Akuma clone

[Koryperson]

So I recently purchased an Akuma clone and it came with a bunch of authentifications n stuff such as a stamp verifying it works, serial numbers, etc.

Welllllllll after fully charging the battery I bought with it, I can't even get the dang thing to fire. I adjusted the floating pin to remove the battery rattle, I screwed in the bottom switch to finger tight, everything sits flush. But it just wont fire?

I actually did get it to fire a few minutes ago. But for some odd reason the flavor is a HORRIBLE burnt taste with little to no vapor. I then put the same tank on my Vision Spinner and got a normal vape with normal flavor.

Any idea whats going on? I'm so confused...

 

[JohnnyBGoode]

Crappy battery? What is your tank and coil setup?

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

Is the top pin of your battery making a connection with your atomizer?

 

[Koryperson]

Crappy battery? What is your tank and coil setup?

Well I'm currently using an AeroTank v2 on it. Going to get into RBA's and maybe dripping in the near future. Package said it was 2.0 ohm but my ohm reader says 2.2(If that matters)

Hello and welcome to the forum. Glad to have you here!

Is the top pin of your battery making a connection with your atomizer?

Thanks for the welcome

And I do believe so, I mean I can't really see when it's screwed on but the fact that I get weird burnt hits may mean it's getting a very light weak connection?

 

[k702]

there should be two pins in the top cap.. One that floats in and out of the 510 connection and another that goes into the first and screws in and out to adjust for battery rattle.

The way I read what you wrote you only have a floating pin, if it's pulled out to adjust for rattle it might not be making complete contact with the positive pin of your atty.


beyond that the vape from a clearomizer with a stock 2.0 ohm coil on a mech even with a fresh battery can be quite underwhelming. Big reason people use mechs with rebuildables is so they can tune in the average wattage of their vape using the resistance of their build.

 

[Koryperson]

there should be two pins in the top cap.. One that floats in and out of the 510 connection and another that goes into the first and screws in and out to adjust for battery rattle.

The way I read what you wrote you only have a floating pin, if it's pulled out to adjust for rattle it might not be making complete contact with the positive pin of your atty.

I have the second one screwed in all the way because the battery isn't a flat top, so it's a tight fit even with it screwed all the way in.

As for the floating pin goes I can't find a way to adjust it. The only part that moves on the top cap is the little screw underneath to adjust for the rattle, and like I said I have that one screwed in all the way.

EDIT: Also just figured out that when I do get the really dry burnt taste, my tank heats up ridiculously fast, like painful hot after 3-4 hits.

 

[Susan~S]

EDIT: Also just figured out that when I do get the really dry burnt taste, my tank heats up ridiculously fast, like painful hot after 3-4 hits.

What is the ohm of your coil?

 

[Koryperson]

What is the ohm of your coil?

2 Ohm dual coil

 

[Koryperson]

Well guys I figured it out I think, it may only be a temp fix or maybe it's actually what the problem was. But I watched reviews of the actual Akuma and the top cap on that has 2 adjustable parts, the pin and the screw. The pin on mine wouldn't budge like the authentic's but I noticed it was pushed out a bit. So I just put it against a table and pushed it in, no more burnt flavor and im getting good vape.

Hopefully this is a perm fix lol!

Thanks to everyone who replied on this thread

 

[nynvolt]

I have an akuma clone. Mine came with magnets in the switch and a spring in the box. I had a lot of misfires. I switched the magnets for the spring and it's been perfect.

To set it up, ensure the bottom pin is TIGHT. If it's loose it will wobble and misfire. Next, push the top floating pin all the way in. Screw in your atomizer. Drop the battery in. Put the atomizer and top cap on. If the battery rattles, take the top off and screw the battery rattle screw out, do this until it's tight enough. Should work great.

 

[k702]

Well guys I figured it out I think, it may only be a temp fix or maybe it's actually what the problem was. But I watched reviews of the actual Akuma and the top cap on that has 2 adjustable parts, the pin and the screw. The pin on mine wouldn't budge like the authentic's but I noticed it was pushed out a bit. So I just put it against a table and pushed it in, no more burnt flavor and im getting good vape.

Hopefully this is a perm fix lol!

Thanks to everyone who replied on this thread

with clearomizers like that if you tighten them too far down you run the risk of pushing the positive pin off center, crushing or moving the insulator, and causing a short. That might have been what happened here.

 

[Oktyabr]

So I recently purchased an Akuma clone and it came with a bunch of authentifications n stuff such as a stamp verifying it works, serial numbers, etc.

Welllllllll after fully charging the battery I bought with it, I can't even get the dang thing to fire. I adjusted the floating pin to remove the battery rattle, I screwed in the bottom switch to finger tight, everything sits flush. But it just wont fire?

I actually did get it to fire a few minutes ago. But for some odd reason the flavor is a HORRIBLE burnt taste with little to no vapor. I then put the same tank on my Vision Spinner and got a normal vape with normal flavor.

Any idea whats going on? I'm so confused...

It would be handy to see some photos of that top cap. Closeups, from the side view, top and bottom.

I recently went through THREE Akuma clones before I found a vendor that had a good one. The first one was advertised as "adjustable" but only the battery rattle screw would move.

The second one was an improvement on the first in that the pin that contacts the bottom of your atomizer actually "floats" in that top cap, held snug with a rubber o-ring. I suspect this is the one you have now. At first I didn't think mine floated at all but pressing down from the outside with a very small screwdriver finally got it to slide out so I could see what was going on. A drop of juice smeared on that o-ring and a bit of use and it started working much better.

The third one I bought, the keeper, has copper pins. The battery rattle one screws into the atty one which screws into the delrin insulator which will actually screw in and out of the top cap. VERY adjustable, but I probably would have kept the second one had it not had other critical machining errors.

 

[Warpigs]

Welcome to ECF!