Apollo clone mod questions

[Justadude]

Hey guys, is there anyone that has any experience with.apollo.or apollo clone mods?

I'm looking at getting it and got some questions first before I drop money on my first mech mod..

If you guys don't mind helping me out.

mods - I'm an idiot. I originally posted it in the general e liquids section by mistake. Please remove my original post in that section. Please and thank you

 

[Sunburst]

I don't know, but as a space and astronomy geek, I only need to find the perfect drip tip just so I can get the clone mod, atty and drip tip to put on display. After a paint-job, of course. Totally non-functional, but I'd make the sacrifice to have it.

 

[Justadude]

Lol I'm serious dude :

ok so here's my questions:

1 I want to get around .15 to .2 ohms. I want to run pre built 20 or 22 gauge coils to hit those ohms. Will Sony 18650 vtc4 be good enough in that apollo clone so that it's safe and I don't end up blowing my face off lol

2 any feedback about apollo clone mods and their reliability? I can't afford an authentic.

3 Will xtar charger be a good buy for that Sony?

4 will a fuse be a wise investment or just a waste of 15 bucks?

 

[Justadude]

ok so I would like to update this thread with more info for you guys to help me:

First of all some history on me I guess since I'm new to the community - I quit smoking a month ago, got into vaping, made my mistakes before by buying crap from a gas station, found a store, spent a f@ck load of money there, got a kanger evod for my day-at-work time and later ended up getting aspire atlantis tank with the cf sub ohm battery. But I wanted more. More flavor, more clouds. Tried a dripper, fell in love. But the dripper rda I got right now I can't use with my sub ohm aspire battery 'cause it drains it, probably 'cause it's running 24 gauge dual coil in the neighborhood of .2-.3 ohms while the aspire sub ohm battery pushes .5 ohms. Which makes sense why it drains it quick and why the coils get hot, 'cause the electricity doesn't flow through fast enough. So I realized I needed a mech mod, started doing my due diligence and doing research on batteries, on safety, and all kinds of shie1.

Found this....

APOLLO MOD WHITE + DARK HORSE RDA COMBO | Vape Demand, LLC

I was gonna get this thing but after reading the other "dark horse clone" thread I'm skeptical as all hell about it now. I don't want to dish out 230 fazools on an authentic 'cause I already spent enough on vaping in general, which is why I was gonna get the Apollo clone.

With it I was gonna get these batteries (sony 18650 vtc4)
Sony 18650 VTC4 2100mAh 30a

This charger (xtar-vc2)
Xtar VC2 - RTD vapor

And this fuse (safe mod 2)
Vape Safe Mod Fuse 2 - RTD vapor

Sorry for the lengthy a## post but could you guys please help me out? I want to know if this is the right set up. I'm planning on running 20 to 22 gauge pre built coils in there, although I don't know what brand of coil is good and I'm not sure if Kenthall sells pre builds.

Safety is very important to me but in the same time I want more flavor, more clouds, more throat hit, and so forth. From what I've seen so far this should work good for me and save me SOME money from not getting an authentic mod or an 90 dollar tugboat

I'll appreciate any response, even the sarcastic tough love ones lol

 

[Justadude]

I looked at the RDA that I'm dripping from at the moment and it's Plume Veil which I'm positive is a clone 'cause it cost me 20 bucks but that would explain why the flavor production is good, now I just need a good mech mod

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

Fu makes really good clones, if you can find it in copper instead of white i would recommend that. If its a real 1:1 clone then it has a hybrid 510 adapter. Make sure your 510 connection on you atty is set properly before using because if not, it will short the battery. Sony vtc4 are good batteries, i use them on dual 22 gauge 6 wrap micro coil at about .18 ohms without any issues. Just make sure you do your research and know what youre getting into so you dont hurt yourself. I love ameravape products i would suggest getting a tugboat v2 with a hubble cap or wide bore flawless cap over the dark horse though. Just my personal preference.

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

And i run an efest luc4 charger

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

A great authentic copper mod that is inexpensive is the smk copper flagship. Runs about 120 and has a better voltage drop than the Apollo

 

[Train2]

Don't know the mod, but here's a great Apollo atomizer, and you could use a Gemini drip tip...
LOL

I don't know, but as a space and astronomy geek, I only need to find the perfect drip tip just so I can get the clone mod, atty and drip tip to put on display. After a paint-job, of course. Totally non-functional, but I'd make the sacrifice to have it.

 

[Train2]

Can't really advise on the atty - but I did want to mention
a) you picked great batteries from a trustworthy vendor
b) good charger
c) Fuse is cool, I don't know what mods will fit that with an 18650 battery - its something else to check, if there's room...

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

Fuse wont fit n the Apollo

 

[Justadude]

Guys - thank you all for replies. Chris - why did you say copper would be better than white?

And as for the atty - I was gonna screw the top on first to the bottom of the atty and then connect that to the mod. How would I know if it's a good solid connection to the battery? I'm asking cause I obviously can't see through the mod.

The plume veil atty clone that I got has a good size screw at the bottom so I'm ASSUMING it would make a good connection. Thoughts?

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

With the Apollo the hybrid connection is the adjustment for battery rattle screw it on to the rda, put the battery in the Apollo and the connect the hyrbid top to the mech until its snug. And from my experience the copper has better conductivity and with have better voltage drop.

 

[Justadude]

Gotcha. So question - I was under the impression that it's just coated with paint on the outside and still has copper inside. Correct me if I'm wrong.

So are you referring to getting full on copper? Sorry if it sounds stupid I just want to make sure I got the understanding on the actual build of the mod correct. Is it in fact just coated with paint and built from copper? Or are they build from a different material in order for them to be able to paint it.

 

[Justadude]

Also about the fuse - is there another fuse that I can get and do I REALLY need it? Do most of you guys even use fuses?

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

I havent seen any authentic Apollo mods or clones in person other than brass and copper, so i cant speak of how the fupollo is made. What the mod is made of is personal preference really, i like copper mods lol. And i havent used any fuses in any of my mechs, im sure some ppl do but an Apollo is made for a single 18650. You can always email ameravape or the company that make fu hattans and Apollo and ask them directly if any fuses will fit the mod. If you build your rda properly to your batteries amp rating and test it for shorts you dont need a fuse. Safety never hurts. If you never built an rda before you might wanna start with a regulated device before diving into mechs.

 

[Justadude]

Hey dude, I already have a regulated device and do have experience building rdas. I'm still doing research but the more I learn the more confident I am that that Sony 18650 vtc4 30 amp will be a good fit for my .15 to .2 range.

Any good tips on checking for shorts?

 

[Justadude]

how do I check for shorts on the mod? not the atty but the mod? Any suggestions? I've looked online but didn't find anything specific

 

[Justadude]

ok so I'm confused about something, I found that in order to check for shorts on a mod body you touch the positive pin on the top where it would normally connect to the atty and the negative prong to the body of the mod. But if the Apollo has a hybrid connection (510) wouldn't that automatically "connect" to the negative part of the body of a mod? I'm a little confusued, can someone explain?

 

[chrisKRAWLER]

You check for continuity between your positive pin and your negative pin normally. The positive pin on the atty connected to your hybrid mod is your positive pin on the mod body. So to check for a short you would check for continuity between the positive and negative pin on the atty (without a coil attached). Only problem is you wont get continuity unless your battery in install and then its already shorted. The only way you would short out a battery in a hybrid mod (besides the coil touching ground) would be if the adjustable positive 510 connection on your atty was flush or recessed into the negative part of your 510 connection on your atty. Just make sure you atty is set up correctly and youll be fine.