Aga-T2+ poor results- HELP!
- Thread starter Robin Mast3rs
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1. Did you oxidize the ss wick good?
2. Touch the leads of you meter together and see what it reads, you have to subtract that value for your reading when you test the coil with your meter. I bet touching the leads together will give you a .7 or .8 reading.
I wouldnt worry about the coil touching the bottom. Mine is and reads a steady 2.0 ohm with 500 ss mesh and 4 wraps with 32ga. Gonna try some 30 ga with more wraps, just gotta go get some 30 tommorrow.
if you do try the 30g, try a slightly lower resistance then the 2ohms that you are used to, it just maybe to many wraps for the 30g to be at 2ohms. maybe try 1.5 to 1.8. if your used to 32g with 4 wraps, and then you do 30g with 10wraps(probably the number of wraps to make a 2ohm coil) you will find it sluggish compares to your current set-up, it takes time to heat up all those coils. the flavor will still be better with the 30g. who knows you may even like the 30g @2ohms. try both and let us know.
Yeah lower ohm is fine. I modded a mini vivi nova with the 500 ss and it runs at 1.5 and works pretty good.
I do prefer the coil to heat up as fast as possible.
Well I got my 18350s and stacked them. Woah. The increase in power is crazy. I could fire a 1.5 ohm coil up to "6 volts" with a single 18650 all day long. Putting in stacked 18350s and dialing in 6 volts caused me to nearly blow the coil in a dry burn with just a brief fire button press.
With an 18650, I was topping out around 17 watts. With the stacked 18350s, it's hit 23 watts so far, (verified with multimeter in series with the coil in amp mode). I bet if I dropped my coil resistance a bit more, I could hit 30 watts. In any case, my next goal is a 1.2 ohm 28ga coil, (running twisted 32 right now, acts like 30ga, it's a 5 wrap coil at 1.5 ohm), to see if the extra power can heat up the coil faster.
Recommended reading for all your AGA-T woes. (Current info applicable to the AGA-T, T+, and T2)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ve-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank-say-what.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...nyone-tried-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ve-aga-tiamat-plus-w-glass-tank-say-what.html
talking about all this wattage, yesterday i did a coil in my mechanical mod that probably hit the 20watt mark. 28g- 2/3 wrp- 0.6ohms. this was rocking! i mean serious clouds, the flavor a little muted compared to my normal 1 ohm coil, but not to bad. the only thing is that its a battery eater and juice swallower. dont think it will be something that i will continue on a regular basis, but just wanted to try. maybe next time im feeling brave i will try the same thing but with 26g.
Nice... Just remember, I don't think the Vamo will fire a coil lower than 1.2 Ohms, so if the resistance fluctuates at all, you could run into problems.
And yeah, with the single 18650 even though you had it set to 6V, it was probablynever firing that 1.5 Ohm coil above 4V. With stacked 18350's it'll fire it all day... and pop it too if you're not careful! LoL
Don't burn your lips off!
That seems to be a popular opinion...
I wonder what size the wick hole is in the clone? I'm learning that a free-floating wick (barely if at all contacting the wick hole walls) is a lot easier to deal with in terms of electrical shorts. The whole base represents negative, so if we isolate the wick from negative and it simply "floats" in the coil without also touching the bottom of the tank, it's isolated electrically other than the coil contact (the Petar K. method, basically).
More to learn...
One way to fix that issue is to use a silicone grommet in the wick hole, similar to the grommet that is on both sides of the center post where it comes throught the top and bottom caps. This would electrically isolate the wick from the top cap, and as long as it doesnt touch the center tube or bottom of the tank, would alleviate any coil grounding issues. Maybe correct all hot spot issues period.
That's more something to implement during product design as opposed to a retrofit, but I'm pretty sure it would work well as long as the material used for the grommet doesn't melt under high heat. That wick gets awfully hot...
That's more something to implement during product design as opposed to a retrofit, but I'm pretty sure it would work well as long as the material used for the grommet doesn't melt under high heat. That wick gets awfully hot...
I've thought along those lines as well. Doesn't the ZAP have an insulator in the wick hole? I keep reading people saying "remove the insulator". I agree tough, there's a lot of heat there. I would think it would have to be ceramic or metallic to work, but metals are as a rule good conductors, and ceramic is fragile.
I'm moving away from using fat wicks that hug the wick hole and finding a lot less issues with hotspots, theoretically because the wick isn't making substantial contact with the negative surface.
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