In the interest of being either very helpful or completely pointless I suggest to the OP to use a VW device. Since I've done that I don't care anymore about ohms. Ohms, scmohms.
A question about ohms/volts
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undead, a "B & M" refers to any brick and mortar store, meaning a retail location rather than an online store.
Ohhh. Duh.
I have no brick and mortar stores that sell ecig stuff around me. I have to do it all online.
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There are a few around here in austin, there are also some really knowledgable ones as well. I just couldn't let the kid go on spreading misinformation. I am new to the "APV" thing but not new at all to basic electric theory, and even a tiny bit beyond that. I have made it a point to start visiting all the local retailers, it's not an obsession, no sir not at all.
I can top that. I had stocked up back in 09 when we had the first FDA scare, so hadn't bought hardware in a while. I wander into my first B&M when my last 510 atty dies and want to see what's new. I mention to the clerk (who also happens to be the owner's kid) that I like to vape at 5 volts and was thinking about trying out the new VV devices I've been hearing about. He says "we have thousand volts" and shows me a 1000 mah ego. I left. Some of my coworkers have been buying starter gear there and saying how helpful he was so I decided to check the guy out, see if he's learned a little. I call and the conversation goes something like this
Me:"I'm looking for batteries for my mech, do you have the 3400 mah pannys?"
Dip....: "you need batteries for what?"
Me: "For my mech. Do you have the 3400 mah pannys?"
Dip....: "No, all I've got are 18650s"
Me: "18650 is a size, I'm interested in the milli amp hours"
Dip....: "I don't even know where to find that"
Me: "look at the negative end, there will be a bunch of numbers and the letters m-a-h"
Dip.... "2200?"
Me: "Okay, now what chemistry are they?"
Dip....: " I dunno, they're blue and they have a protection circuit thingy". As soon as I got to work I told everybody not to buy anything there unless they knewexactly what they were after and never ask this dude for advice.
I wouldn't buy anything from there period. If he doesn't know the material, he shouldn't work there.
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Who would name their kid "Dip".
And really degnr8, I can't understand why you didn't buy the pretty blue ones with the protection circuit "thingy"...
OMG........
Fortunately we have a couple other B&Ms in the area. They didn't have those either but at least knew what I was talking about and have IMRs
There are two versions of the iTaste MVP:
The first/original one is variable voltage only. Still a great mod and an excellent value for only $40 - 50 for the kit.
The new version 2 has both variable voltage and variable wattage, with a built-in ohm meter and minor improvements over version one for about $20 more.
All concepts about AC apply to DC as DC is a conceptual subset of AC with a frequency of zero. Resistance is an impedance with a reactance of zero, because with f=0, the reactance term falls off. It's not equal to zero, it's equal to the resistance, without any added reactance in the j axis.
Get things right if you are going to correct people.
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So if I'm searching for a low impendence coil...what am I looking for? That would be an infinite number of resistances. Since they all equal 0..
Edit- Yeah, that was wrong..phase angle will equal-0. der.
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Impedance is NOT equal to zero in DC, that was my point, it reduces to the same thing as resistance when frequency is zero (DC). I don't want to over complicate things from that post I just had to pedantically correct incorrect pedantic correction of pedantics.
Just do a mental search and replace every time you hear of "impedance" in ecigs and replace it with "Resistance". Unless you start engineering AC electronics, 1ohm impedance is 1ohm resistance. 2ohm impedance is 2 ohm resistance.
The concept that supercedes volts/ohms and especially watts is HEAT. We want to make heat to vaporize liquid.
Electricity is flowing electrons. Electrons literally moving through a substance, like a river. Electrical Current is just like river current except instead of flowing water we have flowing electrons. Current makes heat because the electrons create "friction" as they move through a substance.
Resistance is how much your substance tries to stop the electrons from moving. Voltage is how hard you push them, to overcome the resistance. Two forces are fighting, voltage is pushing electrons forward, resistance is trying to hold them in place. The speed that the electrons flow given x push and y resistance is called current, how much current is flowing in this "electron river". If you raise the resistance, you have to push harder to get the same current (speed). If you lower the resistance, you get more current (speed) given the same push.
With mechanical mods, we don't have control over the voltage (it's what comes directly out of the battery), so we adjust our current and watts by raising or lowering the resistance of the coils we wrap. With a VV mod, theoretically you should be able to crank up your volts to combat higher resistance to get the same amount of heat coming out. VW (variable wattage) mods attempt to do this automatically, under the premise it can calculate the proper voltage to put on a given resistance (which the device measures before putting out any volts) to give you a consistent vape between different resistance coils/attys. If this works so well, why does resistance matter?
We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps. A high resistance coil has a thinner (higher gauge) coil-wire, it gets hotter faster because it has higher resistance (more friction at the same current) and also it has less metal to heat up. A lower resistance coil has more metal to heat up. We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps, this creates not just a hot coil but a *heat gradient* on the wick. A high resistance coil gets hot really fast in a small area, which does not create an even heat gradient. It can be burning the juice on one point of the wick, and not even vaporizing it .25 mm to the side. A LR coil at the same watts heats marginally slower in a bigger area and thus more evenly.
All that is merely to say that it's not near as simple as is high or low resistance (impedance) "better", it's complicated and there are plusses and minuses to both, especially depending on the capabilities of the device you are using. The simplest answer is to try a range of resistances given a certain type of atomizer and see what you like best. The super simplest answer (assuming you have a vv device), is just get something with ohms in the middle, and set your volts where it seems the most pleasant to you (whatever that means).
Just do a mental search and replace every time you hear of "impedance" in ecigs and replace it with "Resistance". Unless you start engineering AC electronics, 1ohm impedance is 1ohm resistance. 2ohm impedance is 2 ohm resistance.
The concept that supercedes volts/ohms and especially watts is HEAT. We want to make heat to vaporize liquid.
Electricity is flowing electrons. Electrons literally moving through a substance, like a river. Electrical Current is just like river current except instead of flowing water we have flowing electrons. Current makes heat because the electrons create "friction" as they move through a substance.
Resistance is how much your substance tries to stop the electrons from moving. Voltage is how hard you push them, to overcome the resistance. Two forces are fighting, voltage is pushing electrons forward, resistance is trying to hold them in place. The speed that the electrons flow given x push and y resistance is called current, how much current is flowing in this "electron river". If you raise the resistance, you have to push harder to get the same current (speed). If you lower the resistance, you get more current (speed) given the same push.
With mechanical mods, we don't have control over the voltage (it's what comes directly out of the battery), so we adjust our current and watts by raising or lowering the resistance of the coils we wrap. With a VV mod, theoretically you should be able to crank up your volts to combat higher resistance to get the same amount of heat coming out. VW (variable wattage) mods attempt to do this automatically, under the premise it can calculate the proper voltage to put on a given resistance (which the device measures before putting out any volts) to give you a consistent vape between different resistance coils/attys. If this works so well, why does resistance matter?
We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps. A high resistance coil has a thinner (higher gauge) coil-wire, it gets hotter faster because it has higher resistance (more friction at the same current) and also it has less metal to heat up. A lower resistance coil has more metal to heat up. We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps, this creates not just a hot coil but a *heat gradient* on the wick. A high resistance coil gets hot really fast in a small area, which does not create an even heat gradient. It can be burning the juice on one point of the wick, and not even vaporizing it .25 mm to the side. A LR coil at the same watts heats marginally slower in a bigger area and thus more evenly.
All that is merely to say that it's not near as simple as is high or low resistance (impedance) "better", it's complicated and there are plusses and minuses to both, especially depending on the capabilities of the device you are using. The simplest answer is to try a range of resistances given a certain type of atomizer and see what you like best. The super simplest answer (assuming you have a vv device), is just get something with ohms in the middle, and set your volts where it seems the most pleasant to you (whatever that means).
Well, thanks for a science lesson... Dealing with both AC and DC circuits, most people don't refer to the impendance on a DC circuit. Impendance is generally referenced with magnitudes and phase shifts with harmonic frequencies.. But there is a reason ohm's law was originally formulated with I=V/Z..not V/R
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Sorry for some reason I thought your post #31 had come from OP, #32 was mostly geared towards answering the threads original question.
And I agree you don't normally talk about impedance in a DC circuit, I would have left it alone except the additional statement that impedance is zero in DC was false. Z = R + jX and X=0 when f=0, thus when f=0, Z=R Also because I'm a jerk in the morning.
Anyway, I agree, by convention and to prevent confusion vapers should call it resistance.
And I agree you don't normally talk about impedance in a DC circuit, I would have left it alone except the additional statement that impedance is zero in DC was false. Z = R + jX and X=0 when f=0, thus when f=0, Z=R Also because I'm a jerk in the morning.
Anyway, I agree, by convention and to prevent confusion vapers should call it resistance.
Impedance is NOT equal to zero in DC, that was my point, it reduces to the same thing as resistance when frequency is zero (DC). I don't want to over complicate things from that post I just had to pedantically correct incorrect pedantic correction of pedantics.
Just do a mental search and replace every time you hear of "impedance" in ecigs and replace it with "Resistance". Unless you start engineering AC electronics, 1ohm impedance is 1ohm resistance. 2ohm impedance is 2 ohm resistance.
The concept that supercedes volts/ohms and especially watts is HEAT. We want to make heat to vaporize liquid.
Electricity is flowing electrons. Electrons literally moving through a substance, like a river. Electrical Current is just like river current except instead of flowing water we have flowing electrons. Current makes heat because the electrons create "friction" as they move through a substance.
Resistance is how much your substance tries to stop the electrons from moving. Voltage is how hard you push them, to overcome the resistance. Two forces are fighting, voltage is pushing electrons forward, resistance is trying to hold them in place. The speed that the electrons flow given x push and y resistance is called current, how much current is flowing in this "electron river". If you raise the resistance, you have to push harder to get the same current (speed). If you lower the resistance, you get more current (speed) given the same push.
With mechanical mods, we don't have control over the voltage (it's what comes directly out of the battery), so we adjust our current and watts by raising or lowering the resistance of the coils we wrap. With a VV mod, theoretically you should be able to crank up your volts to combat higher resistance to get the same amount of heat coming out. VW (variable wattage) mods attempt to do this automatically, under the premise it can calculate the proper voltage to put on a given resistance (which the device measures before putting out any volts) to give you a consistent vape between different resistance coils/attys. If this works so well, why does resistance matter?
We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps. A high resistance coil has a thinner (higher gauge) coil-wire, it gets hotter faster because it has higher resistance (more friction at the same current) and also it has less metal to heat up. A lower resistance coil has more metal to heat up. We are putting heat into a coil which heats up a space inside of the coil and between the wraps, this creates not just a hot coil but a *heat gradient* on the wick. A high resistance coil gets hot really fast in a small area, which does not create an even heat gradient. It can be burning the juice on one point of the wick, and not even vaporizing it .25 mm to the side. A LR coil at the same watts heats marginally slower in a bigger area and thus more evenly.
All that is merely to say that it's not near as simple as is high or low resistance (impedance) "better", it's complicated and there are plusses and minuses to both, especially depending on the capabilities of the device you are using. The simplest answer is to try a range of resistances given a certain type of atomizer and see what you like best. The super simplest answer (assuming you have a vv device), is just get something with ohms in the middle, and set your volts where it seems the most pleasant to you (whatever that means).
At first I was afraid..... I was petrified. I thought "oh no... another post I will not understand". But I decided to give it a go and allow my brain to hurt if that was going to be the outcome.
Reverse! This post of yours is going into one of my vape files (not sure which one yet...). Well written and clear, even to those of us lesser pedantics who would like nothing more than to be floating along in our blinged out boats down the infamous electron river.
Thank you so much GunArm.
Impedance is NOT equal to zero in DC, that was my point, it reduces to the same thing as resistance when frequency is zero (DC). I don't want to over complicate things from that post I just had to pedantically correct incorrect pedantic correction of pedantics.
"WORDS"
All that is merely to say that it's not near as simple as is high or low resistance (impedance) "better", it's complicated and there are plusses and minuses to both, especially depending on the capabilities of the device you are using. The simplest answer is to try a range of resistances given a certain type of atomizer and see what you like best. The super simplest answer (assuming you have a vv device), is just get something with ohms in the middle, and set your volts where it seems the most pleasant to you (whatever that means).
The most important part of that was the last paragraph.
You post was well written to the point that I think everyone can understand it but, HOLY CRAP MAN. I remember all that from class now, the stuff I needed to learn to pass the test. In my line of work I just need to know how to measure the components to find the faulty one and replace. I also had to learn how a capacitor actually worked for some reason when I really only needed to know how they act when used for X.
"voltage" "resistance" "load" yep none of what you were looking for replace it and make people happy then move on to the next call.
If you do not actually use all that knowledge everyday +1 for remembering it all.
I have a question about ohm resistance on coils.
Which is better to have, a low ohm resistance, or a high ohm resistance? I heard that the lower the better, but I'm used to higher ohm coils (My Protank is 2.2, and my Vivi nova is 2.4). Which resistance will give me the best overall vape?
I think the best explanation is that it won't make enough difference to matter.
I use 2.4 ohm vivi novas on my provari because they work and are good for all of my other pv's.
I should add that this is with vv devices.
Or we can debate this forever.
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