also has much lower battery loading. Buck is typically around 90% efficient.

"Linear" is similar to buck in that it requires two cells, but it's not as efficient. It's the most inexpensive. Linear has the disadvantage of wasting power and making a lot of heat. Battery loading is less then boost, but higher than buck. Efficiency can be as poor as 50% for lower voltage settings and is usually around 70% for voltages in the 5V area.

Finally there is PWM. It's the most efficient regulation system and has lower cost than buck, but higher cost than linear. It can be used with one or two cells, but can't go above battery voltage. The eGo uses PWM to regulate to a constant voltage below battery voltage. Two cell mods use it for a wide range of voltage settings well below and up to the 7.4V of a dual cell. Battery loading is similar to buck.

One caveat with PWM is that it varies power by pulsing voltage at high frequency. It's not actually DC power. When referring to PWM voltages, you're talking in terms of equivalent DC voltage. Voltage measurements are tricky with PWM. You need a meter designed to measure them.

Any e-cig or mod either uses no regulator or one of the above types of regulation. Each type has it's advantages and disadvantages.

 

[ericdjobs]

Thank you CraigHB and WillyB.

I thoroughly enjoy every post each one of you guys make.. I always find myself leaving the thread with more knowledge than I came in with whenever you guys are invovled.. great asset to the community.

 

[AttyPops]

If it's regulated at all, I'll bet it's similar to the Riva PWM... a bit higher average voltage than the eGo PWM. Who knows what they do when it falls below target voltage since they are processor controlled. They may just stay at a 100% duty cycle until some cut-off threshold.

I thought the e-power was either all mechanical, or mosfet.......no PWM. But that was just a swag. It's usually quoted as being a 3.7 volt mod. Maybe they use a eGo type e-cig PCB in the switch. Someone has to cut one of these switches up someday.

 

[my4jewels]

Now I'm totally lost...but I'm trying to learn. Three months ago, I didn't even know what an e cig was, never mind, pv, batt, atty, cart, carto pg, vg, pga, VV, mod, PT, lr, and a myriad of other stuff. I even have ohm's law written down so I know what to use with what. I don't think I'll ever understand all this technical stuff. I just wanna get a good vape on...

I just hope I like my E Power.

 

[CraigHB]

Do most people "need" a regulated e-cig or mod? Probably not. But for some of us that want the features they offer, variable voltage, no fade-out, they are available for us. The eGo regulates with PWM to solve the fade-out problem, but is that a huge feature that most people would really miss? I doubt it.

In your case, if an e-cig works for you then it works for you. The inner workings can remain transparent. If you ever want to go looking for more features, then the option to learn about them is there for you.

Happy vaping!

 

[WillyB]

Now I'm totally lost...but I'm trying to learn. ... I don't think I'll ever understand all this technical stuff. I just wanna get a good vape on...

I just hope I like my E Power.

When it's working it should be fine. But there is the rub, will it be reliable? With the co-op who can you call for problems?

 

[my4jewels]

What I meant was that I am lost about boost, buck, linear, but I do know what PWM means. I also have basic knowledge about regulated vs. nonregulated, as much as most of the folks on this forum. I read everything I could about the E Power, searched out information for days, and relied on the Smoketech rep for some specific answers. One would think I could trust him.

Everyone involved in the coop chose to participate based on their own research, and they know the risks. I made that clear. Many of them already own E Powers and are really excited about getting another one. Everyone came into this with their eyes open, and they will get what they ordered at a great price.

 

[Stosh]

I understand the difficulty in measuring voltage under load without a RMS meter, O-scope or expensive watt-meter, but even on a PWM mod is the amperage still relatively accurate treated as a DC circuit.

If the resistance is known, measuring the amperage on a DC circuit would give you the voltage, and with a simple calculation the wattage.

Which is really what makes the difference in vaping as the wattage is the heat we are after to vaporize the juice.