5V circuit help needed

[cyberwolf]

I finally got around to using some components I got from madvapes and have run into a little problem. When my switch is on, I get a true 5v, but when it's off sometimes the voltage drops to nothing and other times it stays on and wanders around between 1 and 6 volts. Is this an issue with the regulator or the engineer (I know just enough to solder it together and not much more...)?

This is the regulator I used

And this is the schematic I followed

Beside needeing to use a heavier switch, is there any problem with just eliminating the whole control pin circuit if I can't get this figured out?

 

[LeggoMyEars]

I finally got around to using some components I got from madvapes and have run into a little problem. When my switch is on, I get a true 5v, but when it's off sometimes the voltage drops to nothing and other times it stays on and wanders around between 1 and 6 volts. Is this an issue with the regulator or the engineer (I know just enough to solder it together and not much more...)?

This is the regulator I used

And this is the schematic I followed

Beside needeing to use a heavier switch, is there any problem with just eliminating the whole control pin circuit if I can't get this figured out?

Cyberwolf,

I build several 5V mods and I never use a 4 legged regulator. Just the three leg where left leg is input, center is ground, and right is output. I feel that the control pin is far to complex for the job since an entire circuit must be built around it. Not necessary. Maybe someone can answer your question for that circuit but I would recomend a simple 3 legged reg. I do use a 10uf cap between output leg and actuator switch to level out the spikes from the regulator because I believe it will extend the atomizer life. Hope this will help you. Also you might write to MadVapes and ask the same question. They have been very helpful to me a few times. Good luck.

 

[5cardstud]

You can run it without the contro pin but you better get a good switch because they burn out faster. You shouldn't get any voltage when it's off. I would check to make sure you don't have a short or solder running together. If you put yor switch between the pos wire coming off the battery to the button then to the control pin you won't have power to it until it's pushed.

 

[Connman]

This regulator always is on and should be used on mods that have a off switch.
Although I don`t see this causing the different readings. Maybe a bad switch? Not turning off all the way.

Or possible solder where it shouldn`t be contacting the next row over as well. That resister in the diagram needs to be there as shown it`s not for LED`s. The regulator needs it.
If your getting these readings at the battery/atty connector. For sure its a short in the rows bypassing the switch in sorts.
Take a pocket knife and be sure the rows are not touching the next.

 

[cyberwolf]

I wasn't getting any resistance between rows. That was my first assumption due to my sloppy soldering. I also eliminated the switch early on to make sure that wasn't it. I must have had something touching somewhere, however, because after messing around with it a little while everything is working as it should. Taking the atty on and off was the only thing I really changed, but must have done something else.

I'm still stumped and am a little hesitant to bury this in the Eclipse tin I was planning (yes, this is all your fault, connman ). I may just get a 3AAA box so I can keep an eye on it for a little while.

 

[Connman]

I'm still stumped and am a little hesitant to bury this in the Eclipse tin I was planning (yes, this is all your fault, connman ). I may just get a 3AAA box so I can keep an eye on it for a little while.

Ut-Oh. I was just looking at my eclipse mints tin mod. Still have to do a 5 volt myself but do think I`ll go with the 3 pin style regulators on that one from TI. But if I wanted a small switch it would be the 4 pin.

Ok back to messing with this Zippo.

 

[duby]

I had a similar problem with the same reg. I ended up using tweezers to short around the switch and got consistent voltage. Threw away the switch and replaced it. Haven't had a problem since. Everyone's advice is solid. Double check contacts. Run a continuity test around the whole thing and make sure its not shorted. Make sure you're not bending something and shorting it when its in the box and all closed up.
Heat shrink is your friend here, also Kapton tape.