6V vaping
- Thread starter dutch onsea
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That would (I assume) refer to vaping with variable voltage devices, where 6v is the highest setting on most devices. 3.7v batteries are what's used in them, the device regulates the voltage provided to the atomizer based on the setting you have it on
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
There are 3.2 and 3v batteries. Check the batteries section at e-smokeguru and COV. Try the lifepo ones they should be the safest to stack if you have concerns.
EDIT: don't forget you need a special charger for these not the one you use for the 3.7
EDIT: don't forget you need a special charger for these not the one you use for the 3.7
I very often use 6 volts for my vape dutch. I use 2x3 volt batteries and I make my coils at about 2 ohms. Its a very pleasant vape, better than when I use 1 battery
Honestly...due to ohms law, low ohmers can become "high voltagers" they can get the same wattage with higher volts and normal resistance coils than going normal volts and low ohms
With that said the wire gauges and the temperature of the wires also is the key in making the vape and not burning the juice
LiFePO4 are the "new hotness" out there...they hold less mAh than Li Ion per weight and run at lower voltages, have alot more recharge cycles than Li Ion, and can push more current than Li Ion (they are safer in high current situations but can still go 'splody 'splody if mistreated), but they do require different chargers and charge patterns and whatnot, but they run at a lower voltage than Li Ion
A little light reading
Lithium iron phosphate battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
With that said the wire gauges and the temperature of the wires also is the key in making the vape and not burning the juice
LiFePO4 are the "new hotness" out there...they hold less mAh than Li Ion per weight and run at lower voltages, have alot more recharge cycles than Li Ion, and can push more current than Li Ion (they are safer in high current situations but can still go 'splody 'splody if mistreated), but they do require different chargers and charge patterns and whatnot, but they run at a lower voltage than Li Ion
A little light reading
Lithium iron phosphate battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Ok,
Thanks guys. I found making 20 loops on my dual coils to get a resistance of around 2.4 and then vaping at 7.4V ok but I had to take short drags. definately with new bats. I thought I checked the COV and smokeguru side for the 3V bats. Ill check again.
Cheers...
Thanks guys. I found making 20 loops on my dual coils to get a resistance of around 2.4 and then vaping at 7.4V ok but I had to take short drags. definately with new bats. I thought I checked the COV and smokeguru side for the 3V bats. Ill check again.
Cheers...
Yes, found them. So these RCR123A are ok in my JustGG? And about this different charger youre talking about, Isuppose that is the optoin I have on the trustfire between 3 and 3.7? I just put it on 3 when I am charging the lifepro's?
Wattage (or power):7.4vx7.4v / 2.4Ω = 22.816666667 watts! THAT IS ALOT!
P = V 2 / R
Coincidentally, you are pulling 3.083333 amps from that setup
Can you explain your "dual coils" so you have 2-20 wrap coils, or two wires side by side wrapped 20 times? Or pics? What gauge wire?
Was the vape tasting burned or just hot?
Please be careful sir!
Honestly...till you have mastered NORMAL voltage vaping (and sub ohm vaping), it is HIGHLY recommended NOT TO attempt these exotic builds, it IS incredibly dangerous
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Here are all the RCR123A and LiFePO4 links on ECF...do a bit of research please!
https://www.google.com/search?q=RCR...a:en-US:official&channel=rcs&biw=1272&bih=520
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...acking-rcr123a-3v-900ma-batts-overstress.html (might wanna get with rolygate...he seems to know what he is talking about)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/179024-anybody-using-grand-6v.html
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For NR I`m using silver, my R is 0.13 Ni/Cr. I made 10 loops on each coil(duals in X). I`m sorry when I check now my resistance measures out at 3.2.( internal of meter 0.2) I know even 18.25watt is very high, that`s why I ask for the 3V bats? If my tank from my ithaka wouldn`t be full I could take a picture of my build. No burnt taste, good taste...Many thanks for the help on the batteries
I have said a lot of times on GG forum that wattage is not the right measurement guys. What I mean is that someone can vape at 20 watts and someone else at 10 watts and the 10 watts user may have more smoke and throat hit than the 20 watt user. Also wattage e-cigs cant vape all kind of wattage. It depends on the ohms you put on your atomizer.
try lowering your resistance to about 1.3 ohm combined.....that is usually a tad high for me but guarantees safety and great performance on a 3.7v battery.....
i never check what wattage i vape at....i use mechs only....i check ohms and amps to make sure my batteries c rating complies.....
on the ithaka i found that 2 - 1.5ohm coils (about 0.8ohm) give me my preferred vape.
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I agree with the above .8 is about perfect for a mech. As for 6v vaping I did it or a while loved it with the GGTB but hated the battery life.
Doesn't that contradict ohms law? I never experienced that. On what devices do you experience that?
of course not aaron. It depends on the device. Even if it goes up to 20 watts for example, that doesnt mean that it can vape any combination on those vatts. Also, there is more about it. What if you put a fat wire there?
As you see, its not only ohms law that plays a role here
As you see, its not only ohms law that plays a role here
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