Switchless copper pipe mod

[crazyhorse]

Dazed,

Sorry, I don't know what to tell you other than make sure you hone the ends of your cylinder to ensure there are no edges left from the pipe cutting. If you use a tubing cutter it will leave edges on the inside that will definitely cut up your battery when you slide it in or out. Also, you may want to steel wool the bore to ensure it's clean and smooth.

I've been using mine for three months (every day/all day) with no problems at all but I rotate 8 batteries between two of these copper pipe mods and a nicostick. Honestly, I can't visualize how you could wear off the battery cover unless your battery is swollen and binding in the pipe. Do your batteries slide freely in the pipe?

I've recently built the big brother to this mod using a 18650 and ¾" copper. I'll post on it sometime soon.

 

[OH Tommy]

. . . . I've recently built the big brother to this mod using a 18650 and ¾" copper. I'll post on it sometime soon.

.

TYVM ... Good job!

My pic is of a "Hitch Pin" ... these are readily available at auto supply shops, trailer shops and farm supply stores in various sizes.

 

[crazyhorse]

Nice find. I have a box of the various sizes of the hitch clips that go down to 3/32" but I hadn't thought of looking for the pins. They should work nicely for a plunger/switch.

 

[wingerlight]

Great idea! Since i'm a wannabe modder this will be perfect for a first time project. Tenk you veddy much.

 

[northome]

Been using your pipe mod for about two weeks and it works good! I did find that you have to use thin walled copper pipe and not type "L". Other wise batteries won't fit.

Also when I epoxied the battery connector to the coper cap, the epoxy insulated the two from each other and blocked the current from flowing (even though it was a tight fit). I had to add a couple of solder traces between the adapter and copper to complete the circuit. For the plunger "thingy" I found what we used to call a sex bolt at the local Menards. It's a bolt with a matching elongated stem..... I'll try to send a picture. Thanks for the idea!

 

[crazyhorse]

A picture of the sex bolt would be great. I don't have the foggiest idea what that is.

I guess I got lucky with the copper pipe. I use plain ol' hardware store copper water pipe for house plumbing. That's the only kind I really know about.

I've never used a standard battery connector. Since I have a donor 801 battery, I'll have a look at it. I always use the rat shack phone jacks which are held in place with a threaded nut. Guaranteed good electrical connection.

 

[WillyB]

Been using your pipe mod for about two weeks and it works good! I did find that you have to use thin walled copper pipe and not type "L". Other wise batteries won't fit.

Also when I epoxied the battery connector to the coper cap, the epoxy insulated the two from each other and blocked the current from flowing (even though it was a tight fit). I had to add a couple of solder traces between the adapter and copper to complete the circuit. For the plunger "thingy" I found what we used to call a sex bolt at the local Menards. It's a bolt with a matching elongated stem..... I'll try to send a picture. Thanks for the idea!

Good idea. There are quite a few types.

 

[HippyGirl]

The last one is what I used for the copper pipe mod only mine are not rounded on the ends. I have several different lengths, from 1" down to 3/16ths...they work great.

 

[WillyB]

The last one is what I used for the copper pipe mod only mine are not rounded on the ends. I have several different lengths, from 1" down to 3/16ths...they work great.

Did you finish the mod? Last post I thought you were having problems implementing the switch?

 

[HippyGirl]

Did you finish the mod? Last post I thought you were having problems implementing the switch?

I did get it to working, but I just didn't like the plunger in the bottom. What I "wanted" to do was have it so that you push down on the atty end it fires with nothing sticking out of the bottom.

Basically, I got side-tracked and never went back to it, but crazyhorse posted something in my thread, so I'm going to re-visit it this week.

S

 

[crazyhorse]

Since the top compression spring (what breaks the circuit) is the most important part of this mod, I suppose it would be nice if I share what I know about them. I've taken some measurements of what I'm using and what I know to work properly.

The spring I use for the ½" pipe is made out of wire that measures 1.18 mm (0.05" which equates to a 16 AWG). The uncompressed coils are spread by 3.65 mm. The spring for the ¾" mod is made from 1.25 mm wire and the coils are spread by 6.65 mm.

I set these mods up so that 1-2 mm of battery movement activates the atomizer. You set this parameter with pipe length. Cut your pipe about 5 mm too long, do a rough assembly to measure the exact length you need and then trim it to size. If necessary, you could fine tune with the length of the insulated, sliding positive terminal.

Due to the large amount of slop room in the ¾" pipe with the 18650, I use a spring tension that requires around 700 grams of force applied to the plunger to move the battery and light the coil. Since the 14500 battery in the ½" pipe is a much tighter fit, I have mine set so that it requires 1300 grams of force for activation. The reason I want more force here is because of battery tightness and to ensure the spring expansion is more than enough to move the battery away from the positive terminal. You set this parameter by length of the compression spring. Both of these amounts of force are light enough that it's an easy deal to use the inside of your little finger to provide the compression. This doesn't require any exceptional amount of hand strength. My wife finds it very easy to do.

The only place you'll find springs like this is at an old timey hardware store of the type that still has the long lines of metal chests with the compartmented drawers holding a multitude of miscellaneous odd, small hardware parts. A place like this may have an entire bank of various compression springs. Best thing to do is go with your micrometer and search through the supply until you find something similar. Most of the springs I find most suitable come in lengths of 3-6" and cost a couple dollars each. Each spring will provide the material for doing many mods although the two ends are most suitable. The middles are also usable but you'll need to re-form the ends so you don't have a sharp point poking your battery.

 

[OH Tommy]

. . . . . For the plunger "thingy" I found what we used to call a sex bolt at the local Menards. It's a bolt with a matching elongated stem..... I'll try to send a picture. Thanks for the idea!

.

LOL @ sex-bolt ... those are known as "Chicago Screws" or "Chicago Screw Posts" - just in case you have to ask at an Ace or someplace!

Mostly, you see them in aluminum. I got a lot of hits on Google and they're even available in brass to almost match this project.

.

 

[Tanner S Hyde]

I did get it to working, but I just didn't like the plunger in the bottom. What I "wanted" to do was have it so that you push down on the atty end it fires with nothing sticking out of the bottom.

Basically, I got side-tracked and never went back to it, but crazyhorse posted something in my thread, so I'm going to re-visit it this week.

S

YES! I've been thinking about that very "switchless" design (atty pressure activated) I like the way you think!!!

 

[HippyGirl]

YES! I've been thinking about that very "switchless" design (atty pressure activated) I like the way you think!!!

The "Copper" works this way...

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/modders-forum/59233-mod-copper-pipe-end-caps.html#post886963

...but for the life of me, I cannot wrap my mind around how the atty doesn't fall out of the top of the thing (don't laugh...that's the best way I can think of right now to say it). It looks like the battery connector is mounted into some sort of fitting, then the top cap would go over THAT, and finally the atty is screwed into the connector through the cap ...and that's where my gray matter goes all gloppy.

I reeeeeeeeeeally wish someone would post a clear pic of the top assembly (but I do understand why they wouldn't, KWIM?).

 

[crazyhorse]

Best way to find out is buy one. Easy deal.

 

[HippyGirl]

Best way to find out is buy one. Easy deal.

Nah! Too much $$$ to spend on generic parts from the hardware store.

If I was going to spend that much on a commercial mod, I'd have to go with one of the others.

I'll eventually figure it out.

 

[crazyhorse]

Haha, I'd have a hard time with that too.

I hope you get it figured out. IIRC, the posted info was kinda vague and seemed to make for a fairly complicated little machine but I didn't look very closely. I never cared for the idea of mouth activation.

Since you're an Alabama person, PM me and I'll try to help you with one of these simple pipe mods. Once you get it right, it works very nicely. I'm especially liking the 18650 variety. It's even simpler than the smaller one. Not sure how or why it happened but the "switch" in mine even has a nice little click feel to it. I set it so it needs to move 1.1 mm to light the atomizer.

 

[sunsetnkc]

I liked this idea and wanted to use my 18650 batteries, but didn't lie the idea of the battery having to move to connect. I also added the RCA mod on the atty end. I soldered a small spring to the atty end RCA center, then used the post screw with a couple nylon bushings from the hardware store, and put my swtch spring on the exterior. Then to solve the easy way to hold the end on and then remove it to change batteries, I filed two grooves on the sides of the end cap and into the main battery holder. I then use a rubber O-ring to secure them together. Working great so far.

Pics:

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/yy112/sunsetnkc/IMG_3357.jpg

 

[crazyhorse]

That looks good and solves the problem most people will have with locating the proper compression spring. The right spring is not something you can find at HD, Lowz or Ace.

There's a much cleaner way to secure those end caps. All you have to do is use a small ballpeen hammer and something substantial like the anvil portion of a vise. Just give the cap ends a few light taps on opposing sides. This tightens them up very nicely while leaving them easily removable for maintenance.

 

[sunsetnkc]

Have been using this with my 18650 battery for about 3 weeks now. works great and only cost about 5 bucks to make. My wife uses one just like it, but shorter with an 18500 battery. switch is working great, no problems.