Anyone here used fasttech.

[terry w]

I contacted them and asked what the min order on juice was for free post.Reply...£100.
Be real most other companies do it on £25/30.

Well it was my first and last time with them george ! How can they say they didn`t know about them adaptors, yet they are still going to do a recall ?

 

[Pictor]

That's what I was trying to say with the chart I posted, with your 1.8 ohm coil you are not vaping @ between 5.6 & 7 watts until the battery depletes below 3.8v at full voltage you are actually using it at 11watts, irrespective of what the istick tells you.

I'm currently using Doughnut in a MOW with a 2.0ohm coil at 5.5W - the iStick is showing 2.2ohm 3.4v and it's about 1/3 down.
So 2.0ohms at 5.5W shows a purple square with 4.0 in it ....haven't a clue what it means!
....but, if I look at 2.2 as the iStick reads, I get a blue square with 8 in it - does that part mean it's operating at 8W?

 

[Brynglas]

How can they say they didn`t know about them adaptors, yet they are still going to do a recall ?

Too true.
Thing is Terry,most UK suppliers generally don't give a s**t.Just give me the money.
Seems very different Stateside,they seem to want their customers to leave happy.

 

[terry w]

I watched a guy do 12 wraps on the v2 on you tube.It seemed to work well.
But i think if i use 28g i should need 9 wraps.
On the vids they seemed to think the more wraps would give a bigger surface area of wick.I don't know, do you think they were right or wrong.

What i am saying is 13 wraps is a lot to fit on a 23 mm base, you would be better using 30 gauge wire. 8 wraps or 29 gauge @ 10 wraps

 

[Brynglas]

THIS is the steam engines calculations george At the specs you give.

What i am saying is 13 wraps is a lot to fit on a 23 mm base, you would be better using 30 gauge wire.

Mmmm!
I was going to wrap at In.Dia of 2mm,on the calculator that gives 9.5 wraps.Think it will be a bit of "suck it and see"
What figures were you planning on using>

 

[terry w]

Mmmm!
I was going to wrap at In.Dia of 2mm,on the calculator that gives 9.5 wraps.Think it will be a bit of "suck it and see"
What figures were you planning on using>

Doh, ignore my last post george, you are indeed correct, i hadn`t put in the coil dia. Personally i like to be around the 1 ohm mark. But now knowing what i know about the i-sticks, i will be building my coils around 2 ohms for them. But yeah for my IPV around 1.

 

[Brynglas]

Anyway,tiring work cleaning cookers.
I'm off for some kip.

Night All.

 

[terry w]

I'm currently using Doughnut in a MOW with a 2.0ohm coil at 5.5W - the iStick is showing 2.2ohm 3.4v and it's about 1/3 down.
So 2.0ohms at 5.5W shows a purple square with 4.0 in it ....haven't a clue what it means!
....but, if I look at 2.2 as the iStick reads, I get a blue square with 8 in it - does that part mean it's operating at 8W?

Yes trish, i think that is pretty much correct

EDIT i think the 4.0 is the state of your battery, 4.0 volts left.

 

[terry w]

Anyway,tiring work cleaning cookers.
I'm off for some kip.

Night All.

Night mate.

 

[Pictor]

Yes trish, i think that is pretty much correct

EDIT i think the 4.0 is the state of your battery, 4.0 volts left.

The 4.0 in a purple square is on the chart.

 

[Bobw1951]

You can still build with Kanthal can't you bob,i know it's not using it to the full effect ,but it is still ok?

Yes but you won't be able to do the Temperature control, just normal watts/volts

 

[terry w]

The 4.0 in a purple square is on the chart.

Yep i think that is what is left of the battery charge ! Fully charged 4.2 then down to 3. whatever

 

[Pictor]

Yep i think that is what is left of the battery charge ! Fully charged 4.2 then down to 3. whatever

But how would the chart know how much charge is in the battery?

 

[Bobw1951]

I have been giving that a bit of thought bob, and i am not saying it didn`t happen, but ron said he went through the windscreen when going round a corner ! Must have been turning that bloody corner at some mph, and surely you would be thrown sideways and not straight forward. ?

Yes, a bit weird, and even weirder that he just stopped posting

 

[terry w]

But how would the chart know how much charge is in the battery?

I guess they have all the equipment to run the tests trish, so if your coil is 2 ohms on a fully charged battery, it will be firing at X watts, but as the battery starts running down, so will the wattage, so it is then that you need to start upping the watts on the i-stick.

 

[terry w]

Yes, a bit weird, and even weirder that he just stopped posting

Indeed ! it get weirderer and weirderer Now please help me with trisha

 

[Pictor]

I guess they have all the equipment to run the tests trish, so if your coil is 2 ohms on a fully charged battery, it will be firing at X watts, but as the battery starts running down, so will the wattage, so it is then that you need to start upping the watts on the i-stick.

But I thought the chart showed what you'd actually be getting according to what the display is showing.

Indeed ! it get weirderer and weirderer Now please help me with trisha

Yes! ....this chart thing is irritating me - best if I forget about it and just carry on!

 

[Bobw1951]

I'm currently using Doughnut in a MOW with a 2.0ohm coil at 5.5W - the iStick is showing 2.2ohm 3.4v and it's about 1/3 down.
So 2.0ohms at 5.5W shows a purple square with 4.0 in it ....haven't a clue what it means!
....but, if I look at 2.2 as the iStick reads, I get a blue square with 8 in it - does that part mean it's operating at 8W?

You have to ignore what the iStick is saying if the figures are in purple, so 2.0 ohm @ 5.5w is what you will get when the battery actually gets down to 4.0v (not showing 4.0v) so anything in the purple will only operate at the wattage shown on the left when the battery drops to that level (1/3 down would be about 3.9v 1/2 would be about 3.7v)

If you set the iStick to any wattage within the blue then the iStick is regulated and will out put those wattages so yes 2.2ohm anywhere between 8 and 13w it will give those actual wattages, but if you set it to 6w then it would still output 8w until it got down to 3.9v then you would get 7w and when it got down to 3.6v you would get your 6w.

EDIT: Going on your initial figures of 5.5w, 3.4v is the voltage you are drawing and you are actually using 7w not 5.5w which you would not get until the battery level had dropped by about 2/3

 

[terry w]

But I thought the chart showed what you'd actually be getting according to what the display is showing.

Yes! ....this chart thing is irritating me - best if I forget about it and just carry on!

You have to ignore what the iStick is saying if the figures are in purple, so 2.0 ohm @ 5.5w is what you will get when the battery actually gets down to 4.0v (not showing 4.0v) so anything in the purple will only operate at the wattage shown on the left when the battery drops to that level (1/3 down would be about 3.9v 1/2 would be about 3.7v)

If you set the iStick to any wattage within the blue then the iStick is regulated and will out put those wattages so yes 2.2ohm anywhere between 8 and 13w it will give those actual wattages, but if you set it to 6w then it would still output 8w until it got down to 3.9v then you would get 7w and when it got down to 3.6v you would get your 6w.

I`ve got headache now night night you two. And don`t forget i am colour blind

 

[Bobw1951]

Doh, ignore my last post george, you are indeed correct, i hadn`t put in the coil dia. Personally i like to be around the 1 ohm mark. But now knowing what i know about the i-sticks, i will be building my coils around 2 ohms for them. But yeah for my IPV around 1.

But I thought you wanted to up your wattage, if that's the case then you need to do about 1.8 to get between 10 and 16w or 1.5 if you want to go between 12 and 20w