I jusr got an hcigar Hammer with an iClear atomizer.
Darn thing won’t fire !
I’m using a fully charged 18650 battery.
Darn thing won’t fire !
I’m using a fully charged 18650 battery.
anyone using a Kato Hammer clone with an iClear atomizer ?
- Thread starter Terry Koontz
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Post a pic of your setup and lets see whats up with it.
If it isnt firing, and the coil is good and battery charged, something isn't making contact.
If it isnt firing, and the coil is good and battery charged, something isn't making contact.
thanks for the good info.
what about an aspire nautilis ?
do you have any suggesrions for an atomizer ?
What fully charged 18650 battery?
Name brand & any letters/numbers on wrap.
The nautilus 2 might work on it using the .7Ω head, but,,, as Bad Ninja said pre made coils with cheap insulators are not a good choice for use on a mechanical.
When using a mechanical you need to check for shorts & measure resistance on each one with a multimeter / ohms checker of some sort to ensure you don't create a malfunction / dangerous situation.
Probably best to set it aside until you get the proper equipment & understand how to use a mechanical safely.
Mechanicals are geared towards advanced users familiar with battery selection & safety, ohms law, own & know how to use the proper equipment to ensure safety, in the hands of the inexperienced can be dangerous or become dangerous in a blink of an eye.
Name brand & any letters/numbers on wrap.
The nautilus 2 might work on it using the .7Ω head, but,,, as Bad Ninja said pre made coils with cheap insulators are not a good choice for use on a mechanical.
When using a mechanical you need to check for shorts & measure resistance on each one with a multimeter / ohms checker of some sort to ensure you don't create a malfunction / dangerous situation.
Probably best to set it aside until you get the proper equipment & understand how to use a mechanical safely.
Mechanicals are geared towards advanced users familiar with battery selection & safety, ohms law, own & know how to use the proper equipment to ensure safety, in the hands of the inexperienced can be dangerous or become dangerous in a blink of an eye.
I suppose you could try to vape a 0.7 Nautilus coil on a mech mod, but it's not really designed for that. I'd advise buying a regulated mod there are going to be tons of things you can try on that (including building your own coils if you want) but really, starting out with a mech mod isn't a great plan.
You'll find lots of great recommendations. I'm vaping my Nautilus on a Steampunk tesla 120 nano. Unless I get really creative down the line, I'm underusing it's capabilities (LOL, I will probably get creative) but that's just fine with me. I'd rather have something user friendly that I can "grow with" and that provides a smooth vape... You couldn't get me near a mech mod at this point unless the owner were willing to sell it to me and upgrade *my* firmware by downloading all the necessary information into my skull. It's not a good first choice. Read around on starter kit/mech mod demos/reviews/threads, and maybe read some information here as a starting point:
New Members Information
I'm sure more folks will be along to give you specific recommendations. And honestly an internal battery/stick might be the best place to start, for you. You can start small, then as you desire different things, keep your old gear for backups/travel etc.
Anna
You'll find lots of great recommendations. I'm vaping my Nautilus on a Steampunk tesla 120 nano. Unless I get really creative down the line, I'm underusing it's capabilities (LOL, I will probably get creative) but that's just fine with me. I'd rather have something user friendly that I can "grow with" and that provides a smooth vape... You couldn't get me near a mech mod at this point unless the owner were willing to sell it to me and upgrade *my* firmware by downloading all the necessary information into my skull. It's not a good first choice. Read around on starter kit/mech mod demos/reviews/threads, and maybe read some information here as a starting point:
New Members Information
I'm sure more folks will be along to give you specific recommendations. And honestly an internal battery/stick might be the best place to start, for you. You can start small, then as you desire different things, keep your old gear for backups/travel etc.
Anna
Atomizers with replaceable coil heads are not designed for mechanical mods.
The cheap soft rubber insulators can tear and cause a short.
With a mechanical mod, there isn't any protection or safety.
A dead short can damage the battery, which can damage thr vaper sticking it in their mouth.
Most rebuildable atomizers will work.
Here's the deal:
You have an advanced mech mod that is deaigned for vapers that understand the dangers, and know how to use it.
Its not a safe beginner mod.
Its not a really good mech to learn on.
You have an atty that is designed for regulated devices.
I would shelve the Hammer, buy a regulated mod for now, and start reading that Hammer thread I linked in your other post before you hurt yourself.
That looks like a copy of the Eleaf iPower 80w. That's a decent mod though I bet you paid way to much for that.
+1, I have to agree. The only way to adjust the power of the vape on a mech is by coil building to suit the available battery voltage. They are not well suited for pre-made coil tanks. Moreover, the QC on coil heads leaves a bit to be desired, which (in addition to the iniquitously expensive cost) is why I have been rolling my own for years; and the former reason is why they are unsafe on a mechanical mod. Further, I also agree mechs are not for beginners, or even long-time vapers who do not understand the interplay of the various factors in Ohm's Law. Mechs can be used safely; I have been doing it for years. But it really is a good idea to do some reading first, and measuring your coil value before firing is an absolute requirement.
All that said, The HCigar Hammer clones-- and all the rest, AFAIK-- use a cheesy spring as the contact between the two buttons under the 510 connector. One button faces up, to contact the atomizer, and the other faces down to contact the (usually brass) sleeve surrounding the battery and carrying the current to the inward-end of the battery. This spring actually carries the mod current; there is no other means of contact between the two buttons.
Three gets five, if the battery is charged and the topper making good contact, that spring is south. You can try taking the piece apart-- the engraved ring surrounding the 510 unscrews and the buttons and spring will cheerfully fly across the room if you're not careful. You can try polishing the ends of the spring and the inner cups of the buttons to make them better contact, see if that helps. AFAIK, there is no place to buy a replacement spring, although I have heard, but never tried, the replacement switch spring for a King V2 mech will fit and work. You could also try to spec the spring and buy something similar from a spring supplier. However, at the price of a new clone Hammer-- you can find them under $20 on eBay-- and considering the price of getting a single spring from a supplier, you might be better off getting a new one.
Go ahead, if you like: ask me how I know all this...
All that said, The HCigar Hammer clones-- and all the rest, AFAIK-- use a cheesy spring as the contact between the two buttons under the 510 connector. One button faces up, to contact the atomizer, and the other faces down to contact the (usually brass) sleeve surrounding the battery and carrying the current to the inward-end of the battery. This spring actually carries the mod current; there is no other means of contact between the two buttons.
Three gets five, if the battery is charged and the topper making good contact, that spring is south. You can try taking the piece apart-- the engraved ring surrounding the 510 unscrews and the buttons and spring will cheerfully fly across the room if you're not careful. You can try polishing the ends of the spring and the inner cups of the buttons to make them better contact, see if that helps. AFAIK, there is no place to buy a replacement spring, although I have heard, but never tried, the replacement switch spring for a King V2 mech will fit and work. You could also try to spec the spring and buy something similar from a spring supplier. However, at the price of a new clone Hammer-- you can find them under $20 on eBay-- and considering the price of getting a single spring from a supplier, you might be better off getting a new one.
Go ahead, if you like: ask me how I know all this...
I have an X.I (2.1 ohms) that I sometimes use on my mech (a Sir Lancelot). I have to pry out the clearo's center pin just a little so it will make contact. I haven't come to a 100% conclusion that it's the clearo itself though, as it works on the mech when I use a 510/eGo adapter as an extender, or on one of the several regs that I have, both without doing the 'pry mod' thing.
- Status
Similar threads
