Even if your device shows Voltage, Resistance, Watts and Amps you still need at least an Ohm meter.
Your device only shows what it is trying to send out and receiving. OK, the receiving will be correct, but how to diagnose the receiving if you have no vapor? The receiving is Ohms. The sending is Volts or Watts.
Normally you would exchange the coil. Now if it still has no or little vapor you will strip down all parts and clean them. Still little or no vapor, you change the tank. Still the same. Now what? Replace bat and no diffs. Now you been without nicotine for 2 hours and start shouting at the wife and kids and kick the dog.
Been there and did that. Now I got me a Multimeter. Had 2 probs this week. My 1'st prob was no firing and no sound of any firing. Removed the tank and and checked the voltage. Pressed the firing button and released. No release and timed out after 15 secs. So button gets stuck closed and stays closed until the 15 secs protection shuts it off. Press again and nothing as the button is still closed.
Now my Voltmeter showed this to me. Got sorted by blowing the tube out with compressed air.
Second prob.
No vapor or firing sound. Went through the above with my Voltmeter and the bat part was working every time. Now what?
Replace the coil or tank? No. Switch the multimeter to resistance (Ohms). The coil was good at 2.8 ohms. Oh ....e. I have 3 connections between the bat and coil. One between the bat and adapter, one between the adapter and tank and one between the tank and coil. One must be faulty as in open or loose.
Without the OhmMeter you will have difficulty finding this. Luckily I had one and found that the adapter was not making good contact. They are telescopic and with a screwdriver I adjusted it to make contact.
Good vape again.
Without a multiMeter, I would not have found this and probably spent big bucks on buying new coils that would not have worked.
So get yourself a cheap MultiMeter or OhmMeter.
Hick. Burp.
Your device only shows what it is trying to send out and receiving. OK, the receiving will be correct, but how to diagnose the receiving if you have no vapor? The receiving is Ohms. The sending is Volts or Watts.
Normally you would exchange the coil. Now if it still has no or little vapor you will strip down all parts and clean them. Still little or no vapor, you change the tank. Still the same. Now what? Replace bat and no diffs. Now you been without nicotine for 2 hours and start shouting at the wife and kids and kick the dog.
Been there and did that. Now I got me a Multimeter. Had 2 probs this week. My 1'st prob was no firing and no sound of any firing. Removed the tank and and checked the voltage. Pressed the firing button and released. No release and timed out after 15 secs. So button gets stuck closed and stays closed until the 15 secs protection shuts it off. Press again and nothing as the button is still closed.
Now my Voltmeter showed this to me. Got sorted by blowing the tube out with compressed air.
Second prob.
No vapor or firing sound. Went through the above with my Voltmeter and the bat part was working every time. Now what?
Replace the coil or tank? No. Switch the multimeter to resistance (Ohms). The coil was good at 2.8 ohms. Oh ....e. I have 3 connections between the bat and coil. One between the bat and adapter, one between the adapter and tank and one between the tank and coil. One must be faulty as in open or loose.
Without the OhmMeter you will have difficulty finding this. Luckily I had one and found that the adapter was not making good contact. They are telescopic and with a screwdriver I adjusted it to make contact.
Good vape again.
Without a multiMeter, I would not have found this and probably spent big bucks on buying new coils that would not have worked.
So get yourself a cheap MultiMeter or OhmMeter.
Hick. Burp.
