Am I allowed to...

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SassyCoder

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Am I allowed to build a micro coil on my rba section for my kanger subtank mini?

What is the difference between a standard coil and a micro coil other than the fact that one has more space - what should I expect performance wise?

The reason i ask this is for 2 reasons:
1. I'm a newb and I'm still learning even though I've been vaping or months
2. I'm not sure if micro coils are only for dripping rda decks or if i can use it on any type of deck.

I pretty much have all the gear (26 gauge wire, torch/flame, koh gen do cotton, clippers), I'm just waiting on a pair of jewellery pliers to come through the mail, I've been building standard coils atm they're ok but they could be better if i built micro coil.

I know it sounds like a silly question but in all the rba vids for the mini no one has built a micro coil so I was wondering if it was possible.

Thanks please help :):p
 
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Papa_Lazarou

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Microcoils will be fine in the subtank RBA. Essentially, it just means a smaller diameter coil (say, 2mm or less) that is compressed rather than spaced. They fire just fine in most any atty that will hold them.

In terms of performance, I find them to be easier to set up (build and mount) and maintain. As far as the actual vaping goes, they work pretty much just like "standard ugly" coils - comparable resistances work similarly.
 

Lessifer

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Micro coils, true micros that are 1/16" inner diameter or less, give you more concentrated heat. I've never gotten them to work well in a tank, though I run them in all of my rda's. You may want to try a contact coil, like a micro in that the wraps touch, but with a slightly larger ID, like 2mm. It's all part of the fun of rebuilding though, finding out what works best for you.
 

SassyCoder

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Microcoils will be fine in the subtank RBA. Essentially, it just means a smaller diameter coil (say, 2mm or less) that is compressed rather than spaced. They fire just fine in most any atty that will hold them.

In terms of performance, I find them to be easier to set up (build and mount) and maintain. As far as the actual vaping goes, they work pretty much just like "standard ugly" coils - comparable resistances work similarly.

Thank you,

Your the best :blush:
 

DingerCPA

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Welcome Sassy.

10 char just means that you have to have at least 10 characters in a post, or it won't save....

If someone has not typed enough of a response, they'll just augment with whatever to make it long enough...

Re: micro coils - yup. They're pretty easy. Make sure you have some sort of ohmmeter to measure the coil BEFORE you try to fire it :)
 

SassyCoder

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Micro coils, true micros that are 1/16" inner diameter or less, give you more concentrated heat. I've never gotten them to work well in a tank, though I run them in all of my rda's. You may want to try a contact coil, like a micro in that the wraps touch, but with a slightly larger ID, like 2mm. It's all part of the fun of rebuilding though, finding out what works best for you.

Yeah I find im wasting cotton by using smaller diameter for the coils tbh because it won't fit through. Ive got more in the post so I'm just going to use a bigger diameter screwdriver 2-3mm (i think the biggest I have is 2.5mm which should be fine).

Thanks :laugh:
 

SassyCoder

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Welcome Sassy.

10 char just means that you have to have at least 10 characters in a post, or it won't save....

If someone has not typed enough of a response, they'll just augment with whatever to make it long enough...

Re: micro coils - yup. They're pretty easy. Make sure you have some sort of ohmmeter to measure the coil BEFORE you try to fire it :)

Thank you,

I should know what char is i study computer science hahaha but that never clicked hehe ^_^ could've meant anything really.

Yeah i have my ohm reader on the way as well, I think my box mod is pretty accurate (sigelei 100w plus) but we'll see when i get my reader.

I think the purpose is so that I know what watts i should/maximum be using as a safety precaution as my box mod may well be inaccurate (am i correct)?
 
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edyle

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Yeah I find im wasting cotton by using smaller diameter for the coils tbh because it won't fit through. Ive got more in the post so I'm just going to use a bigger diameter screwdriver 2-3mm (i think the biggest I have is 2.5mm which should be fine).

Thanks :laugh:

I use 3mm and bigger just for simplicity; I don't actually measure it; I just use a small screwdriver that looks big enough
 

Cavenerd

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Thank you,

I should know what char is i study computer science hahaha but that never clicked hehe ^_^ could've meant anything really.

Yeah i have my ohm reader on the way as well, I think my box mod is pretty accurate but we'll see when i get my reader.

I think the purpose is so that I know what watts i should/maximum be using as a safety precaution as my box mod may well be inaccurate (am i correct)?


That depends on what box you have. Both my SX mini and DNa40 chips seem to be very accurate, or at least as accurate as my ohmmeter and/or fluke (they're all usually within ~.04 of each other)

My IPV3 is usually in the ballpark (within ~.05-.1) but not close enough for my comfort level. Also, I hate to say it, but my VA Variant is also usually wonky about getting the correct "initial" resistance off of a freshly made coil.

To further re-enforce some of the above: there is no reason that a micro shouldn't work in a tank, but I actually find them more fiddly to work with on tank decks. The coil is easy to mount but the wicking always gets me. I tried a vertical chimney coil in a K4 and it vapes like no one's business (I would tell you exactly how well it vaped, but it's "no one's business"), but leaked like a post-iceberg Titanic.

Good luck with the builds and be safe.

See you on the threads.



ALSO: keep waiting for the thread that is:

Am I allowed to... Post my bikini pics in ECF
 
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Robino1

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That depends on what box you have. Both my SX mini and DNa40 chips seem to be very accurate, or at least as accurate as my ohmmeter and/or fluke (they're all usually within ~.04 of each other)

My IPV3 is usually in the ballpark (within ~.05-.1) but not close enough for my comfort level. Also, I hate to say it, but my VA Variant is also usually wonky about getting the correct "initial" resistance off of a freshly made coil.

To further re-enforce some of the above: there is no reason that a micro shouldn't work in a tank, but I actually find them more fiddly to work with on tank decks. The coil is easy to mount but the wicking always gets me. I tried a vertical chimney coil in a K4 and it vapes like no one's business (I would tell you exactly how well it vaped, but it's "no one's business"), but leaked like a post-iceberg Titanic.

Good luck with the builds and be safe.

See you on the threads.



ALSO: keep waiting for the thread that is:

Am I allowed to... Post my bikini pics in ECF


NO.

Please, NOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
 

Susan~S

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Here's the "cute" versions of that!:)

giphy.gif
 

Wolfenstark

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I too have a Kanger Sub-tank mini. I know everyone is saying to use 26 gauge wire and I was wondering if you think it would be an issue if I use 29 gauge? I already have the 29 g and I am would rather not have to get the 26 g, unless it would make a big difference. Thanks.

29 will just need less wraps than the 26.
I like more wraps and I have 26g and 29g I use the 26g.
 

edyle

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I too have a Kanger Sub-tank mini. I know everyone is saying to use 26 gauge wire and I was wondering if you think it would be an issue if I use 29 gauge? I already have the 29 g and I am would rather not have to get the 26 g, unless it would make a big difference. Thanks.

Yes 29 is fine; just use the vape calculator to end up in the right ballpark of ohms to match the power you have;
thicker wire needs more watts per ohm.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
 
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