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I think he meens the case of the atomizer as this is the other terminal, If it will make things easyer for people I can take some photos showing how to do it
Hi guys
I took Harry to mean the outer rim like Richie says. It worked anyway!
Emp
I took Harry to mean the outer rim like Richie says. It worked anyway!
Emp
just got mine today..that same model at kelpin. get a reading of 36-38 off first atmzr. i have it switched to 200 on the dial, not 200k per emp's advice. that sound right? what should i switch it to for a battery voltage reading?
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Hi DC.
I presume you're getting 3.6 to 3.8 ohms on your atomizer. Areading of 36-38 ohms would propably mean your atomizer is shot.
For battery voltage you should set it to 20V DC. Expect a reading of 3.5 to 4.2 volts depending on the state of charge
I presume you're getting 3.6 to 3.8 ohms on your atomizer. Areading of 36-38 ohms would propably mean your atomizer is shot.
For battery voltage you should set it to 20V DC. Expect a reading of 3.5 to 4.2 volts depending on the state of charge
OK. here's a simple guide to check the coil in your atomizer.
First you need a multimeter set to the lowest ohms(Ω) setting, as you can see in photo 1 the lowest setting on this meter is 200ohms. Any cheap meter will do, your local hardware store should have them. I would advise a digital meter like the one shown in the photo as there is an art to reading the analog ones.
Photo 1.
Now you have your meter set to ohms you are ready to start. Take your atomizer and look at the end that mates to the battery, you should notice that it seems to have a raised part in the middle and a silver rim on the outer, these are the terminals that mate up to there oposite counterparts on the baterry and make the connection. Now you have identified your terminals you can take you first probe and hold it in the centre (you can use the hole in the middle as a guide if you find it easier). While holding your centre probe in place take your second probe and hold it to the outer metal rim. You should now have something that looks like photo 2.
Photo 2.
As you can see in photo 2 this atomizer has a resistance of 3.5, the two main things to look for when fault finding are open circuit and closed circuit. An open circuit is when there is a break in the wires inside the atomizer which literaly breaks the circuit and stops the heater coil from getting any power, if this happens you could try to strip it and re-solder the break but this may prove to be too difficult. A closed circuit means that the two terminals have somehow connected to each other inside the atomizer and are bypassing the heating coil completely. This can be bad if you connect it to your battery as it could cause your chip to blow rendering the battery useless. Photo 3 shows what you will see if the atomizer is open circuit.
Photo 3.
Photo 4 shows what you will see if your atomizer is short circuit, if you see this avoid connecting this to a battery as you risk damaging it if you havent already. Also it's a good thing to remember even though lithium batteries are a good source of power they don't respond well to being shorted out or being punctured as they can catch fire in those situations.
Photo 4.
Tip: after using a multi meter make sure you don't leave it set to ohms, the reason being next time you use the meter you could be testing volts and forget it is set to ohms, doing this will cause your meter to either pop its internal safty diode (commonly referred to as an "idiot diode") or if it's a good meter it will have a fuse that will need replacing.
First you need a multimeter set to the lowest ohms(Ω) setting, as you can see in photo 1 the lowest setting on this meter is 200ohms. Any cheap meter will do, your local hardware store should have them. I would advise a digital meter like the one shown in the photo as there is an art to reading the analog ones.
Photo 1.
Now you have your meter set to ohms you are ready to start. Take your atomizer and look at the end that mates to the battery, you should notice that it seems to have a raised part in the middle and a silver rim on the outer, these are the terminals that mate up to there oposite counterparts on the baterry and make the connection. Now you have identified your terminals you can take you first probe and hold it in the centre (you can use the hole in the middle as a guide if you find it easier). While holding your centre probe in place take your second probe and hold it to the outer metal rim. You should now have something that looks like photo 2.
Photo 2.
As you can see in photo 2 this atomizer has a resistance of 3.5, the two main things to look for when fault finding are open circuit and closed circuit. An open circuit is when there is a break in the wires inside the atomizer which literaly breaks the circuit and stops the heater coil from getting any power, if this happens you could try to strip it and re-solder the break but this may prove to be too difficult. A closed circuit means that the two terminals have somehow connected to each other inside the atomizer and are bypassing the heating coil completely. This can be bad if you connect it to your battery as it could cause your chip to blow rendering the battery useless. Photo 3 shows what you will see if the atomizer is open circuit.
Photo 3.
Photo 4 shows what you will see if your atomizer is short circuit, if you see this avoid connecting this to a battery as you risk damaging it if you havent already. Also it's a good thing to remember even though lithium batteries are a good source of power they don't respond well to being shorted out or being punctured as they can catch fire in those situations.
Photo 4.
Tip: after using a multi meter make sure you don't leave it set to ohms, the reason being next time you use the meter you could be testing volts and forget it is set to ohms, doing this will cause your meter to either pop its internal safty diode (commonly referred to as an "idiot diode") or if it's a good meter it will have a fuse that will need replacing.
that right clav..3.6 ohms..my bad. still no joy on the battery reading. i have the red probe connected to the upper red hole (10adc) on the multi-meter and the black one on the black hole. this right? for the resistence i had the red one switched to the middle hole. set to 20v now. does it matter which probes i use on the battery?
thanks for the pics gto. exellent demo
thanks for the pics gto. exellent demo
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for testing the battery voltage you want the meter set to Vdc (volts Direct Curent) if is have symbols insted of DC you want the one that have two stripes going left to right and the bottom strip will be broken, you don't want the one with the wavey line. if you have it set to A thats amps and another reading all together for this to work it needs to be inline with a running circuit to measure the amps being drawn from the battery
take a look at my atomizer photos and imagine that the atomizer is the battery and the probes should be in the same place, at no point let the two probes touch or join the inner to the outer as this will pop the battery which is never a good thing. don't forget you need to blow into the light end of the battery to trigger the switch and turn the circuit on
take a look at my atomizer photos and imagine that the atomizer is the battery and the probes should be in the same place, at no point let the two probes touch or join the inner to the outer as this will pop the battery which is never a good thing. don't forget you need to blow into the light end of the battery to trigger the switch and turn the circuit on
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ok. so set it to 20 vdc. connect the red probe to the 10adc hole? and the black to the black? or both in red? does it matter which probes i use on the terminals of the battery?
super useful info about the closed circuit reading on the attzs. im never going to test them out with anything other than this again.
super useful info about the closed circuit reading on the attzs. im never going to test them out with anything other than this again.
you should have 3 probe holes, 1.Adc 2.com/neutral 3.VΩmA
If your holes look like this for testing battery voltage you want to use holes 2 and 3
With the batterys I have here if my memory is correct the inner terminal was positive so you want to use the red probe on that but if you get it wrong it want cause a problem it will just read negative insted of positive (so it will look like -3.7 insted of 3.7)
If your holes look like this for testing battery voltage you want to use holes 2 and 3
With the batterys I have here if my memory is correct the inner terminal was positive so you want to use the red probe on that but if you get it wrong it want cause a problem it will just read negative insted of positive (so it will look like -3.7 insted of 3.7)
if you reverse the black and red leads you will get a negitive voltage - no need to switch the probes just take the absolute value of the reading. On the multimeter the probe inputs are usually color coded, but it really doesn't matter. The probes are exactly the same except for color (Colour).
thanks GTO got it. got a reading of 4.09 on the battery..my problem was i was switching the red probe to hole 1 to test volts. i thought hole 2 was explicitly for ohm reading. cool now i will be able to test all the batts and see which ones are best for quality.
i dont suppose you can test a battery's MUH with this device?
also GTO, why do you suppose some batteries give up? are there different reasons? anyway of shocking life back into them with the multi-meter?
also thanks for the input BC.
i dont suppose you can test a battery's MUH with this device?
also GTO, why do you suppose some batteries give up? are there different reasons? anyway of shocking life back into them with the multi-meter?
also thanks for the input BC.
batteries tend to get old you can cycle them on the charger a few times without discharging them to try and bring there "Memory" back up but they tend to drop off over time, Lithium are normaly very good cells, I use them often in Rc models and electronic projects, but I guess these are cheep cells and are prone to damage from the abuse e-smoking gives them.
When you say MUH do you mean mAh?
When you say MUH do you mean mAh?
yeah, i guess i must mean mah. the amount of power a battery can contain as i understand enabling it to last longer on a charge.
sometimes batteries come not working, and sometimes refuse to work after a week. i dropped one it its head once and that did it. it would stay on sporadically causing the atmzr to sizzle or it wouldnt work at all. this happened also to another battery that hadnt been dropped. you think the micro-chip is to fault or wiring?
sometimes batteries come not working, and sometimes refuse to work after a week. i dropped one it its head once and that did it. it would stay on sporadically causing the atmzr to sizzle or it wouldnt work at all. this happened also to another battery that hadnt been dropped. you think the micro-chip is to fault or wiring?
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if the battery is intermitant it's more likely to be loose wires or loose components(known as dry joints), if you know how to strip the unit it may be worth having a look to see if it can be soldered.
the mAh(milliampere-hour) is the runtime of the battery, if you think of a fuel tank the more it holds the higher the no. of ltrs well its the same with mAh on a battery. to test your batterys mAh you can use ohms law(I=V/R) to get a rough idea, you know the volts of the battery and you know the resistance of the atomizer so if you take the volts and divide it by the ohms you get the amps of the circuit. now time how long it takes for your battery to die (only the time the switch is engaged) so say your avarage drag is 4 seconds see how many drags it takes to die and work it from there. so for arguments sake the Amps of the circuit are 1A and takes 1hour for the battery to die you know that the battery is giving you 1 amp hour 1Ah or 1000mAh (1000ma = 1A) if it gives you 1.5 hours you know you are getting 1.5 amp hour or 1500mAh and so on
I hope that makes sense but I find it hard to put it in writing (dyslexia), hence all the spelling mistakes, I am almost sure I haven't made any factual mistakes but if anyone spots any let me know (i would have never made a good teacher lol)
the mAh(milliampere-hour) is the runtime of the battery, if you think of a fuel tank the more it holds the higher the no. of ltrs well its the same with mAh on a battery. to test your batterys mAh you can use ohms law(I=V/R) to get a rough idea, you know the volts of the battery and you know the resistance of the atomizer so if you take the volts and divide it by the ohms you get the amps of the circuit. now time how long it takes for your battery to die (only the time the switch is engaged) so say your avarage drag is 4 seconds see how many drags it takes to die and work it from there. so for arguments sake the Amps of the circuit are 1A and takes 1hour for the battery to die you know that the battery is giving you 1 amp hour 1Ah or 1000mAh (1000ma = 1A) if it gives you 1.5 hours you know you are getting 1.5 amp hour or 1500mAh and so on
I hope that makes sense but I find it hard to put it in writing (dyslexia), hence all the spelling mistakes, I am almost sure I haven't made any factual mistakes but if anyone spots any let me know (i would have never made a good teacher lol)
your making perfect sense GTO, i really appreciate it..so say now, i have here an atomizer of 3.6 ohms, and a battery readig 4.09v..
so i divide 4.09V by 3.6 ohms...i get 1.14 amps (I stands for amps in the eqaution?)
say i find out the battery lasts for 1 and half hours..
i multiply 1.5 (the time) by 1.14 (amps) which = 1.71 amps/hour or 1710 milli-amps/hour? (1710mah)
is that correct?
or do i divide 1.14(amps) by 1.5(time) and then multiply by 1000 to find the mah, giving me 760?
so i divide 4.09V by 3.6 ohms...i get 1.14 amps (I stands for amps in the eqaution?)
say i find out the battery lasts for 1 and half hours..
i multiply 1.5 (the time) by 1.14 (amps) which = 1.71 amps/hour or 1710 milli-amps/hour? (1710mah)
is that correct?
or do i divide 1.14(amps) by 1.5(time) and then multiply by 1000 to find the mah, giving me 760?
You're spot on DC, in your example 1710 mah is the correct one!
By the way i just measured 3.68volts on a batteri that gave me the "time is up"-blink.
If these Lithium batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7volts, that doesn't allow for much of a voltage drop before the warning light goes off.
Does anyone know if this is normal behavior with lithium batteries? I seem to remember that with nicd and nimh bateries, battery voltage could be taken as indication of the level of charge (and general health) of the battery.
GTO? Anyone?
By the way i just measured 3.68volts on a batteri that gave me the "time is up"-blink.
If these Lithium batteries have a nominal voltage of 3.7volts, that doesn't allow for much of a voltage drop before the warning light goes off.
Does anyone know if this is normal behavior with lithium batteries? I seem to remember that with nicd and nimh bateries, battery voltage could be taken as indication of the level of charge (and general health) of the battery.
GTO? Anyone?
1710 seems high. i imagine im way off with the 1.5 hour. its probably more like .5 of an hour or less, if you add it all up. im saying that cause someone quoted me once that an e-cig battery had 330mah...thats like 15-20 minutes use at those volts and ohms.
so T(time) x A(v/ohms) x 1000 =mah
also
T = mah / A x 1000
so if i knew the amp and the Mah. i could predict how long a battery will last...perfect!
so T(time) x A(v/ohms) x 1000 =mah
also
T = mah / A x 1000
so if i knew the amp and the Mah. i could predict how long a battery will last...perfect!
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when a battery is first charged it will read higher than its standard rate(chargers are very ineffiant) and when its dead it will read lower than its standard rate, this is a common factor shared with the type of batterys you will use NiMH, NiCd, Li-ion and Alkaline alike, Li-ion are used in alot of modern aplications due to there high rate of power to lower weight ratio,
modern radio controled flight being a prime example.
I have been using Li-ion for a number of years in my Rc cars and aircraft for better power to weight ratios and have found expensive cells to way out perform budjet cells when they have had a bit of use. the charger is a vital part of the perfect recipe that is often overlooked a good charger peak charger will always make your batteries last longer than a bad one but I don't know if my normal Li-ion peek charger will work in the case of the E-cig battery with the chip it has inside (I will strip one when I have one that gets lazzy or dies and check out how it works)
there are alot of good Li-ion battries avalible in the Radio Controled world of all sizes and power so if you do get a bed unit it may be worth striping it and changing the cell for a quality one(I bet you would be suprised by its performance)
modern radio controled flight being a prime example.
I have been using Li-ion for a number of years in my Rc cars and aircraft for better power to weight ratios and have found expensive cells to way out perform budjet cells when they have had a bit of use. the charger is a vital part of the perfect recipe that is often overlooked a good charger peak charger will always make your batteries last longer than a bad one but I don't know if my normal Li-ion peek charger will work in the case of the E-cig battery with the chip it has inside (I will strip one when I have one that gets lazzy or dies and check out how it works)
there are alot of good Li-ion battries avalible in the Radio Controled world of all sizes and power so if you do get a bed unit it may be worth striping it and changing the cell for a quality one(I bet you would be suprised by its performance)
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