510 connector and magnetic switch questions

[EagleTa2]

Hi all...
I am just thinking of building my first mod...which will be a BF box mod...similar to a Reo or Bogger.

Im a woodworker, so making the case and even a fancy turned wooden button will not be difficult.

the 510 connector is troubling me though. I have a broken ego battery that has a sealed 510/ego connector on it. Could I just drill a hole through it to make it a bf connector? Could it be that simple?

the switch is also giving me fits. I wouldd like to build a magnetic mechanical switch for longevity. would anyone please draw a simple diagram of how to assemble a maggnetic mechanical switch? I would like to have button that pushes down from the top and contacts the positice env of the battery (18650)

Thanks in advance for any help!

Geo

 

[AgentMSG]

Hello!

I've been lurking around looking for information on making an e-pipe, and I've come across some stuff you might find useful. (I wish we had spoiler tags so this post wasn't so big). Let me know if I've missed the point entirely and I'll make the post smaller. Really tired at the moment, wouldn't be surprised.

Phantom309 suggested Michael D.'s youtube channel for making a mech mod. (original post here)

Duckie_44 posted this image and a bunch of text: (original post here)

DanMan........They say that a picture is worth a 1000 words.......here's one worth about buck 98......

Now.... a little information....The battery is level or just below(about a mm +/-) the ring.....The button is magnet(opposing magnets)...All the button(switch) does is close the circuit ......Always use a fuse, things happen...I know...

Their are all kinds of ways to make a pipe, and all kinds of switch's ....go to page 59 #590 in "Pipe Talk-" and look at hirize's "zepipe switch 55" for one.....

Someone in this thread asked about using a Z-Max......Your only limited by your own imagination...."Freight Train Mods" use a DNA-12; "Mad Hitter" has made some pipes with a DNA-20; Yours truly has made a pipe that uses a Kick.....

The best way to learn about all of this.....use the search engine on this forum, type in "E-Pipe Mods", about 39 pages of which about a third of the posts you can skip.....Read through "pipe talk-" also you might be surprised by what you will learn...And also ask questions...

Anyway.....End of rant...WELCOME.....to our little house...

duckie.......

He also posted this excellent set of images (mighty helpful person, this duckie) (original post)

gwb.....I apologize for not answering your questions sooner.....I have been out of town.

Has far as tips...I would get everthing I was going to use in the pipe...button,battery,connector,etc....and lay it out and measure everthing...When I decided what I was going to use, I drilled my holes in a 2x4, riped to 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 3 1/2".....to test what would work.....I had to make a couple of blocks, before I got what I liked....

I hope this answer's some of your questions....Use any or all of this,withever way you deside to get there...do what works best for you...
FYI....that magnet in the bottom of the pipe...is way too big...(3/4x1/16 or smaller would have worked), also I showed a e-go connector, thats not what I used pipe I made......That why I said lay everthing out ....to get some idea of what to do.....

Hopefully some of that helps. I haven't looked too deeply into it, these are just posts I've bookmarked for later use (I'm nowhere near making anything at this point). Hopefully someone will jump in and explain it in detail to us.

 

[asdaq]

Hey Eagle, a couple of things to add:

About the ego connector, yes your plan there is solid, you can also buy a connector ready to go like this one: 510 Battery Connector, Gold Small Hole They also have the large hole, but it is OOS, and making the hole larger is easier than drilling out the sealed ego connector.

As for the battery orientation, I would recommend that it is facing positive end down and that you switch the negative for two reasons. In the event of battery venting, the gasses will be aimed away from your face, and the negative end is a larger smoother target for the switch, better than a button top or flat top.

With Duckie's diagram he recommends a smaller magnet I would suggest a 1/2 x 1/4 (or 1/8) x 1/16 N42 magnet. I have had good luck with these and in one mod I used a 15mm x 3.5 countersunk x ~1/16 and it is strong enough to attract items near the mod like batteries, which is mildly annoying.

For the switch itself, the basics would be: two opposing ring magnets, a post/screw for the button, and a shaft for the post to slide through with an insulator to keep the battery from contacting when not firing. It sounds brief and I'm sorry I don't have a drawing, but you can see some in threads of mine for a start, there are many more too.

Hope this helps you get further along!