All my mods part1

[santo19586]

to Raidy or some that built a genisis mod,
question , i got mine put together, and when i fire the genisis up , the juice wicks good and the vapor is week , but also the top unit gets hot, does this suppose to happen ? when i check for continuity from positive pin at the bat connection to the top piece of unit , i get a beep, which means i got short somewhere, i double and triple checked every thing,the only contact that i see is where the mesh comes through the top of unit, do i have to shield the mesh where it comes throught th top? if not , then i just have to take apart again and redo . . help!

 

[lorderos33]

to Raidy or some that built a genisis mod,
question , i got mine put together, and when i fire the genisis up , the juice wicks good and the vapor is week , but also the top unit gets hot, does this suppose to happen ? when i check for continuity from positive pin at the bat connection to the top piece of unit , i get a beep, which means i got short somewhere, i double and triple checked every thing,the only contact that i see is where the mesh comes through the top of unit, do i have to shield the mesh where it comes throught th top? if not , then i just have to take apart again and redo . . help!

It should work as long as you remembered to oxidize the mesh first. Heat the roll to glowing red with a butane torch and quench in water then dry and repeat 2 or 3 more times. This will build a layer of oxidation on the stainless to prevent it from shorting against the body of the mod. You will also want to make sure that the positive lead wire is insulated from the mod body assuming you are using the body of the mod to connect the negative lead to the battery.

Once you do that just remember to not wrap the kanthal too tight around the mesh. It should just barely be touching the meshroll.

That should eliminate your shorting issues.

 

[caillel]

Yes, you have to isolate the mesh from the top unit.

 

[santo19586]

Thank you , i do quench the mesh four times, or so , then i burn off drop or so at a time when its together to get it so it doesnt turn red in spots.

 

[Quick1]

Thank you , i do quench the mesh four times, or so , then i burn off drop or so at a time when its together to get it so it doesnt turn red in spots.

It works. highly unlikely you have a short. The kanthal is going to be the highest resistance in the circuit. If current is going through the kanthal to produce any vapor then it's not shorted. If it was shorted there isn't enough resistance in the aluminum pieces to cause heat (that amount of current would also trip the pcb in a protected battery or fail an unprotected one long before you heated up the aluminum). How about pics? of the atty part and the cap.

 

[santo19586]

It works. highly unlikely you have a short. The kanthal is going to be the highest resistance in the circuit. If current is going through the kanthal to produce any vapor then it's not shorted. If it was shorted there isn't enough resistance in the aluminum pieces to cause heat (that amount of current would also trip the pcb in a protected battery or fail an unprotected one long before you heated up the aluminum). How about pics? of the atty part and the cap.

thanks Quick, i will put up some pics tomorrow, worked the night shift going to bed now, again , thanks for your help,see ya

 

[lorderos33]

Thank you , i do quench the mesh four times, or so , then i burn off drop or so at a time when its together to get it so it doesnt turn red in spots.

I think I read the original question wrong. If it's the coil that is glowing hot there are 2 possibilities. You could have the coil shorting on the mesh, which is fairly normal until the kanthal builds up it's oxidation which we help along with the drop of juice at a time or your resistance is too low so it's burning up too fast to give a good vape.

What gauge kanthal are you using, how big is the mesh and how many coils around t do you have? The pics will show all that anyway so we'll be able to help more when you get back.

Sent from my Incredible using Tapatalk

 

[Quick1]

but also the top unit gets hot, does this suppose to happen ?
...
the only contact that i see is where the mesh comes through the top of unit,

I think I read the original question wrong. If it's the coil that is glowing hot

Pretty sure he is talking about either the top cap to the tank or the mouthpiece cap getting hot.

 

[lorderos33]

That could be something as simple as the air hole not being big enough it not blowing directly onto the coil. The heat would just build up in the air chamber. This would also result in very poor vapor production.

Sent from my Incredible using Tapatalk

 

[slimest]

On my small Genesises made with eGo dimensions the combustion chamber cap gets hot during vaping. I guess it's normal...

 

[santo19586]

thank you all for helping with my Genisis, got it to work good , i re-did the mesh,contacts. loose wrap of Kanthal ,4 wraps (2.0ohms),guenched mesh,adjusted the vent hole,also mad sure the kanthal wire was tight on the posts.
the top unit, not the cover, was getting hot ,i realized that it was from trying to get it to produce vapor pushing the on button for too long,loose wire to posts, the wraps and quench and the oxidation wasn't right,. got it all addjusted and it vapes good, during normal use it DOESN'T get hot, just warm, man this all has to be just right addjusted for it to work properly.

Das guud Vaypa!!
santo19586

 

[Gummy Bear]

As we have said in the threads, the Genisis does require a good bit of "fiddling with" to get it just right.

 

[santo19586]

Yes Gummy, but when you get it just right , it vapes an taste relly good., thanks again..

 

[lorderos33]

As we have said in the threads, the Genisis does require a good bit of "fiddling with" to get it just right.

That's for sure, but you gotta admit, the payoff is soooooo worth it

 

[slimest]

during normal use it DOESN'T get hot, just warm, man this all has to be just right addjusted for it to work properly.
santo19586

If it's said to me: the cap gets hot or warm independently of an adjustment. It depends on power and volume of combustion chamber. I prefer to use approx 6 watts power and very small combustion chamber in purpose to achieve hot vapour. So the chamber gets hot. And vapour is hot.

 

[unloaded]

Well I finally finished reading this thread. Awesome work raidy! Looks like I'll be ordering parts to tinker with. I'm thinking more along the lines of a box mod, they fit in my pocket better at work. Some small vials with atty built on the cap would be great. Wiring would be above the juice, also a small plug like a cordless phone battery so they would be easy to swap out. Having an atty on each bottle and tuned to the liquid in it would be great. Being modular would make juice swapping easy and quick. Also thinking about using a banjo fitting so the mouth piece could be folded down out of the way. I see they are starting another co-op for the scuba mod, gonna read up on it next to see what changes its got.

quick1: If you're still looking at this thread, have you thought of using heat shrink on the ends of your vinyl tubing? It should hold if put on past the o-rings.

 

[Quick1]

quick1: If you're still looking at this thread, have you thought of using heat shrink on the ends of your vinyl tubing? It should hold if put on past the o-rings.

Still watching. I don't think shrink tubing would do it. Too big diameter, too thick walled vinyl. Rubberized super glue worked great

 

[studio52]

Very cool looking mods. More pics..please

 

[ScroungerLee]

I read this entire thing!

Question - was there ever a part 2? Also are the electronics discussed somewhere?

Lee

 

[Gummy Bear]

I read this entire thing!

Question - was there ever a part 2? Also are the electronics discussed somewhere?

Lee

The electronics may be discussed in part 2. But as of yet there is no part 2 yet. That is as I understand waiting for Raidy to get his new mod into production.

Edit:
Oh yea, here's your 10 points for making it all the way to the end.