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I have not thought about experimenting with the EGO XL atomizer tube. Now that you have me thinking about it, I like the idea of fitting it with the guts of a CE2. If the diameter is about what you think it is, then it may be what I have been looking for. I'll have to do some investigating along that line. Thanks, salt.
Anybody got any duds they want to get rid of?
Only it will need a new cup or be an 'upright only' mod. Aren't those XL's overpriced pos's anyhow?
It is not 'upright only' if I seal the cup for on the go usage. However, I often vape on an open reservoir for a pure taste and made a special desk top battery box for use here at the computer.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...iew-tips-info-help-video-316.html#post2207648
My XL's were not overpriced.
Anytime, Amigo!
I only have a couple of these lying around. And wanna do a little tinkering myself. Otherwise I'd send em your way. They are a little expensive to buy just for that purpose. Maybe the tube from a dead EGO battery would work too... doesnt come with the prefitted threads, but one could work around that! could always place a wanted ad in the classifieds for dead EGO stuff!
Well if you are referring to the eGo Mega Atty, cylinder type you''ll have about 13x35mm to work with, nice atties BTW and the carts hold 2+ml of liquid. I like the mouthpiece too. But do note the skirt makes them pretty much eGo or standard Joye batteries only. They just don't seem to like most adapters.
Thanks for everything guys. I have enough to study on for a while. I didn't mean to hijack this thread, so I'll not say anymore about the CE2.
Willy, that's the 1st good I've heard on the mega ego stuff. The ego I like, but with the cone. Since, I've not been impressed with janty stuff and certainly not with the prices. 100mah more, a cart that runs dry and an mp3 player, and slow changes too. But that's just me ho humming.
Br, the candlestick grip and resistor adapters are a nice touch indeed.
So just add a washer around the cup?
Br, the candlestick grip and resistor adapters are a nice touch indeed.
So just add a washer around the cup?
Br, the candlestick grip and resistor adapters are a nice touch indeed.
The original filler ring can be used to keep juice out of the intake, but not out of the mouthpiece. However, a length of the original tube with the filler ring in one end can replace the mouthpiece that is shown in the photo. That arrangement will seal everything.
Im not sure about the double coil E2, but the EgoXLs seem to be ideal... the cone shaped ones (I think HG is the major place to get them) worked quasi well with the br mod style... the cart itself fit over the cup and grommet snug... not much time to fiddle with it though... I am still waiting for one of my cylinder type ego atties to go to see what I can do with those...
After the Xmas holidays if you are still interested and haven't got any to play with by then.. I would be more than happy to hook you up... I just have to appologize for not being to offer at a sooner date.... PM me your address and I will see what I can work out..if you want
EDIT: OOPS got my threads mixed up.... Not sure but maybe the Ego atty would be a good house for a Genesis type atty as well,, but not exactly though
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I made one, but it was a dismal failure. I used a plastic 3mil bottle and built it into the lid, just for giggles. I used 400 mesh and .2mm kanthal... it vaped like a beast, but tasted... burnt. Very, very burnt. Oh, well, on the the next project.
I used a plastic 3mil bottle and built it into the lid, just for giggles. I used 400 mesh and .2mm kanthal... it vaped like a beast, but tasted... burnt. Very, very burnt. Oh, well, on the the next project.just want to say. i made it through all 100 pages. what a read. an now i think it is time to start playing around with this and try to make one. i think my biggest challenge will be the end caps. and of course the mesh. anyone know if the mesh inside 510 attys will work and would nichrome wire be able to be used. the only reason i am asking is because i would like to see if it like how the vapor tastes before i go and spend alot on parts for this.
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End caps are a problem for me as well. I don't have a lathe handy and don't want to spend a lot. Earlier in the thread raidy put up an idea to use natural cork from wine bottle and use those as end caps. I'm testing with 10 mill syringes and polycarbonate tubing. cut the ends with the tip off of the syringe and they fit perfectly into the ends of the tube and make an air tight fit without any glue. The also have a 2mm hole in the tip already. A little worried about melting but we'll see if it's an issue. Some ss mesh on ebay was $12 after shipping (325). I think you can use nichrome I'm using kanthal. only $6 ebay for 100ft. The cork would be easiest I think. Good luck with the prototype!
How long did you tried it?I made one, but it was a dismal failure.
It is normal that the first 20-30 vapes tastes burnt. Raidy wrote it here also and i found this too.
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Also is your mesh rolled to tight?
If you roll for tight the liquid flow is very bad. Best for me is 20mm rollted to 2mm.
I roll my mesh first extremly tight=1mm, then i make the oxidation.
After this i roll the mesh out again and roll the side who was first outside now to the inside.
Hope you understand what i mean.
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Hm. I was trying it for a while, but maybe I need to try it longer. It's not really usable - I just put it together with random things to see if I could make the concept work. I used 14mm rolled to just a hair less than 2mm - but it felt like I had to roll it REALLY tight to get it there. I wouldn't know how to roll it any tighter, anyway.
It worked, but the kanthal was red hot wherever it wasnt touching the mesh, and I had to use 4 wraps to get just 2.4ohm.
I believe he said the kanthal should never get red hot anywhere.Maybe you need a longer length of kanthal for more resistance or apply less voltage to it? or if you have more wicking the juice would cool it more as it vaporizes. If you were getting sufficient vapor then I'd guess more resistance or less voltage is needed.
The kanthal must be tight to mesh otherwise he glow. With glow kanthal liquid burn and have realy bad taste.
There's a chance the oxidation wasn't complete too. This would negate the resistance of the coil around the kanthal and you would only have the short distance between the electrical connection and the mesh providing resistance and it starts to glow.
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