Honestly, unless you have a condition that makes coiling wire impossible (shaky hands, poor eyesight, etc.,), it is extremely easy. I started re-building
coils on my Kanger mini pro
tank 2. It is tight in there, so I started with 32 gauge kanthal, then moved to 30 gauge kanthal. IMO, either is fine. The only real requirement is using resistance wire, whether it is nicrome, kanthal, g-plat etc., etc. Just realize that different resistance wires have different resistances per unit of measurement. I use 28 gauge Kanthal in my Kayfun now, but due to the tight spaces in which to work, the higher gauges work better (easier) in the Kangers. I haven't built a bad coil yet. I'm not saying I am a master coil builder at all. Far from it. Just take your time with it, use the calculators to determine the number of wraps for a certain gauge kanthal around a certain gauge rod/drill bit, test it with some sort of ohm meter before you fire it and you are good. Keep your ohms between 1.3 and 2.5 and you are safe.
As far as cotton, you will probably experience a noticeable difference from silica wicks; I did. I've used everything from regular non-organic cotton balls to Japanese Organic Cotton sheets, and I don't notice that big of a difference. I feel the Japanese organic cotton is a slight bit better, but nowhere near as big as a difference as from moving from silica to cotton. Your results may vary. I feel like I'm being safer using organic, unbleached cotton, but I haven't seen any true evidence for this, and don't really taste much of a difference. Do what is right for you. The one thing I wouldn't do is pay the insane prices some vape shops are charging for Japanese cotton. After re-coiling yourself and switching to cotton from silica, the law of diminishing returns is truly in effect here. Is is better than Japanese Organic Cotton? Maybe. Is it worth the price? As I am not your accountant, only you can say.
Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
