Any takers on this Kayfun Lite Clone Firing Problem?

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Nautiboy1279

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Hey guys, been building for about a year now, and had broke a drill bit into my real Kayfun last week trying to open the air flow, and ordered a clone to replace it that was well reviewed. All chrome with an XXL airflow. Anyhow, my ohm reader would read the coil (1.3), but throw it on my provari, and get OP (which means open) so its not seeing a connection it seems. Try to fire on the Provari and nothing, on a mech mod still nothing. So I back out the 510 screw which is the negative post screw I believe, and it starts to fire. Now mind you, the screw is now loose to where the negative half of the deck this screw holds in place is moving around kind of freely. If I back it out one more turn, it barely makes a connection again. So it seems it can't be too far out, or tight enough to hold everything in place. It has to be loose, but not too loose, and then it all fires normally. Sometimes though you unscrew the tank, put it back on, and it don't fire again. Assuming because the screw moved a little bit.

I tried taking everything apart, cleaning the insulators (even though its brand new), and even took the parts from my original kayfun (insulators, post, and neg half deck) and swapped them into the clone base, and had the same exact behavior. I am really at a loss here. Any suggestions on how to fix this and why this is happening? It is driving me nutso.

Def is nothing to do with the coil as I have been building coils for a while, and never had an issue, and just to triple check, I made 3 different coils and tested with all of them.

Thanks guys
 

Asbestos4004

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Consistency with clones is too high of an expectation. Some work, some don't...even from the same company. Clones have gotten better but its still a gamble.
That screw needs to be tight. If the block moves, it'll short out. You can try a small delrin oring on the screw to drop the 510 a tiny bit.
 

Nautiboy1279

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Ok thanks, I was thinking something like that, but was hoping there was a more solid guarenteed fix for this. The machining on the threads and the unit as a whole is better quality than any Kayfun clone I have seen before. Every thread is like butter, and the airflow is perfect.

With all the original KFL parts (block, screw, and insulators) it did the same thing. I guess maybe the issue resides in the length of the base and 510 thread? It looked similar to the original, but I guess even the most minor difference can be all the difference you need.
 

Asbestos4004

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Yes...especially on a provari. That 510 is where it is. It should fire on a much, though. Do you have one with a fully adjustable 510?
I was also thinking you could remove the center pin and carefully file down the 510...but you have to be real careful or it won't screw on to anything again.
 

Rodeorat

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Those KFL+ clones have a 510 pin that sits TOO flush with the 510 threading. Additionally, I believe the 510 threading is a hair shorter than your average topper too.
Since you cant adjust the screw depth on a KFL, you can either pull up the pin on your PV or add a delrin spacer/oring to the 510 screw so it sits proud of the threading a touch.
 

Nautiboy1279

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Yes...especially on a provari. That 510 is where it is. It should fire on a much, though. Do you have one with a fully adjustable 510?
I was also thinking you could remove the center pin and carefully file down the 510...but you have to be real careful or it won't screw on to anything again.

Yes I have a Sentinel M16, and it will not fire on either of those mods unless that screw is in a perfect position. Can I just grab a reg o-ring from the hardware store and give that a go? I assume it sits just under the actual screw head?
 

Bigd432

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Nautiboy1279

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Xcighippy

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This would be great if I didn't already explain that I had a real Kayfun Lite that I screwed up a while back trying to drill the air hole out a bit (bit snapped), and used all those parts to "overhaul" this new clone, and NO DICE. Same thing happens.
Just a thought. You could salvage your original with the broken off drill by drilling a new air hole on the opposite side. You will probably need a drill press to do it though.
 

Shootist

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This would be great if I didn't already explain that I had a real Kayfun Lite that I screwed up a while back trying to drill the air hole out a bit (bit snapped), and used all those parts to "overhaul" this new clone, and NO DICE. Same thing happens.

You have 2 options.
1) File down the 510 threads (NOT the center screw. Just the outer threads), but only do that if when you screw it on a Mod it doesn't thread all the way down.

2) Go to your local hardware store and get a delrin/plastic washer and fit it under the head of the center screw.

Also that screw is the positive terminal. Not the negative.
 

Nautiboy1279

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Yes great suggestion. I was told that, but unfortunately no drill press =(. I just read someone who took the bottom insulator off another kayfun to add it under the other one, less the collar of course (cut with a razor or something). But that may work. I will have to mess around. I just hate constantly emptying and refilling tanks. Is it me or does it seem that you loose some juice during this process, everytime? lol
 

Nautiboy1279

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You have 2 options.
1) File down the 510 threads (NOT the center screw. Just the outer threads), but only do that if when you screw it on a Mod it doesn't thread all the way down.

2) Go to your local hardware store and get a delrin/plastic washer and fit it under the head of the center screw.

Also that screw is the positive terminal. Not the negative.

Im going to give this same idea a try with the bottom insulator of my other Kayfun without the collar, and see if this does the trick! Thanks for everyones help here, hopefully I can salvage this one at least lol.
 

crxess

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If people would just read a little then this forum wouldn't even exist. It's here so people can ask questions and get answers. Not to be belittled in the process.

Ignorant and incorrect. Why do you think we have a Search Feature?

This would be great if I didn't already explain that I had a real Kayfun Lite that I screwed up a while back trying to drill the air hole out a bit (bit snapped), and used all those parts to "overhaul" this new clone, and NO DICE. Same thing happens.

You did not look at the parts - Replacement pin WITH adjustable 510 screw on the end - SOLVES the reach issue without modifying the 510 threading on the Base. Russians come standard with this configuration. Kayfuns can benefit from it.
I have 2 fitted and the devices fire on any mod I have.:)
 

Nautiboy1279

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Ignorant and incorrect. Why do you think we have a Search Feature?



You did not look at the parts - Replacement pin WITH adjustable 510 screw on the end - SOLVES the reach issue without modifying the 510 threading on the Base. Russians come standard with this configuration. Kayfuns can benefit from it.
I have 2 fitted and the devices fire on any mod I have.:)

I did see the parts, but did not see anything about an "adjustable" screw. I could back out my screw, but it would just be very tempermental. It would loosen or tighten from taking it on and off the tank, and it would stop firing again. So I cut a piece of the bottom insulator from my original kayfun, and it turned out that it worked, but the screw was then way too far out, only screwing in two twists into most my mods. So I had to take it apart again, take out the tiny little piece of extra insulator, and cut it down even further without cracking it. What a pain in the ...... Anyhow, its working now, but here was the description on the parts you linked:

"This listing is for a COMPLETE rebuild/overhaul kit for the ToBeCo Kayfun Lite PLUS RDA. IT INCLUDES THE BLOCK, INSULATORS, SILICONE RING, CENTER POST/CONTACT, AND ALL THE SCREWS!!! This is not a stripped down version with just o-rings and screws. It even includes the tools you need to perform the task. Block is made of stainless steel instead of that chromed brass. "

If I seen 'adjustable' it would have set off a bell, but no such luck. Fixed now anyway, but thanks for the suggestions everyone.
 
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