anyone experienced "hot legs" with their REO?

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paulw2014

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I just bought a REO but one thing that concerns me is rebuilding the coils myself. I tried it before and ended up with a bad taste. Specifically, I'm talking about "hot legs", legs of the coil that glows.

Have anyone here experienced it when building for the REO?

I wonder if buying precoiled wicks would solve this problem. It might be because I didn't coil it correctly, but what causes hot legs anyway?
 

Raynman

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You could buy precoiled but what's the fun in that...JK. Try not to over think this MY first coil was great and I learned from this video.http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=PELzzWqkfts I also watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkc6uasV24E These were made before the Super X Drifter ones. Just watch these videos and the ones from Super X and you should be set. They are as easy as all get out. If you need any help I'm just right down 26 we can meet up somewhere between
 

zmauls

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There is a one-and-done way to get rid of hot legs, and it's very easy. After installing your coil, dry burn it for a few seconds. While it is still hot (not necessarily still red), take a pair of needle nose or otherwise tiny pliers and clamp the ends of your coil together. This will immediately get rid of hot legs.
 

paulw2014

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There is a one-and-done way to get rid of hot legs, and it's very easy. After installing your coil, dry burn it for a few seconds. While it is still hot (not necessarily still red), take a pair of needle nose or otherwise tiny pliers and clamp the ends of your coil together. This will immediately get rid of hot legs.

I see, thanks for the advice.

But do you know the reason for it? Like a theoretical reason why it gets rid of them?
 
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super_X_drifter

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Here's an easier way to get rid of em:

Once you install your coil and fire it, release the fire button. Now slide the same diameter mandrel as you used to mount your coil back thru the coil. Now gently slide it back and forth a few times like its a pool cue stick and you are about to take a shot.

Remove mandrel and fire again. Notice that the Hot legs are gone.

No need to squeeze the coil anymore. :)

That was like 15 minutes ago :)
 

zmauls

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Here's an easier way to get rid of em:

Once you install your coil and fire it, release the fire button. Now slide the same diameter mandrel as you used to mount your coil back thru the coil. Now gently slide it back and forth a few times like its a pool cue stick and you are about to take a shot.

Remove mandrel and fire again. Notice that the Hot legs are gone.

No need to squeeze the coil anymore. :)

That was like 15 minutes ago :)

This seems harder than my way, what with my Parkinson's and all :'(
 

paulw2014

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There is a one-and-done way to get rid of hot legs, and it's very easy. After installing your coil, dry burn it for a few seconds. While it is still hot (not necessarily still red), take a pair of needle nose or otherwise tiny pliers and clamp the ends of your coil together. This will immediately get rid of hot legs.

I'm sure this will work, and will do that. This is also what they suggest on several videos on Youtube.

But I'm just curious as to why it works. What is the science behind it? anyone know?
 

SLIPPY_EEL

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both xdrifter and maul's ways will work and you can also do it an easier way haha..

do it like drifters way but after you let go of the fire button.. run a screwdriver along the outside of the coil...

obviously tilt the screwdriver or tweezers so it skips over the coils quickly and while they are losing the glow is best..

you may need to heat up then release fire button and run something metal across the top a few times in a row

also works on coils that aren't touching(open coils)
 
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zmauls

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I see, thanks for the advice.

But do you know the reason for it? Like a theoretical reason why it gets rid of them?

It gets rid of them the same way the other methods do; by isolating the current. Rubbing plastic or rubber or glass would not work because there is no polarization, but squeezing with these materials would work because it causes the coils to contact each other. When the coils make contact with another metal surface, they become polarized and the current is directed through them (specifically) as opposed to the alternate means of travel (the legs). Scientifically speaking, all an electrical current "wants" to do is escape, so it will take the easiest way available to do so. This is the basis of design for circuitry and electrical connections. I imagine if you built a coil and rubbed a piece of metal against the legs (as opposed to the coil), they would become the target instead, and the coil itself would stay relatively cool.
 
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