Silver wire with silver bearing solder. Attach the silver wire to where the wires are originally attached in the connector and on air tube and feed through the holes in the ceramic cup. Bend them over/outside of the ceramic cup and attach your resistance wire to the "legs".
You'll start by removing the ceramic cup from the air tube.
Snip the wires from the connector and air tube, noting that there is already solder there)
Push the air tube out through the connector, being careful not to damage the insulator
With a tiny set of tweezers, remove the insulator
Solder a post (approx 1"/25mm) vertically from the inside edge of the connector (pre-soldering the leg will help) The connector will need to be very hot to melt the original solder for bonding. You will want some extra slack to be trimmed after re-assembly
Solder another post to the air tube (parallel/vertical) leaving room for the ceramic cup to slide back into its original station with the new leg extending beyond the top of the ceramic cup
After the connector has sufficiently cooled apply a drop of e-liquid or something to assist re-installation of insulator (lube)
Being extra careful not to tear insulator, re-install insulator
Re-insert center positive pin/air tube with newly attached positive leg
Almost done
When looking down, into the ceramic cup from above, you'll see the center hole and 2 smaller holes on either side between the center hole and the hash where the wick rests. These holes are where the wires originally fed through. This is where you will align either leg when you're re-attaching the ceramic cup to the air tube.
Once the ceramic cup is seated on the air tube and both legs are through the adjactent holes, bend the legs outward over the lip of the hash where the wick rests.
Trim excess silver material
Silver wire will stabilize the ceramic cup on the air tube and will allow for a new coil/ wick to be installed in your rebuildable CE2.
Twist either end of the replacement coils onto either leg
Enjoy!