Air flow driven device.

[Hawise]

Thank you for all the help once again. Would you give some number suggestions to look out for in a wire you think would be suitable. Don't know if you are allowed to specify a brand name. ie. Stainless-Steel-Wire-316L 24awg xx xx

The exact specifications you want will depend on your tank and your personal taste. To give you an idea of what someone might use, I'm an MTL, TC vaper and I'm currently vaping:

tank - Kayfun Prime, although I'd use a similar coil in a Siren II

Coil

• SS 316L
• 28 ga
• ID 2.5 mm
• 7 wraps, spaced (note: with SS, spaced coils tend to work better in TC)
• resistance: ~0.64 ohms

Are you familiar with Steam Engine or another coil wizard? If not, they can be very helpful in designing a coil that's likely to work well.

 

[Mordacai]

@Hawise, always use a spaced coil or coils for TC. It doesn't work otherwise properly, as it causes issues with the resistance reading.

 

[Stew1957]

The exact specifications you want will depend on your tank and your personal taste. To give you an idea of what someone might use, I'm an MTL, TC vaper and I'm currently vaping:

Tank - Kayfun Prime, although I'd use a similar coil in a Siren II

Coil

• SS 316L
• 28 ga
• ID 2.5 mm
• 7 wraps, spaced (note: with SS, spaced coils tend to work better in TC)
• resistance: ~0.64 ohms

Are you familiar with Steam Engine or another coil wizard? If not, they can be very helpful in designing a coil that's likely to work well.

Thanks very much. I have actually looked around on steam engine but at the moment all our Vape shops are closed and a few that have survived are selling hardware and CBD products on line. Unfortunately if you want to buy something with a value of R30 in our currency it cost R100 extra for delivery which makes it uneconomical to buy and all the popular goods are sold out.
Once things normalise I will be able to try a lot more options. Thanks very much.

 

[Jebbn]

Im another MTL temp control vaper.

I use 28g SS with an ID of 2mm to 2.5mm(depending on rta) and aim at around .76ohm coils.

Wicking properly is important with TC. If the wicking isnt right you end up with a less smooth, stuttering, on/off/on/off draw as the mods chip tries to keep things with in the set parameters.

I only use TC because I enjoy a cool vape and dont want heat. I set it to ramp up instantly but stay cool during the draw, about 200C. I do use non TC mods along side the TC setups.

 

[Stew1957]

Im another MTL temp control vaper.

I use 28g SS with an ID of 2mm to 2.5mm(depending on rta) and aim at around .76ohm coils.

Wicking properly is important with TC. If the wicking isnt right you end up with a less smooth, stuttering, on/off/on/off draw as the mods chip tries to keep things with in the set parameters.

I only use TC because I enjoy a cool vape and dont want heat. I set it to ramp up instantly but stay cool during the draw, about 200C. I do use non TC mods along side the TC setups.

Thank you very much. I am currently trying to get some SS316L wire.

 

[mcclintock]

Oh but there is. If you keep our finger on the fire button (or chain vape excessively), the temperature of the coil will keep increasing quickly--by hundreds of degrees. And unless you take your finger off that button and let the coil cool down, the coil will overheat and eventually pop--no amount of fast wicking or airflow will help with that. That's why TC was invented. BTW, Brandon calls it temperature limitation, not control, because we can't control coils' temperature--we can only limit it.

Back in the dark ages of vaping, when cartomizer coils were made of 32-34g NiCr wire, we were frequently warned not to take draws longer than 5 sec to avoid the danger of burning the filler and/or popping the coil.

As long as the wick is wet, and air being pulled through, the coil will not overheat and can't increase hundreds of degrees. If it gets slightly dry or the power level is set for fast, short vapes only it will get a bit too hot and break down the juice some, of course. But it's all about wicking.

If the coil is at the right temperature when you stop firing, then it will need to approach that temperature again to vape right, whether the break between is 2 seconds or 2 days.

Any setup that is not set up to allow chain vaping will turn to trash after I vape on it a couple minutes. I take long slow drags and produce clouds by persistence. It's not the way everybody does things but it is possible.

I still use an EVOD with a 34 ga. nichrome coil at about 3.2V/5.2W. It starts getting a bit burny tasting after about 4-5 seconds even on low setting so I do the half-second break. However I can then go for another 3-4 seconds repeatedly and have taken circular breathing hits exceeding 30 seconds. However this is tank system not a cartomizer, even though primitive now (I use it largely because I can put in 5 cent Fasttech NR-R-NR coil assemblies with cotton wicking. I use it rarely but went from last October until a month ago on one coil and wick).

I know that some people use TC as you describe - protection from a dry hit or other unusual circumstances - but there are also many of us who use it to regulate temperature quite successfully.

The analogy I think in is using an audio compressor to get a sustained sound from a guitar. You slam the compressor hard and it flattens out the level though not flawlessly. There are probably better TC's than my istick Pico but I have found the power level must be set appropriately to work properly, only a few percent higher than for power mode. If the power is set too high, it over-regulates and you get less instead of more. It still helps makes hits more consistent and definitely saves you if you forget to drip. However it can't act as the OP asked and make it automatically adapt to widely differing vape styles.

 

[PeterKay]

@Stew1957 one additional thing which I believe wasn't mentioned so far: adding around 5% distilled water (I personally suggest food grade) to your liquid. It really improves the wicking with a small flavor loss- an 80/20 vg/pg with distilled water added wicks as well is 70/30, and 70/30 with 5% distilled wicks nearly as well as 50/50. All the juices I mix these days, and all the shortfills I get, receive 5% DH2O (5% volume in my case, not the weight)

 

[PeterKay]

Wouldn't go higher than 5-6%, some folks on ths forum complained about 10% DH2O diluting the flavor too much so I haven't even tried 10%. Around 5% seems to work fine so that's my target concentration

 

[Stew1957]

Wouldn't go higher than 5-6%, some folks on ths forum complained about 10% DH2O diluting the flavor too much so I haven't even tried 10%. Around 5% seems to work fine so that's my target concentration

Thanks Peter. I am already running at 50 / 50 PG/VG. Would 5% thin it to much?

 

[Stew1957]

As long as the wick is wet, and air being pulled through, the coil will not overheat and can't increase hundreds of degrees. If it gets slightly dry or the power level is set for fast, short vapes only it will get a bit too hot and break down the juice some, of course. But it's all about wicking.

If the coil is at the right temperature when you stop firing, then it will need to approach that temperature again to vape right, whether the break between is 2 seconds or 2 days.

Any setup that is not set up to allow chain vaping will turn to trash after I vape on it a couple minutes. I take long slow drags and produce clouds by persistence. It's not the way everybody does things but it is possible.

I still use an EVOD with a 34 ga. nichrome coil at about 3.2V/5.2W. It starts getting a bit burny tasting after about 4-5 seconds even on low setting so I do the half-second break. However I can then go for another 3-4 seconds repeatedly and have taken circular breathing hits exceeding 30 seconds. However this is tank system not a cartomizer, even though primitive now (I use it largely because I can put in 5 cent Fasttech NR-R-NR coil assemblies with cotton wicking. I use it rarely but went from last October until a month ago on one coil and wick).



The analogy I think in is using an audio compressor to get a sustained sound from a guitar. You slam the compressor hard and it flattens out the level though not flawlessly. There are probably better TC's than my istick Pico but I have found the power level must be set appropriately to work properly, only a few percent higher than for power mode. If the power is set too high, it over-regulates and you get less instead of more. It still helps makes hits more consistent and definitely saves you if you forget to drip. However it can't act as the OP asked and make it automatically adapt to widely differing vape styles.

Thanks very much. Learning here all the time.

 

[PeterKay]

Thanks Peter. I am already running at 50 / 50 PG/VG. Would 5% thin it to much?

No. Some of the juices I encountered when I frst started vaping were 100% PG, so extra thin. However, there might be situations where thinning out your e liquid wouldn't reallybe recommended.

 

[PeterKay]

If you wick an RTA and you thin out your wick, having a thin liquid on top of it would end up in leaks, for example

 

[PeterKay]

Thanks Peter. I am already running at 50 / 50 PG/VG. Would 5% thin it to much?

There is another benefit to using distilled H2O. If you suffer fro dry mouth or throat from vaping it can really help. But adding DH2O to 50/50 liquid to decrease viscosity for wicking purposes is a waste of energy. If your coil doesn't wick fast enough at 50/50 it means you are having some serious wicking issues

 

[PeterKay]

Would appreciate if you have a tip or anything to clean the coil after a bit of usage.

Remove o-rings. Dump the coil in vodka/pure ethanol/rubbing alcohol overnight. Remove, rinse thoroughly with warm watter. Let it dry. Not like new but will surviver another week of vaping. Not 100% flavor experiene but works in general. Won't work if you burned the wick, anything black/burned around the wire/mesh of your coil won't go away

 

[Stew1957]

There is another benefit to using distilled H2O. If you suffer fro dry mouth or throat from vaping it can really help. But adding DH2O to 50/50 liquid to decrease viscosity for wicking purposes is a waste of energy. If your coil doesn't wick fast enough at 50/50 it means you are having some serious wicking issues

I just mentioned I was already running 50 / 50 PG/VG because you mentioned diluting and at 50 / 50 I shouldn't need to dilute. Thanks.