A bigger switchless copper mod

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crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
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Here's the big brother to the ½" mod detailed at this link: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/45125-switchless-copper-pipe-mod.html

This one is for the 18650 battery and ¾" copper pipe. I used a piece cut to 81 mm, two end caps, a small piece of 16 mm OD compression spring, a ¼" non-threaded weld-on stud, a rat shack ¼" phone jack, a screw that is for securing an electrical wall plate and a very weird piece that works like a champ for the insulator.

The red piece is a soft plastic plug that comes with all the cheap Harbor Freight multi-meters. These things are plugged into the meter end of the leads to protect the terminals during shipping. They're a perfect fit in the phone jack. With an appropriately sized hole in the end, it's a great insulator for any 801 mod using the rat shack phone jack.

I like this monster much better than the ½" copper mod. Never mind the huge battery capacity, my 18650's are running about 18.5 mm in diameter. The ¾" pipe is 20.25 mm inside diameter. This allows for a much better slop factor than the 14500's in the ½" pipe. Plus, it fits my hand a lot better.

Total investment (with copper, spring, phone jack and a battery) is around $10. One battery will power a standard 801 atomizer .for several days in a two PV rotation.

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BBAssembleorder.jpg
 

crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
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Baja Alabama
I like these for a lot of reasons, not the least of which is no switches, wires or soldering although the first pipe mod I did (with a half-amp rat shack micro-switch in the tail cap to break the ground) is still doing fine. It's been trouble free and in daily use by my wife since last May. (http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/18331-pipe-mod-v-1-0-a.html)

I also like the fact these non-switched things can be completely disassembled to the elemental components in seconds and there's nothing to fail or break. A complete cleaning requires only a few more seconds and a few squares of toilet paper. And then there's the fact they're virtually indestructible. Drop it off the roof or back over it with your truck. If the atomizer survives, it will work. Try that with a plastic project box. Those things break up on me if I look at them wrong.

I don't care for the industrial look but I think if I mount the end caps on a small arbor and relieve the sharp edges, the appearance will greatly improve. One thing about the copper, though, once you do the initial buff with 0000 steel wool, they keep a mirror shine if you use them every day..
 

Rocketman

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May 3, 2009
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Is there any insulation to keep the battery from contacting the inside of the tube?
Or the front spring from contacting the front of the battery shell (negative contact)?

Either of these two conditions look like they would bypass the protection circuit on the battery.

Or does the plastic covering on the battery take care of that?

Thanks,
 

crazyhorse

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Apr 17, 2009
575
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Baja Alabama
The thingy is a PGZ Weld Pin

I've been using these (14500 and 18650) mods for a year and a half and haven't had a problem with any kind of short or loss of battery insulation. So far, three 14500's and two 18650's have failed due to other causes. Chip issues, I think.

They mods themselves are bulletproof and trouble-free.
 

iuseaspork

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Jul 2, 2011
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I know this is old, but has anyone tried heat shrink tubing on the outside for a sort of rubberized finish. You could put it together tightly then heat shrink it then use a razor knife to cut around the edges where it comes apart. I think I might try this very soon!

My first VERY rough 14500 version (Note. Battery does not move, just the "sex bolt") :
IMG_20110827_164703.jpg
 
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