Could absolutly not understand your problem. In german Forum 90% of all genisis-users said, that the fash ist very strong.
Please post a image of your atty with a ruler near it. I believe, that any dimension is wrong.
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Could absolutly not understand your problem. In german Forum 90% of all genisis-users said, that the fash ist very strong.
Please post a image of your atty with a ruler near it. I believe, that any dimension is wrong.
Wow, neat idea. Some things to solve that immediately come to mind.
You would need fairly precision temperature control (control the heater for accurate temperature at the mesh).
Temperature control would have to have considerable range to accomodate (relatively) large variation in air flow.
It only looks practical for a fairly small tube and thus low volume -- higher volume would require considerable power for a very large heating element.
Insulation will be an issue. Tube material will probably have to be glass? or similar.
l3oertjie, generally I've found that no "flash" is due to low heat. I can vary the heat to go from huge volumes of vapor with no "flash" at all to so much flash that a very small inhale will make you cough from the intense tingling/harshness in the back of your throat. I don't think your problem is with the stainless steel wick.
You would need fairly precision temperature control (control the heater for accurate temperature at the mesh).
Temperature control would have to have considerable range to accomodate (relatively) large variation in air flow.
It only looks practical for a fairly small tube and thus low volume -- higher volume would require considerable power for a very large heating element.
Insulation will be an issue. Tube material will probably have to be glass? or similar.
l3oertjie, generally I've found that no "flash" is due to low heat. I can vary the heat to go from huge volumes of vapor with no "flash" at all to so much flash that a very small inhale will make you cough from the intense tingling/harshness in the back of your throat. I don't think your problem is with the stainless steel wick.
Yikes! that looks to be about #200 mesh?
Try 400 mesh. I take 20 mm and roll it into a roll of 2 mm diameter. It looks almost like a solid rod. I will try to count next time but I believe I must end up with 5 or 6 layers in the roll (if you were to count layers from the center of the roll to the outside there would be 5 or 6 "rings" to it).
With 3 wraps I am assuming that is 34 gauge kanthal (0.16 mm)? If so then that should be fine.
Try 400 mesh. I take 20 mm and roll it into a roll of 2 mm diameter. It looks almost like a solid rod. I will try to count next time but I believe I must end up with 5 or 6 layers in the roll (if you were to count layers from the center of the roll to the outside there would be 5 or 6 "rings" to it).
With 3 wraps I am assuming that is 34 gauge kanthal (0.16 mm)? If so then that should be fine.
Ok, I'll take that back. Best I can tell (don't have my magnifying glass with me) it might be only 3 or 4 "rings" and I can actually see through the middle of the tube. The center of the tube might be the the width of a pin? but your's looks huge (relatively) and the mesh looks very coarse.
(I only wish I had a camera that good...)
(I only wish I had a camera that good...)
This just came to mind... It looks like your mesh roll is very large in diameter. If it actually is much larger than 2 mm diameter then the length of kanthal needed to make 3 wraps will be longer as well. Longer kanthal => more resistance => less heat. If you haven't done anything yet and that mesh seems to be wicking ok like it is, then first try removing 1 wrap of kanthal and try it with 2 wraps and see if that makes any difference for flash.
You should have included something in the pic for a sense of scale. A pic of your top cap also, with the vent hole (size noted) showing. A pic of it actually 'steaming' couldn't hurt either.
l3oertjie - your steel mesh doesn't look very oxidised to me either. When I oxidised mine (closely following Raidy's instructions) the mesh looked very blacked afterwards - and the pre-dipped liquid (then re-oxidised) gave the end a glossy look too.
Hey slopes u still using that mesh modified e2 u had going awhile ago?
Sent from somewhere in my daily travels....
Sent from somewhere in my daily travels....
I think the sharp pic quality is throwing things off a bit. I'd guess the +/- wires are 1mm, and the mesh is #325 twill. The color looks ok, its oxidized quite uniformly.
nickf41680 - "Hey slopes u still using that mesh modified e2 u had going awhile ago?"
No Nick - it lasted me a couple of months and then the coil popped. I keep meaning to make a replacement as it was a darn fine vape - better than the regular E2... a lot more throaty.
No Nick - it lasted me a couple of months and then the coil popped. I keep meaning to make a replacement as it was a darn fine vape - better than the regular E2... a lot more throaty.
asdaq, yes you are correct. I've used #325 twilled AND woven mesh. The wick is rolled at 1.8mm diameter with hardly any space in the centre (you can't really see that in the picture). The wick coils are less than 0.25mm apart I guess. I've used 17mm coiled to 1.8mm diameter. The syringe needles are 0.9mm diameter.
Your camera rocks, that is for sure. One thing I've noticed with regards to airflow and TH/ vapor is where the inlet hole is located. I tend to get the thickest vapor production at the base/bottom of the coil, and if the inlet is blowing towards the top of the wick and or coil, it bypasses this rich vapor and and gives a wetter stickier vape, and also condensates quicker. Not unlivable, but I prefer more vapor and get better results with a lower set inlet hole. l3oertjie, you might try a hole more directed towards the top of the wick and see if there is a difference. For otheres, one way to test if vapor could be higher is to vape it backwards as the mouthpiece is almost always in line with the wick. restricting the airflow in the mouthpiece might be necessary.
It appears the thicker the vapour production the less the TH would be. That is also evident from Raidy's original graph. I found that a courser mesh wicks more liquid - resulting in bigger droplets evaporating or almost "boiling" so that small drops of liquid mixes with true vaporised liquid. It is in other words a hot mist mixed with vaporised steam. The small droplets actually produce the TH and taste.
Bottom line - If you like TH you will have less vapour. If you like clouds of smoke you will have less TH. That's it.
Bottom line - If you like TH you will have less vapour. If you like clouds of smoke you will have less TH. That's it.
And you guys just thought I was doing something wrong when I said I didn't like the wetness.
And you guys just thought I was doing something wrong when I said I didn't like the wetness.
So you actually like the clouds of vapour I assume GummyBear? lol
I just discovered this thread this week and finally made it through the 1337 posts. This is some very impressive work. Very special thanks to Raidy for sharing with us. So it looks like I have some catching up to do. So I need to do some shopping. I like the vapor so I think I will go with 400 mesh, 34 awg kanthal wire. I also need some aluminum rod stock. Great work everyone!!
Suspended animation.
So is that it for this thread?
Did Raidy start a new thread somewhere?
So is that it for this thread?
Did Raidy start a new thread somewhere?
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