Is there a "break in" period with the atomizers? It seems the new ones (even after blowing them out) draw really hard for a few days. Any suggestions?
801 atty trouble Hard draw on a new one
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What follows represents the collaborated wisdom of my fellow experts, yvilla and Kent C, with two cents thrown in by yours truly (but they are so gracious, they've asked me to submit it):
There is a break in period with atomizers in this sense - with new ones, you usually have to blow out the shipping/primer fluid which then dries them out a bit. Atomizers work best when wet, (and die when dry) - that's why they have fluid on them in the first place for shipping and storage before they're sold and used.
So, after blowing out, you have to then 'reprime' the atomizer, hopefully with some better tasting juice than with which they were shipped ;-)
Put 2 drops, maybe even 3, (don't flood it), to kick start either a new atomizer that has been blown out, or one that you have just cleaned. Huff the ecig a bit, like trying to keep fire going on a pipe or cigar, and by the time you're into half a cart you'll be back to normal draws.
If that solves your problem, you need not read further. It provides details that you may not need.
Not all "801" atomizers are created equal or, at least, the same. Some are 2-hole (generating more vapor some believe), some are 4-hole (easier draw), and one is 3-hole (the "golden mean?").
Different manufacturers make otherwise compatible atomizers slightly differently. For example, some are low bridge and some high bridge, as in this photo of two 901 style atomizers: the low bridge RN4075 on the left and the high bridge DSE901 on the right.
The same goes for the difference between a low bridge RN4072, BE112 and Joye302 penstyle ... and a high bridge DSE801 penstyle.
As for the cartridges, the problem comes when people mix them up - say, trying to use the cartridge made for the DSE801 on an RN4072 atomizer. The 801 cartridge is actually slightly shorter in length, so that's why it does nor work (wick) as well with an RN4072 atomizer. The filling simply doesn't reach down far enough into the mesh bridge. And conversely, trying to use the slightly longer cartridge designed for the RN4072 on a DSE801 atomizer results in a cartridge that won't fit in all the way (or stay in very well) sometimes.
Now here is my two cents (i.e., subjective personal opinion, not official expertise):
But that is just speculation on my part.
To find out more, check out the DSE 801 *Penstyle*, RN-4072 *Penstyle*, M-201 *Penstyle* Model Specific Discussion forums, as well as the E-cig Technical Issues forum.
There is a break in period with atomizers in this sense - with new ones, you usually have to blow out the shipping/primer fluid which then dries them out a bit. Atomizers work best when wet, (and die when dry) - that's why they have fluid on them in the first place for shipping and storage before they're sold and used.
So, after blowing out, you have to then 'reprime' the atomizer, hopefully with some better tasting juice than with which they were shipped ;-)
Put 2 drops, maybe even 3, (don't flood it), to kick start either a new atomizer that has been blown out, or one that you have just cleaned. Huff the ecig a bit, like trying to keep fire going on a pipe or cigar, and by the time you're into half a cart you'll be back to normal draws.
If that solves your problem, you need not read further. It provides details that you may not need.
Not all "801" atomizers are created equal or, at least, the same. Some are 2-hole (generating more vapor some believe), some are 4-hole (easier draw), and one is 3-hole (the "golden mean?").
Different manufacturers make otherwise compatible atomizers slightly differently. For example, some are low bridge and some high bridge, as in this photo of two 901 style atomizers: the low bridge RN4075 on the left and the high bridge DSE901 on the right.
The same goes for the difference between a low bridge RN4072, BE112 and Joye302 penstyle ... and a high bridge DSE801 penstyle.
As for the cartridges, the problem comes when people mix them up - say, trying to use the cartridge made for the DSE801 on an RN4072 atomizer. The 801 cartridge is actually slightly shorter in length, so that's why it does nor work (wick) as well with an RN4072 atomizer. The filling simply doesn't reach down far enough into the mesh bridge. And conversely, trying to use the slightly longer cartridge designed for the RN4072 on a DSE801 atomizer results in a cartridge that won't fit in all the way (or stay in very well) sometimes.
Now here is my two cents (i.e., subjective personal opinion, not official expertise):
Since I always drip and don't use cartridges, I don't notice much difference among these atomizers (although I haven't tried the Joye302 yet).
The problem, from my perspective, is the battery: I don't think a skinny battery like this is powerful enough to drive this atomizer (unlike the Joye510 atty, which is driven just fine by its battery). For example, my 801 and 112 attys work great on my 5V Prodigy. And I'm betting that they'll do very well on a box mod (with a 3.7V 900 mAh 14500 battery) I plan to purchase.
The problem, from my perspective, is the battery: I don't think a skinny battery like this is powerful enough to drive this atomizer (unlike the Joye510 atty, which is driven just fine by its battery). For example, my 801 and 112 attys work great on my 5V Prodigy. And I'm betting that they'll do very well on a box mod (with a 3.7V 900 mAh 14500 battery) I plan to purchase.
But that is just speculation on my part.
To find out more, check out the DSE 801 *Penstyle*, RN-4072 *Penstyle*, M-201 *Penstyle* Model Specific Discussion forums, as well as the E-cig Technical Issues forum.
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Further follow up:
Yes there is a break-in period for new atomizers. But usually it's in getting more vapor out of them. Atomizers need to be wet to perform best so after you blow out the shipping fluid and dry out, you need to put a few drops on the atomizer bridge and then huff it a bit - like trying to keep the fire going on a pipe or cigar - to get the atty going.
But you mentioned in your question that it isn't a vapor thing but a 'hard draw'. The factor of "hard to draw" can be isolated to just a few areas - the atomizer or the cartridge.
My advice would be this:
Make sure everything is cooled down. Take the atomizer only - no battery, no cartridge and 'tailpipe' (ie put your mouth around the opening in the atomizer and draw and blow) to see if the 'hardness' of the draw is in that part.
If so, clean the atty with particular attention to the intakes; the coil should be good on new attys, but just in case you could blow out the atty again - both ends into a paper towel. Try the draw. If ok, then go to the the cartridge.
Take the cartridge only, and blow and suck through the mouthpiece to see if the draw is hard on that part - if so clean that out or change cartridges. I've had to do that a few times with D style carts on my 510 that had a 'moveable floor' that was obstructing the air channel.
Now with both the atty and cart clear and giving a good draw attach the battery and try it. If there is a hard draw now, then clean clean the threads on the battery in case there had been any build up that would obscure the intakes on the atty. In some cases you may have to untighten the atty from the battery at bit because the intakes are misplaced and are obscured by tightening. If that's the case, I'd send the atomizer back, letting the vendor know what you did to determine that.
Yes there is a break-in period for new atomizers. But usually it's in getting more vapor out of them. Atomizers need to be wet to perform best so after you blow out the shipping fluid and dry out, you need to put a few drops on the atomizer bridge and then huff it a bit - like trying to keep the fire going on a pipe or cigar - to get the atty going.
But you mentioned in your question that it isn't a vapor thing but a 'hard draw'. The factor of "hard to draw" can be isolated to just a few areas - the atomizer or the cartridge.
My advice would be this:
Make sure everything is cooled down. Take the atomizer only - no battery, no cartridge and 'tailpipe' (ie put your mouth around the opening in the atomizer and draw and blow) to see if the 'hardness' of the draw is in that part.
If so, clean the atty with particular attention to the intakes; the coil should be good on new attys, but just in case you could blow out the atty again - both ends into a paper towel. Try the draw. If ok, then go to the the cartridge.
Take the cartridge only, and blow and suck through the mouthpiece to see if the draw is hard on that part - if so clean that out or change cartridges. I've had to do that a few times with D style carts on my 510 that had a 'moveable floor' that was obstructing the air channel.
Now with both the atty and cart clear and giving a good draw attach the battery and try it. If there is a hard draw now, then clean clean the threads on the battery in case there had been any build up that would obscure the intakes on the atty. In some cases you may have to untighten the atty from the battery at bit because the intakes are misplaced and are obscured by tightening. If that's the case, I'd send the atomizer back, letting the vendor know what you did to determine that.
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