A few questions

[TripleZoom]

So, I'm just starting out building mods and I need some info.

1. What is the smallest wire I can get that could safely handle 6 amps @6v? That's the top end of what would go through it...Honestly, it probably won't hit that. And where would I purchase it? I'd like to get several different colors. I'm going to follow Mamu's guide for "Dena." http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ena-vv-mod-denalis-lil-sis-step-step-how.html She says 26awg, is that ok? Seems a bit small, but I'm sure it would be easy to work with. From what I've gathered high strand count copper wire with silicone insulation is what I want right?
2. What kind of solder should I get? Lots of lead free solders out there, and i'd like to know the best for a beginner or anyone really for this purpose. And in Mamu's guide it says to add flux to all the posts of the ORK-T/6, so what kind of flux do I need? Isn't rosin core enough? I know with such small gauge solder there can't be much rosin, so I figured the extra flux was becaise they're crucial joints and I really don't wanna overheat it!
3. What kind of epoxy should I get? Not very familiar with epoxy, so some general recomendations would be good. Just the 5 minute kind?
4. I need to buy a charger. Can't quite get myself to shell out for a PILA, so what's a good choice? Preferably one super t sells cause I'm gonna grab my batts from there I think.

So, that about covers it....At least the stuff I can remember haha I'm real glad to have this forum. I'm gonna start ordering all my parts tonight or tmw...Hopefully tonight if I can figure out what all I should get and where...Don't wanna get killed with shipping. I tried using the search on some of the specific questions but the results are so broad I end up spending an hour reading about something completely unrelated

 

[CraigHB]

Hello and welcome,

1) Wire resistance becomes worthy of consideration at the higher currents we use for an atomizer. You can safely go as small as 24 AWG as long as the wire has a little room to breath for heating. 26 AWG is probably okay too. The wire won't get hot enough to burn anything, but wire resistance greatly increases with heat. The thinner the wire and the more confined it is, the more it will heat up. Wire that's too heavy becomes hard to work with. So, it's a trade-off for power loss in the wiring and what is practical to work with. I find 22 or 20 AWG a good trade-off for flexibility and resistance. Some people will go as heavy as 18 AWG. Here's a wire resistance chart to give you an idea. Power loss is going to be current squared times resistance.

2) You want to avoid lead-free solder if possible. As long as you don't put leaded solder in your mouth and chew on it, it's safe enough. Lead free solders have a much higher melting point and don't wet or flow as easily. For someone who is not an expert at soldering, lead free solder will probably give you fits. The exception is in a juice soaked environment like an atomizer tank. In that case, lead-free solder is required for obvious reasons.

My favorite solder for electronics work is 63% Tin (Sn) and 37% lead (Pb). It has the lowest melting point and that particular ratio is eutectic which means it solidifies very fast when cooling. Makes soldering easier. 62/36/2 is less common, but is also eutectic and has a melting temperature even a couple degrees lower than 63/37. The "2" is for 2% Ag (silver).

You want wire solder with a rosin flux core. Rosin flux works especially well on copper, nickel, and tin and is best for electrical connections. Rosins are available in different varieties. Standard is activated rosin which requires isopropyl alcohol for cleaning. You can also get water soluble rosins that make residue clean up possible with water. I prefer the activated rosins because they have the best wetting properties. The solder flows really well with those, but the residue is not as easy to clean up. I just use the 99% isopropyl you get at the drug store and it works plenty well enough.

4) The inexpensive chargers you can get from e-cig shops work just fine. You should get a good one if you can (like a Pila), but if that's not possible, you can get by with a cheapie. I have one since I don't use a round cell charger very often. I've been using LiPo flat cells in my mods with built-in USB charging. The cheapie I have does the job no problem and measures well within specs. Check the terminal voltage once in a while. In other words, measure the battery right after it's done charging and make sure it's 4.2V plus or minus 30mV. Also, as a safety precaution, don't leave your cells in the charger for extended periods after they're done.

Have fun!

 

[TripleZoom]

Very thorough, thank you! I was kind of hoping for a go ahead on the 63/37 because I'm new. I might go ahead and get some lead feee to try and if I can use it alright, I'll use it for the atomizer connection. It's gonna be in a 4xaa box with plenty of room to breath, so I'll probably go with 24g since it's my first mod and there's lots of wires I need to fit in there. And what about a seperate flux? What kind should I get?

 

[TripleZoom]

Ok, so should I go ahead and buy a soldering station? Would it make life easier in the long run? I'm strongly considering the Hakko FX-888 because of all the good reviews and reasonable price. Or would it be a bit over the top? It's either that or the $20 solder station from Fry's.

 

[CraigHB]

Welcome,

24 AWG should be fine.

I use this flux pen when I need to apply additional flux.

Variable temperature is the main feature you need in a soldering iron. The Weller WES51 is a relatively inexpensive and quality station. I use a WESD51 myself which is the same one, but with a digital temperature readout. The Hakko units are also good quality and relatively inexpensive. Weller makes the WLC100 variable temp station which can be found for around $40, but you should get the better one if you can afford it.

Check out Tequipment.net for soldering stations here. They have a lot of listings but no discounts. You can look around for better prices once you decide on a make and model.

 

[TripleZoom]

Thanks, that flux pen looks like what I'll need. I went ahead and ordered the FX-888 because all the reviews I read were positive, it's reasonably priced, temp regulated, variable temp, and has the nifty brass tip cleaner and sponge. I've seen the 888 compared to the WES51, and it was right in my price range. Honestly, a little above ATM, but I think it's a worthy investment And I like the fact that the grip is further up then most cheapy irons. Gonna get a set of helping hands due to recomendations here as well. Again, I appreciate all the help.

 

[Foxfur]

If you can afford a Hakko, buy it! I guarantee you won't be disappointed.

 

[TripleZoom]

Yep, I went ahead and bought it.

 

[CraigHB]

Yea, it's definitely a nice unit. I would have bought that one over the Weller if it was available with a digital readout. Though, it's not really a big feature. If my Weller dies, I may replace it with that Hakko anyway.

When it comes to tools, I believe in making the investment. They can usually provided a lifetime of service and there's nothing worse than wishing you had something better when doing a project. Better to have it and not use it than not have it and need it.

 

[nicotime]

Yep, I went ahead and bought it.

It is a sweet iron....I just got one myself as I was tired of waiting for my third RS iron to heat up all the time and the tips were worthless. The Hakko is up to temp within a minute and keeps it right on the money.

 

[TripleZoom]

I'm pretty excited about it, they shipped ut early this morning. All the reviews I've read were stellar. And I ordered all my mod parts They should all be here roughly the same time. Still need to get to radio shack and get some helping hands, but other than that I'm set! This is gonna be sweet, can't wait for VV. I love my ego, but damn, I know these juices have more punch. And I try not to go below 1.7ohm with it so I don't fry it, especially since there is always some discrepency one way or the other. I also got a "modder's stethoscope," aka multimeter. The only thing I'm a little disappointed about is they didn't have the stainless steel button I really wanted. I got one in the same product line, so I hope it's nice and clicky. The one I wanted: Digi-Key - EG4729-ND (Manufacturer - PV5S640SS) And the one I settled for, but I do like it: Digi-Key - EG4725-ND (Manufacturer - PV5S64017) And, since I got the voltmeter and OVERPRICED 510 connection at madvapes, I went ahead and ordered a few stainless carto tanks. 3 actually =) They seemed like a good deal. I like cartomizers ok, just only while they're all the way full so I figured i'd give the tanks a shot. I figured I'm paying shipping anyways might as well make it work it

 

[Rocketman]

ZoomZoomZoom,

you need to cut back on the caffeine

Good luck modding. So much fun it is

 

[CraigHB]

can't wait for VV

I actually started vaping with an eGo. My first experience with VV was a direct passthru I made using a VV power supply, shortly after I started vaping. It's really hard to use a standard device once you've used a VV (or VW). You're in for a big treat.

 

[SammyT]

I don't know if you bought a charger yet (I bet you did) but I would recommend the ultra fire wf-188. I got the 139 and now I have to make a charging adapter to be able to charge 26500 and 26650 cells. Not a big deal but kind of a PITA. Happy modding


-Sam

 

[TripleZoom]

I don't know if you bought a charger yet (I bet you did) but I would recommend the ultra fire wf-188. I got the 139 and now I have to make a charging adapter to be able to charge 26500 and 26650 cells. Not a big deal but kind of a PITA. Happy modding


-Sam

Yeah, I was gonna get the WF-188 in case I ever decided to use 26500 cells. Unfortunately Super T was out of stock so I got the TR-001 instead. I just got it in the mail today. It seems to charge my AW IMR 14500s fairly well. The light turned green and I metered them @ 4.21.

I've got one more question that hasn't been answered yet: What kind of epoxy do I need to get? You know, to mount the atty connector, POT, etc.

 

[Hogwart]

I use Loctite 1365736 Epoxy Two Part Professional Heavy Duty 5 Minute and it works rather well

 

[TripleZoom]

Dang, I almost bought that epoxy while I was at lowes today but I thought that was probably not the right kind, and since it was rather large and on the expensive side I didn't get it. But, I work there so I get a 10% discount. Just sucks now I have to go back to get it! I saw some loctite epoxy that had a "precision applicator" tip, two actually and I almost got it. I was looking at both those then decided to wait for some advice from the pros. Will any epoxy be heat resistant? And anything that says it'll bond to plastic? Hmmm....Now that I think about it, the heavy duty loctite I saw said 60 minutes to set on the back. Maybe I'm thinking of the wrong one since I read so many labels and was in a bit of a hurry. But I know they had the kind that looked similar to the kind you linked to, had the two seperate bottles. Fairly large ones I might add. Wasn't sure exactly how I would apply it with any sort of accuracy? The closest thing I've used to epoxy is JB weld if that tells you anything.

 

[Hogwart]

I get a bunch of the thick card stock paint swatches from the paint dept then cut them up into smaller squares to mix little amounts of epoxy on with a round toothpick. I use the toothpick to apply.
That epoxy will work just fine on plastic.

 

[TripleZoom]

Nice. I'll get some of this: Loctite 1365736 Epoxy Two Part Professional Heavy Duty 5 Minute tmw. On the bright side, I'll be set on epoxy for a good long while.