Advice on if I really need a mech (and some other questions)

[BennyAdeline]

My current set up is an Itaste MVP, A back up ego twist and a ton of vivi novas/iclear 16s. I love all off them, no issues at all. Super happy.

I do like the look and price of the Kamry K100. I understand mechs a bit, that they are not VV like my current batteries, etc.

If I did get the k100 as another backup/just for fun and used clearos with it, would I get any different of an experience with it? Is it a downgrade from the VV devices I use now since I can currently tune my voltage to the juice/atomizer and on a mech I cannot?

Is the K100 only really worth it of I'm dripping?

My last question is when using a mech for dripping, does that make it so you dont want to use your VV devices anymore since vapor production is less on them?

Thanks!

 

[HauntedMyst]

The K100 is worth it with rebuild-able atomizers. I don't know that you'd get any different experience with it with clearos other than you'll notice the battery drain curve a bit. Personally, I prefer mechs to VV but that is a personal preference.

 

[rogergendron1]

I would say its a downgrade if your going to put a clearo on it, but if you buy a nice rba to go with it its the best upgrade you can go to. Mechanical and rba that is.

The reason is it is unregulated and set voltage so even if you buy lr attys for your clearo the vape will be unregulated and degrade over the battery life

but with an rba on top and a sub lr coil made with some 28g kanthal wire say around 1 or .8 ohms you now have a great vape

sort no you dont need one but you should get one with an rba for the experience

my all day device is an mvp also but i use carto tanks with it. When i get home or i am around town i use my natural agi hybrid because no clearo or carto can touch it for flavor and vapor production

 

[MamaTried]

technically, it could be considered a downgrade from VV/VW- but it's so freakin beautiful

i use mine with a carto and carry it around. if i drop it, i'm not out much

 

[StarDose]

I have my k100 kicked with an rda which I could get the same vape with my other devices so doesnt have any advantages over my other device in this setup. Mechs are good it you want to build low ohm coil that protected devices won't let you fire. Whether low ohm is better or not is upto personal preference, I just like having the option of building a SLR coil.

 

[fabricator4]

My current set up is an Itaste MVP, A back up ego twist and a ton of vivi novas/iclear 16s. I love all off them, no issues at all. Super happy.

I do like the look and price of the Kamry K100. I understand mechs a bit, that they are not VV like my current batteries, etc.

If I did get the k100 as another backup/just for fun and used clearos with it, would I get any different of an experience with it? Is it a downgrade from the VV devices I use now since I can currently tune my voltage to the juice/atomizer and on a mech I cannot?

Is the K100 only really worth it of I'm dripping?

My last question is when using a mech for dripping, does that make it so you dont want to use your VV devices anymore since vapor production is less on them?

Thanks!

You can do everything with the MVP that you can do with a mechanical, except stack batteries and run silly voltages.

With a mechanical your voltage starts out with a fresh battery at 4.2 volts and then drops to 3.7/3.6 where it stays for a while, then it will continue to drop until you either charge it or break the battery. You'll also need a mulltimeter.

There's also no short circuit protection on a mechanical, so you can either continue to run barefoot, or you can add a fuse.

Mechanicals aren't for everyone because they are more hands on since there's no electronics to do things for you. If you want to try one though, then the K-100 empire clone at $25 is a very rugged device and is very good value for money. I like it more than my China GG.

 

[fabricator4]

Weird. Double post.

 

[ThermoNuker]

With a mechanical your voltage starts out with a fresh battery at 4.2 volts and then drops to 3.7/3.6 where it stays for a while, then it will continue to drop until you either charge it or break the battery. You'll also need a mulltimeter.

There's also no short circuit protection on a mechanical, so you can either continue to run barefoot, or you can add a fuse.

If the battery breaks, it's good news, i.e., the battery is a protected type. The protection ckt helped cut you out using the battery further to prevent a potential disaster to happen. The OP needs to know these types of batteries. There are non-protected types, good for VVs. The VV's electronics handles all the failsafe stuff. The risk is when using non-protected batteries on mech mods.

When Li-ion batteries are delivering power, it's a known fact that there's always a potential of thermal runaway (meltdown, if not explosion). Laptops closely monitors this temperature. An extended short ckt will increase this risk to happen. The same is true when these batteries are being charged improperly. The fuse that fabricator4 mentioned or anything like it is a must when using non-protected batteries. It's not 100% fail-safe (per manufacturer's disclaimer) but I guess better than nothing.

The failsafe feature is delegated to us when using mech MODS. It's normal for MOD battery to get warmer as we use them but it should cool down when not in use. Always check for any abnormalities. A lower vape production with no burnt taste is a good indication of a battery that needs recharging. Enuf said. The good news is, I haven't heard yet somebody's got nuked by his/her own MOD.


Hope this helps.

 

[sailense]

The only practical reason to use a mech is to bypass the resistance and current limitations of a mod. Most mods won't go below 1.2ohms and won't push more than 5A.

For example, a 0.5ohm coil @ 3.7v is 7.4A of current and 27.38W of power. You can get some crazy clouds on an RDA with that. Of course, you then need to make sure you have a high drain battery rated at at least 10A of continuous draw. Obviously the battery has to be unprotected.

If you didn't understand every part of that, you may just want to stay clear of sub-ohm.

You can also use a regular clearo as a topper and an ICR protected battery and get a regular vape out of it. If you're used to VV/VW, you'll notice the voltage drop as the battery drains, but that's easily fixed with a kick.

 

[AttyPops]

^^^^ This. For starters.

Basically, electricity is electricity. With a "real" mod...they are either regulated to some fixed voltage (and thus more consistent) or even adjustable voltage. A coil doesn't care what power supply is screwed on to it. You could set a "normal" e-cig to 3.7 volts and simulate a mech mod...except that A) it would be more consistent than a mech-mod voltage wise and B) it would have some amp limit and C) it would also have short circuit protection where a mech mod doesn't.

So the main reason for a mech mod is 1) bypassing amp limits to vape SLR, 2) supposedly rebuildable after the Zombie Apocalypse without a soldering iron. Zombies don't vape though. So you'd have to be one of the "survivors".

To me, they are much less consistent in their vape. And SLR is totally unnecessary. But to each their own. Some are dang nice looking. Too bad they are mostly bottom buttons. And too bad they are built like pipe-b.ombs.

And if you're putting a kick in one, it isn't an all-mech anymore...you may as well get a normal e-cig. Although the kick may stop you from blowing your face off.

 

[440BB]

I use a K100 with a 1.8 ohm clearo and IMR/Hybrid batteries. Clearos and Evods are protected in the deep ego threaded well, so the overall size is pretty small. Durability and performance are excellent. Voltage stays pretty flat for a long time on these type of batteries so the vape is pretty consistent. No solder, no wires, no surprises.

 

[trouble1000]

Must admit, I do like my mech mods for my style of vaping. I don't do lo-res attys or anything like that.

I just find with some regulated devices I can easily hit the cut-off point. I like to take long slow draws and double hits on my devices, so a mech mod does keep up with me. I do go through coils quicker though
But I prefer a tighter draw to an airy one too, guess this is the reason for the long slow draws, plus I mainly use 50pg/50ag mixes.

At the end of the day though, it's all down to personal preference and what you want from a device.

 

[AttyPops]

I agree that amp limits are a major factor.

What I don't understand about the all-mech crowd is the whole "no wires" thing.

Just so you know, most of the world's power is delivered through wires. For miles and miles. And also, shorter distances in your house. lol. And they draw more amps/watts than some RBA e-cig thingy. ROFL. If it weren't for wires....we wouldn't be able to have this conversation.

Of course, you have to have the proper wire rated for the expected load. But...heck...think of all the air conditioners out there powered by....WIRES...from your fuse box to the unit. What...1000 watts or more? ROFL

OK, OK, I know that's an A/C example instead of DC. Thank you Mr. Tesla. But still, the point remains. There's plenty of DC wiring inside stuff too working away for decades.

Yay wires!

 

[StarDose]

No wires or electronics are just less things that could break, mechs are just a solid device with very little that can make the stop working. Nothing wrong with wires but the mechs wiring can't burnout or come loose or whatever to stop it from working. That's basically what people are getting at by saying that. The rare occasion that it may fall into the mud you can just take out the batteries and Atty and run it under the tap to clean it without worry about ruining it.

 

[trouble1000]

No wires or electronics are just less things that could break, mechs are just a solid device with very little that can make the stop working. Nothing wrong with wires but the mechs wiring can't burnout or come loose or whatever to stop it from working. That's basically what people are getting at by saying that. The rare occasion that it may fall into the mud you can just take out the batteries and Atty and run it under the tap to clean it without worry about ruining it.

That's exactly what I do with my Vmod, it seems to work better after a weekly shower, I draw the line at a manicure though

 

[AttyPops]

Apparently, at least a few don't like connectors either.

Well, I've never been a fan of the 510-style connector with the floating center post...to be fair. But I'd rather have a connector than not. However, to each their own! That's what's cool about e-cigs.