A few inqueries...

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Vego

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Hello REOS folks. May I pick your brains? Some of these questions could easily be asked in a different sub-forum, but because I'm strongly considering a REOS, AND because you folks here are really helpful, I thought I'd just ask away here.

1. What is this 18490 model/battery?

2. I'm a fairly new vaper having experience only with the ego-t. I think the ego batt is 3.4v(?) and drops down lower as you vape for a while. I think this is the case... please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm wondering what kind of difference there is in moving to 3.7v vaping from ego vaping? Is it quite significant... or bearly noticable?

3. I often hear that 4.5v-4.8v vaping is the sweet spot for a lot of folks. Yet it seems all mods are either 3.7v, 5v, 6v or VV. Isn't there a battery that provides somewhere around 4.5v from the get go? And if so, why don't modders use it when creating a non-VV mod?

I think that's it. Thank you for any information. :)
 

davelog

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1. It's a battery size, 3.7v, with higher mah than the 14500 battery that the Mini uses. It's also a model of REO that Robert is working on right now, that uses that battery. It's basically a Mini with more life.

2. I went from an eGo-T to a REO, so I can say honestly that it's a different style of vaping, but it's more satisfying. I find on the eGo, I'm always tugging at it, chain-vaping. With my Grand, I take a few toots and then set it down for a while. Sometimes even forget about it. The Grand produces vapor with more body, more flavor, and since I use 4.8v batteries, more heat. The eGo battery is actually 3.2v if it's genuine Joyetech, the knockoffs run at 3.7v.

3. As I said, I dig the 4.8v battery. It actually comes off the charger at 5.8v and then drops down to about 5.4v waiting to cycle into my Grand. I generally can tell when it's about to drop under 5.0v and that's when I swap it out for the next one.
 

Vego

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Hey davelog, thanks a bunch for the info.

I'm still a little in the dark on this 4.8v battery. What is it actually called, and did you have to do anything special (mod-wise) to get it to fit into your Grand? Is it safe to use in the Grand... meaning, will it compress the spring so much as to null the safety feature built into the spring?
 

davelog

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Actually, the Grand is one of the few mods you DON'T have to do anything special to use the 4.8v battery in, most of your tube mods and such make you put a little magnet spacer on top of it because it's a flat top battery. I don't know if it has a battery number (it generally fits in 18650-sized devices).

The 4.8v battery is a trade-off. It is a little higher voltage than a 3.7v battery, so it makes a warmer, more voluminous vape - but they're only 600mah (some are even 400mah), so they don't have a particularly long life. Further, they're unprotected batteries, with no safeguards built into them like the protected batteries (which have a little computer chip in 'em to shut down in the event of a short) or the chemically safe batteries (the IMR's that are recommended for all REOs) so there's a bit more risk involved with using them. The 4.8v's also seem to lose voltage during their drain cycle faster than the IMR's, which are famous for holding a high voltage output for most of their drain cycle. With the 4.8v's it's pretty much a steady decline from the first drag.

It's totally subjective whether or not the exchange of safety, drain rate, and time between recharges is worth it. I found 6v vaping too hot for my tastes, and using the 4.8's gives me everything I liked about 6v without flash-frying the back of my throat so for me, it's perfect.

edit: about the spring - they're actually a little shorter than the recommended AW IMR's so compressing the spring isnt' a problem. If you go for one of those bigass 3000mah 18650's, though, they squash that spring flat. The extra mah has to come from somewhere, and in 18650's it's height.
 

Mudflap

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Vego: The advantage of the AW IMR batteries is that they can deliver the wattage demanded by low resistance atomizers. Atomizers can be had in a variety of different resistances, so you can match the low resistance (LR) atomizer to your preference and the AW IMR battery will deliver the energy they need to perform at their best.

Or you can stack two AW LiFePO4 RCR 123a batteries in a Grand for "6 volt" vaping. Each battery is rated at 3.0 to 3.2 volts and probably come off the charger measuring close to 3.6 volts each. Paired with a 2.5 to 3.0 ohm atomizer, these batteries are probably delivering just under 6 volts under load. I say "probably" because I don't have this set up and I'm going by what I've read.

davelog covered the 4.8 volt NiMH batteries very well. I personally don't like using them that much and I'd throw them at davelog if he was in range. :p

Last tip that I've read many times over: Tobacco flavors tend to taste best with 1.5 & 1.8 ohm atomizers and sweeter flavors tend to taste best at 2.0 to 2.5 ohms. There are also different brands and types of atomizers which have their own unique qualities that affect the quality of your vape. i.e. - 510, 306, hybrids attys, 801, and 901.

My first VV Reo will be a wood version and have an 801 atomizer connection. I'll probably use 2.5 ohm BE112 (same threads as an 801) atomizer with this mod. My second VV Reo will be a metal version with a 510 atomizer connection. I'll use 2.5 ohm HH .357 atomizers with that mod, if I can get any.

I hope that helps some. :)
 

washvap

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Davelog and Mudflap pretty much covered it. Just wanted to add my personal opinions as well.

2. The Ego is a 3.4V battery but, it's regulated. Which means that it will hold the charge until the very end. I used an ego-t in the beginning as well. I was very happy with it but, the REO outperforms it by a mile. Also, you don't have to refill as often, especially with the Grand. Which holds 6ml of juice. If you only vape 2ml of juice a day then it'll last obviously 3 days for you. That alone is a good reason to get a REO. Same concept but, with improved performance.

3. A good amount of people don't really like going higher then 3.7V, me included. I prefer a good 1.5 ohm atomizer and it's just as good as a 4.8V batt with a 2.5 ohm atomizer. Also, it's kind of a pain to get extra batteries, atomizers/cartomizers, and charger which can be expensive. Which the money saved can be used as funds for another REO.
 

mlinky

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Just my 2 cents, I started with an eGo at 3.4v and enjoyed 2ohm cartos on them. I find the difference vaping a REO to be significant, and gratifying. The AW IMR batteries come off the charger at 4.2v, and I change them out somewhere between 3.7v and 3.8v. I use 1.5ohm attys, which work well with my juice. Occasionally, if I get a strong craving, I will pop in a couple of batteries to get 6v, and change to a carto. I will probably get a VV REO, but I don't feel like I need one.
 

Vego

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Awesome info guys... thank you very much.

To be honest, I'm finding a LOT of satisfaction from my ego along with a lr 510 atty... or even a 306 (though I havn't tried a lr version of that yet... looking to get Cisco lr 306 soon) 100%vg or 50/50 blends are giving me a fine amount of vapor and flavor... but often, it's like davelog says in that I find myself pullling really hard and long to get what I need at certain high-craving moments. I'm hoping this mostly will be aleviated by moving to 3.7v.

But the main reason for considering a REO now is, being in the delivery business and driving all day, while I love dripping, I've come to realize that bottom feeder is really the way to go for a vaper on the move. Especially if cartos annoy you the way they do me, and you want the freshness and flavor of the dripping experience. Oh... the simplicity, gotta have it. Plus... who says I can't drip anymore just because I use a REO, right? Actually, I really love the idea of dripping into the catch-cup to test liquids. Do you guys find that easier to do when on the move than dripping into the drip tip?
 
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