Aluminum Mod w/DNA Questions

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venkman

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I'm building my first mod. I'm using the dna chip, and an aluminum enclosure. I plan on using a removable IMR 18650. I prefer to just swap a freshly charged battery into my mod in the morning/before going out, rather than charging an internal battery.

I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for mounting the battery contacts so that they're insulated and don't conduct through the aluminum case?

Also, the dna datasheet recommends attaching the chip to metal cases with thermal glue, such as Loctite 383. I've been able to find loctite 383, so i was wondering if anyone had suggestions for other good thermal glue? Also, i'm sure this is a silly questions, but the "metal heat spreader" they refer to is the square that says Evolv dna, right?

Thanks so much for any help.
 

MattBott

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I'm building my first mod. I'm using the DNA chip, and an aluminum enclosure. I plan on using a removable IMR 18650. I prefer to just swap a freshly charged battery into my mod in the morning/before going out, rather than charging an internal battery.

I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for mounting the battery contacts so that they're insulated and don't conduct through the aluminum case?

The most "professional" way would be to grab an 18650 battery holder (click the data sheet link for a PDF with drawing of it).

Or you can grab some terminals and hot glue / epoxy them in place.

Also, the DNA datasheet recommends attaching the chip to metal cases with thermal glue, such as Loctite 383. I've been able to find loctite 383, so i was wondering if anyone had suggestions for other good thermal glue? Also, i'm sure this is a silly questions, but the "metal heat spreader" they refer to is the square that says Evolv DNA, right?

Thanks so much for any help.

I'm not sure about the thermal glue. Yes, the large metal piece with the DNA logo is the heat spreader (heat sink). I haven't noticed my DNA getting hot enough to worry about it, but I'm using a plastic case.
 

MattBott

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thanks for the tip.

Do I need to worry about insulating the outside of the atty connector from the aluminum body?

Depends on the build. I personally would just by using some shrink wrap tubing around the connector and soldering your negative connection to the inside of it. Otherwise, your case would become a ground. If you can insulate all of your positive connections from the case, you don't really have to worry about insulating the 510 connector. But, like I said, I would because I'd be paranoid of something coming loose and causing a short.
 

venkman

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I would guess no. Also, since its an aluminum box, you can't solder to it. You would build it roughly the same way as a plastic box.

I think.

Sent from my XT910 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks.

Depends on the build. I personally would just by using some shrink wrap tubing around the connector and soldering your negative connection to the inside of it. Otherwise, your case would become a ground. If you can insulate all of your positive connections from the case, you don't really have to worry about insulating the 510 connector. But, like I said, I would because I'd be paranoid of something coming loose and causing a short.

Thank you. When you say "soldering your negative connection to the inside of it", what is the "it" that i'm soldering to the inside of?

I suppose I could insulate all of my positive connections, but i'd probably be paranoid too.

Thanks again guys, for all of the help and info. It is much appreciated.
 

MattBott

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Thanks.



Thank you. When you say "soldering your negative connection to the inside of it", what is the "it" that i'm soldering to the inside of?

I suppose I could insulate all of my positive connections, but i'd probably be paranoid too.

Thanks again guys, for all of the help and info. It is much appreciated.

"It" would be the 510 connector.
 
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