5 V Help!!!???

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jj2

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These were made from kits from madvapes and following their instructions.
Hubby made them and has made the 3.7 mods.

Both 5V fire up but overheat and shutdown.
Any suggestions???

First two pictures are of number one. Since it overheated he's redone things and double checked continuity---even made a heat sink for it.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/harent2/5volt001.jpg
.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/harent2/5volt002.jpg

Just got the second one done today and since it's doing the same thing opinions needed on what is going on.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/harent2/5volt004.jpg
.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac93/harent2/5volt003.jpg
 

AttyPops

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Looking at the soldering connections, I suspect a short and or cold solder connection. YOW!

+1

There are some tutorials/links in the stickies on soldering. Basically, u need to use fine solder, a 30 watt iron with fine tip, and heat the part and wire and pad, then flow the solder on to it.... don't melt the solder with the iron. Melt the solder with the hot parts.

Also, best to get a multi-meter so we can take measurements and tell what's going on.

For reference, the pins are (left to right, looking at front, pins pointing down): Input, Output, Ground, Control. The resistor looks like it is going between ground and control correctly. Not sure about the wires to the atty in pic #2 tho... but can't quite make it out.
 
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santo19586

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i cant tell where are the wires run too,atty, switch, pos bat , negative to switch,
 

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WillyB

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Well I don't think anyone can really help you by looking at the pics, no offense but the soldering is rather scary.

As long as you followed the diagram they should and do work. The heatsink is a good addition quite necessary especially if using Joye atties.

Both 5V fire up but overheat and shutdown.
These linear regs tend to get quite hot, especially with fresh cells.

Will it shut down if you just hold the fire switch with no atty? Does your LED look normal (not too bright and steady)?

Try testing the volts at the connector (no atty) and see what you get (a tad over 5V).

The connector insulator can be easily damaged. Check for continuity between the center post and the shell, you want no continuity and basically zero ohms at these points.
 

jj2

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Well I don't think anyone can really help you by looking at the pics, no offense but the soldering is rather scary.

As long as you followed the diagram they should and do work. The heatsink is a good addition quite necessary especially if using Joye atties.

These linear regs tend to get quite hot, especially with fresh cells.

Will it shut down if you just hold the fire switch with no atty? Does your LED look normal (not too bright and steady)?

Try testing the volts at the connector (no atty) and see what you get (a tad over 5V).

The connector insulator can be easily damaged. Check for continuity between the center post and the shell, you want no continuity and basically zero ohms at these points.

Hubby agrees with you about the soldering---he calls it APE---big and ugly.
He is disabled and gets the shakes real easy, but I give him credit for trying.

Next question, he is redoing things and using different wire. He wants to know what wire is the best to use?

And he does have a little knowledge of what everything should do and he checked continuity and they were okay.
 
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kcofohio

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im sorry but my ultra fire 14500's run just fine with a 2.5ohm atty so i dont understand your claim. and yes they are the pcb version.


My claim would be that when I've tried using one of my 5v mods that use 14500s. It will hit good the first time, but with each hit after that, the mod kicks off soon after hitting switch. The mods that use 18350 don't have that problem. All my 5v mods use same reg at OP.

Only threw the idea into ring for process of elimination.
 

jj2

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My claim would be that when I've tried using one of my 5v mods that use 14500s. It will hit good the first time, but with each hit after that, the mod kicks off soon after hitting switch. The mods that use 18350 don't have that problem. All my 5v mods use same reg at OP.

Only threw the idea into ring for process of elimination.

Well I am using the 14500 but from what I've seen so do a lot of other people.
Maybe I'll check out some of the 18350 during this catastrophe. LOL
 

kcofohio

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Well I am using the 14500 but from what I've seen so do a lot of other people.
Maybe I'll check out some of the 18350 during this catastrophe. LOL

You should be fine, seeing that you use a HV atty. May I ask what the control pin (#4) is connected to, I leave mine open, seeing that I don't have any on/off switches on mods.
 

Java_Az

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22 awg wire is what i prefer. you can get away with 24awg if you need something smaller. At the low volts we use either solid or braided wire will work. braided is easier to work with since it more flexible. Copper or silver wire is the best. Silver being 7% better( more efficient ) then copper, it might not be worth the extra cash for it. Plus you wont find it in a local store unless you have a airplane parts house close by. It is mainly used in aircraft.
 

jj2

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