About to build my first MOD

[blueGrassTubb]

I'd really like to have a SX350 based mod, but there are two problems . . .

1) There is only 1 on the market (which is a pre-order at that).
2) It;s $253, and I don't expect many of them to be much lower than that.

So I decided to jump in and build my own. It won't be anything fancy, but it should work a treat.

Here are the parts I've purchased . . .

1 Hammond 1590ABK
1 18650 battery holder (single cell)
1 16mm Anti-vandal momentary Raised stainless ush button
1 preassembled silver 510 connector
1 SX350 chip

I know that the positive wire to the 510 connector is already wired. I plan on joining the one attached to the connector and the one coming from the board.

Can you guys recommend a good epoxy to hold everything in place? Is JB Weld appropriate? Or is there something better? Can this epoxy be used to hold the board in place?

Is there anything I should be aware of in mod building in general? The SX350 in specific?

 

[Doghead]

I don't think you should use the epoxy to put in anything you might wanna undo later. 510 connector to a cheap box, fine, but a board? I would try to use mechanical fasteners, or a glue that could pull apart later without tearing something up.


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[david4500]

i've been using jb weld clearweld quick setting epoxy for battery holders & 510 connectors.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/J-B-Weld-ClearWeld/23848096

good luck getting everything into the 1590a. you'll most likely have to grind out one of the inside lower corners to properly position you battery holder.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

I don't think you should use the epoxy to put in anything you might wanna undo later. 510 connector to a cheap box, fine, but a board? I would try to use mechanical fasteners, or a glue that could pull apart later without tearing something up.


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That makes sense.

Do you have any suggestions?

 

[blueGrassTubb]

i've been using jb weld clearweld quick setting epoxy for battery holders & 510 connectors.
http://www.walmart.com/ip/J-B-Weld-ClearWeld/23848096

good luck getting everything into the 1590a. you'll most likely have to grind out one of the inside lower corners to properly position you battery holder.

There is about a .05" of an inch I'll have to make up in order to get it to fit. I have faith!

Of course if I set the screen on the thin side of the enclosure, rather than on the larger side, I can simply move it over a bit and it should be good.

I'll have to get everything and throw it in there and see!

 

[elektrk]

JB Weld has specific operating temperatures. Most clear epoxies are even lower. Both will act as heat insulators. While theoretically nothing in your box should get hot enough for this to be an issue, I'd personally prefer not to introduce the possibility of any (additional) fumes, and would prefer to keep things as cool as possible inside. Crimp connectors, splices with heat shrink, or lead-free solder are all alternative options.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

Question:

I haven't messed too much with electronics in a while. I'll practice soldering and such with wires that can be ruined in order to make sure that I can get it right before I start with this project. Fortunately most of the soldering is already done for me.

That said, according to the wiring diagram for the SX350 there must be a negative wire from the battery that goes to both the board and the 510 connection. I have a couple of battery holders on the way to test to see which I like better, though it seems the battery holder prewired with leads will be a better fit (I shouldn't have to alter it in order to get a good fit along the side wall of the enclosure).

I was planning on splicing the negative wire from the board and the negative lead from the battery holder together. That will work fine, but I still have a lead from the battery that needs to go to the 510 connector.

The wiring diagram seems to indicate that I can solder in a third wire with the original splice between the board and the battery. Can I solder a third wire in while performing the splice from the battery to the board and bring it to the 510 connector? Or will that mess things up?

The wiring diagram:

 

[elektrk]

If you're using a prewired battery holder, the leads coming out of it simply replace the battery in the diagram. Make sure your wire gauges are proper for the length and amperage.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

Let's assume for a minute that I change my design and go for a LiPo battery instead of trying to shoehorn an 18650 with holder in the box.

Would this be an appropriate battery? It looks like it should be okay and would save me lots of space (and hassle) during assembly.

All-Battery.com: Tenergy LIPO 3.7V 2380mAh (753969) Battery

 

[blueGrassTubb]

If you're using a prewired battery holder, the leads coming out of it simply replace the battery in the diagram. Make sure your wire gauges are proper for the length and amperage.

So you're saying it's okay to splice 3 wires together to essentially form a Y? The lead from the battery connected to both the wire to the board and the wire to the 510 connector at the same splice point?

 

[chefjoosie]

Let's assume for a minute that I change my design and go for a LiPo battery instead of trying to shoehorn an 18650 with holder in the box.

Would this be an appropriate battery? It looks like it should be okay and would save me lots of space (and hassle) during assembly.

All-Battery.com: Tenergy LIPO 3.7V 2380mAh (753969) Battery

No, that cell isn't rated for high discharge. Maybe try a couple/few of these: Turnigy 1000mAh 1S 20C Lipoly (Single Cell)

or if you want a single battery solution instead of individual cells, one of these: Batteries & Accessories>Turnigy Lipoly. Choose one that is rated at 5C or more, and you should be fine.

 

[chefjoosie]

So you're saying it's okay to splice 3 wires together to essentially form a Y? The lead from the battery connected to both the wire to the board and the wire to the 510 connector at the same splice point?

Yes that's perfectly fine. just make sure the wire on battery holder isn't too wimpy, and attach 2 wires to the end of it, one goes to board other to atomizer connector.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

I'm going to go with the 18650 for now, though I already have plans to wire two 3.7v 1200mah 15c lipos in parallel to conserve a bit on space. I'm just not comfortable with doing that kind of electrical work yet.

Thanks for the help so far. Surely I'll have more questions soon enough as I get my parts and start to shoehorn them in.

 

[Doghead]

That makes sense.

Do you have any suggestions?

Sadly, no good ones off the top of my head. I kinda like overbuilding with as many little nuts and bolts as I can justify!
What part of the bluegrass you in?


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[blueGrassTubb]

Sadly, no good ones off the top of my head. I kinda like overbuilding with as many little nuts and bolts as I can justify!
What part of the bluegrass you in?


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Just below Lexington.

 

[Doghead]

Just east of louisville


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[blueGrassTubb]

Just east of louisville


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So we're not too far apart!

Excellent. Perhaps we'll meet sometime.

 

[blueGrassTubb]

good luck getting everything into the 1590a. you'll most likely have to grind out one of the inside lower corners to properly position you battery holder.

You were right. That battery holder ain't fitting along the edge, and I ain't gonna go grinding down the box. I decided on building a battery pack with a couple of 25C 1200mah lipos in parallel with a parallel harness. That'll almost surely fit. If not, it's back to the drawing board with power.

Any tips on a power source that's around the 2400mah mark that will absolutely fit in the 1590A?

 

[chefjoosie]

Depending of course on which you get, the lipo packs should fit fine. Looks like you have about 72x35mm between the posts. Button and sx350 placement might get tricky though. Which lipo cells were you planning on using?

 

[blueGrassTubb]

Depending of course on which you get, the lipo packs should fit fine. Looks like you have about 72x35mm between the posts. Button and sx350 placement might get tricky though. Which lipo cells were you planning on using?

Here are the batteries I'm using (2x 25C 1200mah lipos - 62mm x 31mm x 16mm combined). I'm either going to use a 20g parallel harness and cut off the JST plug and solder the pos/neg to the wires from the board, or cut off the JST plugs, solder the wires directly with a wire nut connector along with a third wire from the the board.

I'm leaning towards the parallel adapter route, because it seems like an easier and more straightforward route, but I've been advised that it may raise resistance considerably.

Any suggestions as to which route I should take?