I decided to make use of a dead 901 passthrough. I made a 901 manual battery http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/19561-901-manuel-battery-mod.html but after I finished it I realized there was no way to charge it. So after some manual vaping to kill the battery I stripped it down to use the shell for a manual passthrough.
I dont have much experience in electronics or soldering, taking that into consideration it was still pretty easy.I will try to explain it as simple as possible.
I am sure most people have dead passthroughs kickin around somewhere and bet this will work for almost any passthrough model as there is nothing much in the battery shell.
The only parts I needed besides the dead passthrough was a tact switch and cap that cost .28cents. The link above has the info on where to get the switch and cap.
First thing was to gut the old passthrough. I Pulled out the brass threaded end with some heat and force. Then I unsoldered the 2 wires between the electronics and the adapter and then unsoldered the 3 wires from the other end of the electronics. At this point you can pull all the wires from the battery tube. Theres 3 wires coming from the cap end, red wire is + from USB port, black is ground from usb port and blue(could be another color) is the switch leg for the led.
The next step was to drill 3/16" hole in the batt shell for the tact switch. You could put the hole anywhere you feel comfortable. I put mine as close to the adapter end as possible. I recommend some kind of fixture or jig to hold the shell while you drill. THe shell is S.S. and doesnt drill so easily.
Now you put the wires back in the shell from the cap end and start the soldering(ughhh!!!). I attached a pretty crud schematic so you can get a visual. Make sure you feed the USB cable wires through the shell before you staret soldering. The tact switch I used has only 2 contacts so its pretty easy not to get them confused. The red wire From the passthrough cable gets soldered to one of the contacts on the tact. The black wire from the passthrough cable gets soldered directly to outer ring(Ground) on the atty adapter. The blue wire from the passthrough cable and the red wire from the center pin( positive) of the atty adapter get soldered to the remaining terminal on the tact switch. So basically you have a 5v hot lead to from the USB to one contact on the tact. When you press the switch it sends power to the atty and the led at the same time. Now you need to make sure all your connections are taped. Any uncovered connections on the hot side can short out on the inside of the shell
You slide everything into the tube from the atty end, let it all hang out the cap end until you get your tact switch lined up with your hole. When the tact is lined up you can snap your cap on to the switch. now hold down the cap to keep the switch lined up properly and put some crazy glue(Gel) or hot glue to hold it in position. once it sets up you can check your alignment and make sure the switch clicks freely. Press your adapter back into the shell with some glue and push all the wires in from the cap end and glue that back on as well.
I would check for continuity and shorts with a meter before you slide everything into the shell and again after.My meter was reading 6.23volts off my USB port at the atty connection. I didnt feel the need to lower voltage because a Think the actual "UNDER LOAD" voltage would be closer to 5v. Please someone correct me If I am wrong (I dont want to give out the wrong info)
I forget to take pictures along the way but I have a couple that can give you a good visual
PS: Please excuse the sausage fingers in the last pic
Cheers
Cisco....
I dont have much experience in electronics or soldering, taking that into consideration it was still pretty easy.I will try to explain it as simple as possible.
I am sure most people have dead passthroughs kickin around somewhere and bet this will work for almost any passthrough model as there is nothing much in the battery shell.
The only parts I needed besides the dead passthrough was a tact switch and cap that cost .28cents. The link above has the info on where to get the switch and cap.
First thing was to gut the old passthrough. I Pulled out the brass threaded end with some heat and force. Then I unsoldered the 2 wires between the electronics and the adapter and then unsoldered the 3 wires from the other end of the electronics. At this point you can pull all the wires from the battery tube. Theres 3 wires coming from the cap end, red wire is + from USB port, black is ground from usb port and blue(could be another color) is the switch leg for the led.
The next step was to drill 3/16" hole in the batt shell for the tact switch. You could put the hole anywhere you feel comfortable. I put mine as close to the adapter end as possible. I recommend some kind of fixture or jig to hold the shell while you drill. THe shell is S.S. and doesnt drill so easily.
Now you put the wires back in the shell from the cap end and start the soldering(ughhh!!!). I attached a pretty crud schematic so you can get a visual. Make sure you feed the USB cable wires through the shell before you staret soldering. The tact switch I used has only 2 contacts so its pretty easy not to get them confused. The red wire From the passthrough cable gets soldered to one of the contacts on the tact. The black wire from the passthrough cable gets soldered directly to outer ring(Ground) on the atty adapter. The blue wire from the passthrough cable and the red wire from the center pin( positive) of the atty adapter get soldered to the remaining terminal on the tact switch. So basically you have a 5v hot lead to from the USB to one contact on the tact. When you press the switch it sends power to the atty and the led at the same time. Now you need to make sure all your connections are taped. Any uncovered connections on the hot side can short out on the inside of the shell
You slide everything into the tube from the atty end, let it all hang out the cap end until you get your tact switch lined up with your hole. When the tact is lined up you can snap your cap on to the switch. now hold down the cap to keep the switch lined up properly and put some crazy glue(Gel) or hot glue to hold it in position. once it sets up you can check your alignment and make sure the switch clicks freely. Press your adapter back into the shell with some glue and push all the wires in from the cap end and glue that back on as well.
I would check for continuity and shorts with a meter before you slide everything into the shell and again after.My meter was reading 6.23volts off my USB port at the atty connection. I didnt feel the need to lower voltage because a Think the actual "UNDER LOAD" voltage would be closer to 5v. Please someone correct me If I am wrong (I dont want to give out the wrong info)
I forget to take pictures along the way but I have a couple that can give you a good visual
PS: Please excuse the sausage fingers in the last pic
Cheers
Cisco....
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All I do is wrap an elastic band around it to hold the switch down when charging, that works fine (though it is more hack then I like).
