5v regulator
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So when will you show us your mod with those features h8isgr8?
Would love to see some pics and more details on the performance.
^^^^
I need to buy a project box first, and I hate going to ratshack. The sales reps always look at me with disdain for only spending a few bucks on parts and not walking out with a new cell phone or radio controlled car.
I need to buy a project box first, and I hate going to ratshack. The sales reps always look at me with disdain for only spending a few bucks on parts and not walking out with a new cell phone or radio controlled car.
I don't go to RS anymore, (unless I need something right now), not because of the reps, but the outrageous prices and scarce selection.
Online is the way to go for me.
^^^
I only buy a few different items from them..... silver bearing solder, solder iron tips, and plastic project boxes. Usually becuase I need it now.
Well, I did a current measurement... With load (atomizer) connected on the boosted battery, I measured 1.5A current and 4v "working" voltage on the atomizer leads.
Its way better than before...!!! The atomizer gets hot immediately and I need to drag half time puff than before to produce double vapor!!!
I don't think that 7.5v is the real problem here for the atomizer as the total voltage drops by the resistor of the atomizer (BTW my atomizers has 4 ohm resistance)
And another thing... The battery doesn't loose too power much by that booster. It kept working for a whole day without need of charge... will leave it uncharged to see if it can last one more day...!
Thanos
Yes, I find a lot of variation with my atomizers, they go from 2.5 anywhere up to 4.2 ohms. I have checked on 901,801,510 and 401 attys and the readings are not consistent always even on same type.
Great that it is working so well, we will know more later as you use it more.
BTW, love your motion flight simulator project. looks like a LOT of fun. (and work).
http://ptyxiouxos.net/greekbotics/u...lator/thanos_home_motion_flight_simulator.htm
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Thanks!!! My motion simulator is a huge project that took me years to complete... unlike these e-cigarette mini-projects, that took me a few hours...
Anyway, I reduced the voltage down to 6V and 5V but the amount of vapor was disappointing. So I changed it back to 7.5V and works perfect!!! Perfect throat hit!!!! Perhaps commercial cigarettes should have a tiny booster like this to allow the user adjust it on his needs!!!!
Thanos
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Well, that makes no sense as the dc-dc converter you are using is supposed to be regulated. If the no load voltage is 7.5V, but drops to 4V under load..... then you are obviously overloading the converter.
The one I'm using stays at a rock solid 5V under load with a measured 1.3A current draw. The atomizer measures 3.7R cold. The numbers work out almost perfectly there.
Your numbers don't add up..... 4V/4R = 1A (not 1.5A).
Whatever though, as long as it's working for you and your happy with it. I'm just trying to keep misinformation from being spread around.
I'm not trying to spread misinformation here. I do real tests and real measurements on my mods before going into announcements. Sometimes numbers cannot calculate accurate the behavior on these devices. Its only theory after all !!
But let me remind you that: 7.5V / 4R = 1.875A
And if we subtract the 20% loss = 1.5A !!!!
....there! Now the numbers fit better!!!!
And just for comparison I did "LOAD" tests to the original 5V USB-passthough that came with my e-cig: It outputs 1A / 5V ...BUT... under load with atomizer connected, the voltage drops to 3.8V - 4.2V !!!! 8-o
Thanos
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WOW, is all I can say to that.
I see no point in arguing with you, as you will just continue to make up totally absurd statements like above.
Yes, it's a TI part.
If someone wanted to do a buck converter setup with two cells in series, the PTH08000W or PTH08080W would be suitable. I prefer the simplicity of a single cell boost setup though.
If someone wanted to do a buck converter setup with two cells in series, the PTH08000W or PTH08080W would be suitable. I prefer the simplicity of a single cell boost setup though.
Just for the record ..and UK modders specifically 1A Low Dropout Fixed Positive Voltage Regulator : Voltage Regulators : Maplin work pretty much perfectly as far as I can tell, thanks H8, .
2xCR2/2x10440 are both kicking out 4.95volts (my meter is a bit old and battered so it may be 5v) and 1.15amps. It's perfect for my 5volt tastes delivery exactly the same hit/vapour/taste/temperature as 5volt/amp through a USB wall adaptor with a passthrough, sorry for stating the obvious. I'll post an update if I notice any atomizer oddities or heat issues, the vr is very tightly packed as you can imagine so it doesn't have too much space to breath although the heatsink is in good contact with the metal torch wall.
Edit : forgot to mention, I was attempting to use low ohm resistors, .5/1/1.5 but there were huge consitancy problems, vapour was fine at the start but would come and go as it pleased and just wasn't what I was after.
. 2xCR2/2x10440 are both kicking out 4.95volts (my meter is a bit old and battered so it may be 5v) and 1.15amps. It's perfect for my 5volt tastes delivery exactly the same hit/vapour/taste/temperature as 5volt/amp through a USB wall adaptor with a passthrough, sorry for stating the obvious
. I'll post an update if I notice any atomizer oddities or heat issues, the vr is very tightly packed as you can imagine so it doesn't have too much space to breath although the heatsink is in good contact with the metal torch wall.Edit : forgot to mention, I was attempting to use low ohm resistors, .5/1/1.5 but there were huge consitancy problems, vapour was fine at the start but would come and go as it pleased and just wasn't what I was after.
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You can get 5 samples from Texas Instruments worldwide for free and no cost shipping.
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Really? I'll give it a shot it's worth a try, tho' the Maplins prices are reasonable ..at least compared to RS - it was going to be £5gbp per part for something usable.
Edit: Just ordered, thanks Warp, I never considered they might ship outside the U.S. Sign up was painless, name , address, had to verify email address(so use a valid one) and usage, I selected 'Home Entertainment' lol that was it
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Hi h8isgr8,
I tried using the PTN04050C and couldn't get it to work with any stability. I tried with and without input and output capacitors but the chip kept triggering the protection PCB on the lithium ion batteries. I tried all bat sizes up to 18650.
Basically it gives a really nice hit then dies for a bit. I tried with 3 separate chips and they all resulting in the battery protection kicking in.
Were you using them with an unprotected bat?
I would love to figure out a way to make them work, it offers some real possibilities for some mods I'm working on.
I tried using the PTN04050C and couldn't get it to work with any stability. I tried with and without input and output capacitors but the chip kept triggering the protection PCB on the lithium ion batteries. I tried all bat sizes up to 18650.
Basically it gives a really nice hit then dies for a bit. I tried with 3 separate chips and they all resulting in the battery protection kicking in.
Were you using them with an unprotected bat?
I would love to figure out a way to make them work, it offers some real possibilities for some mods I'm working on.
I was using it with an unprotected battery (just a built in PTC).
What type of capacitors did you use (electrolytic, tantalum, ceramic?), and how many uF are they?
I use at least 100uF as close as possible to the converter input and output and have never experienced any problems.
The only protected cells I have are 1000mAh cell phone batteries. I will try to power the converter from one when I get home from work and let you know how it works out. I have a hunch it will exceed the current limit of the protection board though.
What type of capacitors did you use (electrolytic, tantalum, ceramic?), and how many uF are they?
I use at least 100uF as close as possible to the converter input and output and have never experienced any problems.
The only protected cells I have are 1000mAh cell phone batteries. I will try to power the converter from one when I get home from work and let you know how it works out. I have a hunch it will exceed the current limit of the protection board though.
I ran the capacitors right on the board (100uF on both input and output). I tried going up to 400+ uF but it didn't make any difference. I then tested with 2 bats in parallel and it functioned perfectly so I'm pretty sure the current draw is triggering the protection pcb on the bat.
Edit: The caps I have are electrolytic.
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Edit: Just ordered, thanks Warp, I never considered they might ship outside the U.S. Sign up was painless, name , address, had to verify email address(so use a valid one) and usage, I selected 'Home Entertainment' lol that was it
Fed-ex are quick, they just arrived from the U.S.
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Ok..after going over all the possible options with RjG (another modder) to get the PTN04050C working reliably with protected bats it looks like the best option is to use low ESR caps along with a couple of 22uF ceramic caps. I've ordered the parts and will post the results next week. I'm really hoping this works because it hits like a full double bat mod when it kicks in without the cutoff.
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