any USB mod for the joytech 510?
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Getting ready to do that as soon as I order some replacements. Going to give the manual a go for this, hopefully I can maintain the switch 
. If not I don't have to drill a hole.
Both of the 801 passthroughs I have done worked out well.
Found something from Apple with a very nice thin flexible cable that is much nicer on the 801s than the standard USB cable. Hopefully I can find more of them at the thrift store, from Apple they would probably be $50 or so.
. If not I don't have to drill a hole.Both of the 801 passthroughs I have done worked out well.
Found something from Apple with a very nice thin flexible cable that is much nicer on the 801s than the standard USB cable. Hopefully I can find more of them at the thrift store, from Apple they would probably be $50 or so
.
I'm glad you're doing this first. My 510 manual batt just kicked it and I thought it would make a great conversion to a usb pass through...
by the way, I took it apart, those switches are very delicate. You can pop the pushbutton off with a pushpin and slide the whole switch assy out the end. The switch is on a separate board that is lightly glued in place. Good luck.
You could always just pay $25 for one- Electronicstix.com
It comes with in-line battery box and manual switch.
It comes with in-line battery box and manual switch.
Thanks for the input. Going slow and easy sounds like the ticket here .
Hopefully I have enough probes to be able to get it apart without destroying it. What would be ideal would for there to be enough wire to be able to tack in a USB cable.
If I can't preserve the switch, the PCB mount switches I have been using are working out well enough even though they are supposed to be 30 or 50 mA rated. I really do need to get an ammeter in the circuit on the next one to see what the current draw really is (I keep forgetting to do that).
.Hopefully I have enough probes to be able to get it apart without destroying it. What would be ideal would for there to be enough wire to be able to tack in a USB cable.
If I can't preserve the switch, the PCB mount switches I have been using are working out well enough even though they are supposed to be 30 or 50 mA rated. I really do need to get an ammeter in the circuit on the next one to see what the current draw really is (I keep forgetting to do that
).
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Nah, for $2 and about 10 minutes of my time that just isn't worth it to me. Besides I get to have some fun and learn something
.
For me, I have decided against using the usb for the 510.
Reason is, the atomizer gets hot fast. And when the atomizer is hot there is a danger of burning it out. Typically when you are on a battery you are more aware of how much you are using it and can limit the burn time to prevent atomizer failure. I found when on USB I tend to fry atomizers on my pen style more often by over heating it.
My solution is I have 6 510 manual batteries and 2 chargers. I put together 2 510 ecigs and alternate between them if I feel like vaping constantly on some low nic juice. This keeps the atomizers from over heating and also allows me to keep the batteries cool which actually increases there usable time.
Yesterday I swapped batteries on my singe 510 8 times. Today while using 2 ecigs I only swapped batteries 2 times. That equals 4 batteries used compared to 8. I still managed to vape the same amount, I just didnt over work the batteries.
On a USB I think I would likely fry atomizers to often.
Reason is, the atomizer gets hot fast. And when the atomizer is hot there is a danger of burning it out. Typically when you are on a battery you are more aware of how much you are using it and can limit the burn time to prevent atomizer failure. I found when on USB I tend to fry atomizers on my pen style more often by over heating it.
My solution is I have 6 510 manual batteries and 2 chargers. I put together 2 510 ecigs and alternate between them if I feel like vaping constantly on some low nic juice. This keeps the atomizers from over heating and also allows me to keep the batteries cool which actually increases there usable time.
Yesterday I swapped batteries on my singe 510 8 times. Today while using 2 ecigs I only swapped batteries 2 times. That equals 4 batteries used compared to 8. I still managed to vape the same amount, I just didnt over work the batteries.
On a USB I think I would likely fry atomizers to often.
Yeah, I'm with you on the modding, I don't use the passthroughs either, As soon as one of my manual 510 batteries dies it will be cut in half and grafted onto my mini-pipe. Hehehe manual mini-pipe.
The passthrough, IMO, is nothing more than a manual battery that you don't have to keep recharging. Hold the button down on a manual for 5 minutes and I'd guess you could fry the atomizer that way too. I know I can get mine toasty enough during extended vaping sessions .
One easy way to cool them quickly is to just take a hit without hitting the button, works quite well.
Just gotta use common sense.
Also, I do plan on putting a diode in there to reduce the voltage down to what a fully charged battery would be. My first passthrough for the 801 didn't have one and it didn't seem to have any adverse effects (used it for about 3 weeks and then gave it to my neighbor who is vaping merrily on with it). The second one I built I did put the diode in just for good measure, two days into it with no problems whatsoever.
Main reason I want one of these is that I also go through about 8 batteries a day and I have a USB port right at my elbow. Plus I get tired of getting up and going over to the charger to rotate them...
.One easy way to cool them quickly is to just take a hit without hitting the button, works quite well.
Just gotta use common sense
.Also, I do plan on putting a diode in there to reduce the voltage down to what a fully charged battery would be. My first passthrough for the 801 didn't have one and it didn't seem to have any adverse effects (used it for about 3 weeks and then gave it to my neighbor who is vaping merrily on with it). The second one I built I did put the diode in just for good measure, two days into it with no problems whatsoever.
Main reason I want one of these is that I also go through about 8 batteries a day and I have a USB port right at my elbow
. Plus I get tired of getting up and going over to the charger to rotate them...
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Reason is, the atomizer gets hot fast. And when the atomizer is hot there is a danger of burning it out. Typically when you are on a battery you are more aware of how much you are using it and can limit the burn time to prevent atomizer failure. I found when on USB I tend to fry atomizers on my pen style more often by over heating it.
I had the same concern; when I put together my first 901 passthrough, not only did the atomizer get incredibly hot in a short amount of time (and ate juice like mad), but it also made my laptop screech that I was drawing too much power through my USB port.
I'm an amateur when it comes to electronics, but I did a whole slew of research and dug through this forum. After all that, I found out that putting a 1N4004 rectifier diode in series with the power coming from the USB to the battery (anode side attached to the switch, cathode side attached to the lead going to the N Coaxial power connection) dropped the voltage by about 0.8v.
The result is that the atomizer is only getting the amount of power it would from a freshly charged battery, and it's not drawing as much electricity from the computer. The laptop stopped giving me the warning, and the atomizer is only as working as hard as it would be attached to a battery.
My only remaining step is to seal the N Coaxial DC jack with some hot glue, because the jack has an open spot and draws way too easily for my liking. I plan on putting a ballpoint pen cartridge over the connection point to keep the glue from getting on it, and then filling around it. Should solve the draw problem . . .
Anyway, I'm off the point. If you're concerned about frying your atomizer, just add a 1N4004 diode. You can pick up 2 from any Radio Shack for a mere 99 cents.
Nash
I had the same concern; when I put together my first 901 passthrough, not only did the atomizer get incredibly hot in a short amount of time (and ate juice like mad), but it also made my laptop screech that I was drawing too much power through my USB port.
I'm an amateur when it comes to electronics, but I did a whole slew of research and dug through this forum. After all that, I found out that putting a 1N4004 rectifier diode in series with the power coming from the USB to the battery (anode side attached to the switch, cathode side attached to the lead going to the N Coaxial power connection) dropped the voltage by about 0.8v.
The result is that the atomizer is only getting the amount of power it would from a freshly charged battery, and it's not drawing as much electricity from the computer. The laptop stopped giving me the warning, and the atomizer is only as working as hard as it would be attached to a battery.
My only remaining step is to seal the N Coaxial DC jack with some hot glue, because the jack has an open spot and draws way too easily for my liking. I plan on putting a ballpoint pen cartridge over the connection point to keep the glue from getting on it, and then filling around it. Should solve the draw problem . . .
Anyway, I'm off the point. If you're concerned about frying your atomizer, just add a 1N4004 diode. You can pick up 2 from any Radio Shack for a mere 99 cents.
Nash
check this thread out Enjoy
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ura-c-joye510-usb-passthrough-mod-v1-0-a.html
Enjoy http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...ura-c-joye510-usb-passthrough-mod-v1-0-a.html
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