Ammit 25 build bane

[Mordacai]

Hello folks, hopefully you'll be able to resolve the issues I've been having in my Ammit 25 build odyssey.

First I was having issues with leaking and was miles away from flavortown, but after countless rebuilds and copious amounts of Muji and wire I finally got my coil sorted and entered into flavortown. I was taken aback and left speechless, but now I have a new issue that really irks me.

I seem to be getting an airlock forming in the tank. So then you exit flavortown as taste of the liquid diminishes and vapour production drops off a cliff, till eventually the cotton starts to get burnt a little.

I'm using a simple 6 wrap .34mm coil with an 3mm ID, at 0.64 ohms. TCR mode at 250°C and using 22 Watts.

Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm starting to like this rta, especially when it works.

Thanks folks.

 

[Geekvape_Official]

Hi @Mordacai.
Thanks for your support on Geekvape.

You may need to put more cotton in the tank to prevent the e-liquid from sticking the airflow.

The Ammit 25 is a tank of big cloud chaser and good flavor, so it is not recommended to use TCR mode, power mode with wattage no less than 40 watt would be better.

Besides, may I know what coil do you use? The rougher wire is suggested to use so that the coil can cover more space of the chamber. Make the coil with diameter of 3mm or bigger, so to support more cottons that can help prevent E-liquid from choking the airflow.

By the way, the wire can be considered: MTL KA1 Clapton wire - Regular Wires - Wires & Cotton Geek Vape Online Store.

 

[Mordacai]

Thanks for getting back to me.

Coil is 6 wrap of 0.34mm wire, with a 3mm ID.

Have been having some good luck with TCR though, even if it's not exactly geared towards it.

But the worst thing I'm experiencing is airlocks keep forming, so liquid in the wick ends up drying up and then you enter dry hit and burning cotton territory.

Also another related question is, coil placement. What is the best position?

 

[Lordron's_Drag]

Thanks for getting back to me.

Coil is 6 wrap of 0.34mm wire, with a 3mm ID.

Have been having some good luck with TCR though, even if it's not exactly geared towards it.

But the worst thing I'm experiencing is airlocks keep forming, so liquid in the wick ends up drying up and then you enter dry hit and burning cotton territory.

Also another related question is, coil placement. What is the best position?

usally in the atty is ideal. Lol

 

[Mordacai]

Yup, got that. Just wondering what height, as airflow is a little on the novel side.

But it's damned easy to build, apart from wicking and finding the optimal coil height.

But with wicking it's either tight as a misers purse or leaks like a sieve.

 

[Geekvape_Official]

Yup, got that. Just wondering what height, as airflow is a little on the novel side.

But it's damned easy to build, apart from wicking and finding the optimal coil height.

But with wicking it's either tight as a misers purse or leaks like a sieve.

There is no optimal coil height, all depends on how people vape. The wire you use is too thin. We would like to recommend to use thicker wire.

 

[kross8]

Bookmarked as I have Ammit 25on the way... That said,, totally dif deck with similar problem.. The Serpent SMM. After it's wicked perfectly, I take my sewing needle and create a tiny dedicated juice channel in the cotton. Both at the coil and at the tails area right at the deck. Ms. Serpent is a flavor atty and a complete drunk with ejuice,,, the needle trick has not hurt the flavor aspect and strangely improved her drinking habit. -go figure,,,, next time I take it apart I will try to remember to take pics

 

[Mordacai]

I've tried using thicker wire, but I end up with too long a ramp up to temperature and too higher heat capacity. I have an aversion to using Kanthal so I use SS316L with Muji cotton.

Wicking is my main issue, this is what I wish to resolve. But the Ammit 25 is proving to be a fickle beast.

So how do you obtain the balance between drying out and flooding? The so called goldilocks zone of wicking.

 

[Mordacai]

Thank you kross8, I've tried differing amounts of wicking with the 25 to varying degrees of success. But have finally found flavour.

Just can't chain vape and keep getting some leaking, so not all the way there.

Suprisingly though, sorted Ammit MTL out on a tweaked first build. It just the 25 that mocks me and erodes away my sanity.

 

[kross8]

Thank you kross8, I've tried differing amounts of wicking with the 25 to varying degrees of success. But have finally found flavour.

Just can't chain vape and keep getting some leaking, so not all the way there.

Suprisingly though, sorted Ammit MTL out on a tweaked first build. It just the 25 that mocks me and erodes away my sanity.

I am a flavor chaser for sure so I do feel your pain. yeah I chain vape 30+mls a day with my older 22mm tanks easy, the 24mm tanks lift me to 40-50mls!

Anyway,, we will get it all dialed in eventually

Fwiw- 2.5mm coil 24g kanthal A1 @5 wraps rayon .51ohms @ 28-40 watts single coil

Duel coils tend to be .20-28 @ 28watts

 

[Mordacai]

Got my coil running at approx 0.6 ohm (using TCR of 88, 22 Watts at 250°C) and when liquid is wicking well it's a joy.

As TCR depends upon the metal the coil uses, and SS316L is used for TCR/Wattage.

But kross8, I do think that you may like it when it's working well.

 

[kross8]

I am a flavor chaser for sure so I do feel your pain. yeah I chain vape 30+mls a day with my older 22mm tanks easy, the 24mm tanks lift me to 40-50mls!

Anyway,, we will get it all dialed in eventually

Fwiw- 2.5mm coil 24g kanthal A1 @5 wraps rayon .51ohms @ 28-40 watts single coil

Duel coils tend to be .20-28 @ 28watts

Wick as normal then make a channel with sewing needle as to keep the channel small and tidy

 

[kross8]

Got my coil running at approx 0.6 ohm (using TCR of 88, 22 Watts at 250°C) and when liquid is wicking well it's a joy.

As TCR depends upon the metal the coil uses, and SS316L is used for TCR/Wattage.

But kross8, I do think that you may like it when it's working well.

Got some pics posted for you 0230am here so I figure it's about lunchtime for you

 

[hittman]

I haven't used it in a long time but used an ammit 25 for quite some time. I always ran a 26/32 Clapton coil that would usually run around .5 ohms with 4-5 wraps. I'm not sure why you're getting the air lock situation as it never happened to me but I would always thin the tails out just a little and try to make sure the channels aren't jammed tight.

 

[ShamrockPat]

Still got 2 in daily rotation since they were released.

3.5mm SS coils. Claptons, either 2x28 x40, or 3x30 x40. No leaks anymore. They were finicky to wick. I cut a cotton pad in thirds, scottish roll, minor fluffing. Cotton in the jfc hole/wells, visible but not touching the bottom. Coil placement, legs down, and coil slightly pushed down so legs are not level, and coil just hitting above the bottom of the coil.

In the beginning they'd start seeping after about 3-4 days. When I tested my way above, I went 2 weeks with no seeping and only changed the wick cuz why not. Good luck.

Mordacai here's a slight Edit: "and coil just hitting above the bottom of the coil" That should have been "and air holes on side of deck just hitting above the bottom of the coil"

 

[Mordacai]

May have beaten this beast into submission, it doesn't seem to like Muji but loves Koh Gen Do.

As I'm using a 3mm ID coil I cut a 9mm strip of KGD, peel, roll, wick and comb. Simply cut the cotton straight across so it looks like a bow tie, cuts should be made to match the diameter of the widest part of the base.

And of course keep the tails off the bottom of the wick wells by about 1-2mm to allow pressure to equalize, otherwise you end up getting the tank airlocked. Then wicking stops and you enter dry hit and burning cotton country.

And thank you Wayneo for coil placement, I've settled for side airflow directly hitting the side of the coil. About halfway up, will play a little more with placement on next rebuild after throwing it in the ultrasonic cleaner. It's got liquid everywhere.

And thank you kross8, you've been very helpful. Your pictures gave me a few ideas that led me in the right direction and your support has been much appreciated.

 

[ShamrockPat]

Glad you got it Mordacai. I've found that if you close the airflow completely and there's any moisture on the metal inside that covered slot (~1cm x 2mm) then it's starting to seep/leak.

 

[Mordacai]

Aye, it's a fine balance between good wicking and leaking with this beast. But when you get it right it does like to reward you.

 

[kross8]

May have beaten this beast into submission, it doesn't seem to like Muji but loves Koh Gen Do.

As I'm using a 3mm ID coil I cut a 9mm strip of KGD, peel, roll, wick and comb. Simply cut the cotton straight across so it looks like a bow tie, cuts should be made to match the diameter of the widest part of the base.

And of course keep the tails off the bottom of the wick wells by about 1-2mm to allow pressure to equalize, otherwise you end up getting the tank airlocked. Then wicking stops and you enter dry hit and burning cotton country.

And thank you Wayneo for coil placement, I've settled for side airflow directly hitting the side of the coil. About halfway up, will play a little more with placement on next rebuild after throwing it in the ultrasonic cleaner. It's got liquid everywhere.

And thank you kross8, you've been very helpful. Your pictures gave me a few ideas that led me in the right direction and your support has been much appreciated.

this particular wick has been a super major cloud creator for sure. ..wasn't sure if I was very clear in my discription...those 2tiny dark dots/holes pointing down in the tails area are pin holes I made with the needle in the picture the holes go all the way down to lower deck.

Needle has some beads and battery wrap on it to make it easier to use and see,,, I don't want to lose it and find it the hard way

 

[Mordacai]

kross8, I've found out that Stainless Steel Knitting Needles are indispensable. I use a 3mm one for coil building and a 1.5mm for thinning and fluffing, works well and you can find them. Most of the time.

These are the ones.
Steel DPNs | HiyaHiya Europe