.3 ohm coil showing as.4 ohm
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They only read to the tenths decimal place so it rounds. Also checking the coil after building and then wicking/juicing it will change the resistance slightly. And if you have fired the coil, try tightening your screws again as they can heat and contract.
It is normal for pre built replacement heads to have resistance variances, also the built in ohms meters aren't the most accurate.
Combine the two and .1 ~ .3 difference in what is printed on the head vs what shows on the display is fairly usual.
Combine the two and .1 ~ .3 difference in what is printed on the head vs what shows on the display is fairly usual.
Thank you for your prompt reply. I thigh something was wrong and replaced the coil, only to get the same result. 2 more questions if you don't mind? Should i clean the coils i removed since its new? If so how? And ok i lied, 3 questions. What is the recommended voltage/watts for a .3 ohm coil?
I would not try to clean the used heads, more chance of matting the wicking material making it slow to wick when used again.
Some folks soak / rinse them in PGA then allow to dry, be sure to properly prime them again before use.
No such thing as recommended power setting for x Ω head, it is a matter of individual preference. Start off low & work your way up until you find what you like, if you get an odd or burnt taste turn it down.
Some folks soak / rinse them in PGA then allow to dry, be sure to properly prime them again before use.
No such thing as recommended power setting for x Ω head, it is a matter of individual preference. Start off low & work your way up until you find what you like, if you get an odd or burnt taste turn it down.
Hi and welcome to the board. Those coils are manufactured on automated machinery at great speed. There is some normal variance in their values. You got a high one, is all. Another point is, accurate measurement of resistances below one ohm is not an easy task; good accuracy requires the 4-point Kelvin technique, a thing a mod is not equipped to do.
Is this your coil? Most of the new Sub-Ohm coils have recommended watts written on the sides, I have never used that tank (or any Aspire tanks for that matter) but normally those numbers are the peak of wattage before you get burning. Like stated before, start low - 15w - and increase until you are getting a satisfying vapor. Once it is too hot or the flavor is getting bad, go back to the sweet spot. We all like different vapes. Enjoy!
The 0.3 ohm Atlantis coil is "rated" for 70-80 watts. I tried it at that wattage and the vape was too warm for me. I preferred it at around 50-55 watts. I think if you try using it at 40 watts or lower, it will be too low for the coil and it will barely warm up.
The authentic .3 aspire triton heads have 45w - 55w printed on the head and use 316L stainless steel coil.
The atlantis .3 head has 70w -80w printed on the head - kanthal coil.
The atlantis .3 head has 70w -80w printed on the head - kanthal coil.
I'm currently running on 30w any higher seems to hot and harsh....is it the nicotine that gives off the harshness? I'm using 6mg nicotine
Yeah nicotine will affect the throat hit. PG will also factor in. What juice are you vaping right now? I use max VG as I find too much PG bothers me
Cuttwood monster melon with 6mg nicotine, I also just bought tonight unicorn milk with 3mg nicotine which is much smoother to vape, I think I might cut down to 3mg
30 PG/70 VG is normal for a "max VG". You can always get a bottle of 3mg and mix ur 6 with it to get a 4.5mg nicotine. And 30 watts is plenty of power, if it's comfortable vaping there - you're doing it right.
Did you properly prime the head before using?
If not, most likely the wicking material got scorched / burned.
Hot & harsh could be from scorched wicking material reducing wicking ability or PG % or nic mg.
Seems most folks use 3 - 6 mg nic, & higher % VG than PG.
To prime a head, Drip drops onto the wicking material from the top until it is fully saturated, then install in base, fill tank thread together, take a few un powered primer puffs, may need to hold a finger over the airflow holes.
You should see bubbles rising from the wicking holes occasionally if it is wicking correctly.
If not, most likely the wicking material got scorched / burned.
Hot & harsh could be from scorched wicking material reducing wicking ability or PG % or nic mg.
Seems most folks use 3 - 6 mg nic, & higher % VG than PG.
To prime a head, Drip drops onto the wicking material from the top until it is fully saturated, then install in base, fill tank thread together, take a few un powered primer puffs, may need to hold a finger over the airflow holes.
You should see bubbles rising from the wicking holes occasionally if it is wicking correctly.
yes I did prime it, I'm getting used to this new mod. I was using the ego one but wanted more control. so finding the sweet spot is taking some practice. I think the lower nicotine will do the trick though. I'm just not sure what I'm supposed to be changing. the volts or the watts?
Adjusting watts is what most folks do, you can't adjust both, it is one or the other, watt mode or volt mode.
More airflow should cool the vape, try different air flow settings too.
Different flavors & flavorings and pg/vg ratios will taste best at different power settings.
If your trying to mouth to lung inhale it is going to be hot & harsh, high airflow sub ohm clearos work best with direct lung hits.
More airflow should cool the vape, try different air flow settings too.
Different flavors & flavorings and pg/vg ratios will taste best at different power settings.
If your trying to mouth to lung inhale it is going to be hot & harsh, high airflow sub ohm clearos work best with direct lung hits.
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