Apollo clone mod questions
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A shorter version of that explanation is as long as your atty is set properly and not shorted youre fine
Thanks Chris,
I didn't personally like the look of the desert clone killer, I've ordered Apollo earlier on today, still didn't order the batteries or the charger yet but that's getting ordered either tomorrow or the day after.
So I read that with a fuse (I looked into the 2 cent fuse 'cause the safe vape 2 fuse you said wouldn't fit in the Apollo), so I read that with a fuse it won't let you go lower than .5 ohms. Same case with a kick that would sit on a positive pin of the battery at the top. Should I just bypass it all together?
I'm thinking (just as you said), that as long as I check that my atty is fine, and my coils are reading the right ohm, and the battery is reading the right charge, all that before I fire it up, I think I should be fine. Do you think there is anything else I should check for?
Also, just out of curiosity - if I was to put a positive prong from a multimeter to the positive pin on the bottom of my plume veil atty, and the negative prong to the side of the screw, and it reads zero, that would mean that there is no resistance within the atty itself to cause a short. Do I have this correct? lol sorry if it sounds dumb, I just want to make sure I don't screw anything up
I didn't personally like the look of the desert clone killer, I've ordered Apollo earlier on today, still didn't order the batteries or the charger yet but that's getting ordered either tomorrow or the day after.
So I read that with a fuse (I looked into the 2 cent fuse 'cause the safe vape 2 fuse you said wouldn't fit in the Apollo), so I read that with a fuse it won't let you go lower than .5 ohms. Same case with a kick that would sit on a positive pin of the battery at the top. Should I just bypass it all together?
I'm thinking (just as you said), that as long as I check that my atty is fine, and my coils are reading the right ohm, and the battery is reading the right charge, all that before I fire it up, I think I should be fine. Do you think there is anything else I should check for?
Also, just out of curiosity - if I was to put a positive prong from a multimeter to the positive pin on the bottom of my plume veil atty, and the negative prong to the side of the screw, and it reads zero, that would mean that there is no resistance within the atty itself to cause a short. Do I have this correct? lol sorry if it sounds dumb, I just want to make sure I don't screw anything up
I've actually just looked at my plume veil atty, and the positive pin is clearly separated from the screw, I guess I was originally getting confused on this part since I knew that it had to get screwed into the hybrid connection.
One last quick question - would I still need an ohm meter if the multimeter would give me the same result? Besides the convenience part obviously
And should I trust pre-built coils? I mean as long as they give me the right ohm why not I guess? Please correct me if I'm wrong at let me know your thoughts.
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Kanthal is a type of wire most commonly available from Temco, they do not build coils for the vape industry, lol. Read some of "Baditude's blogs, you certainly need to gain more knowledge before vaping at low sub-ohm. I'm not trying to be a jerk, I'm being serious. There's a lot more to it than buying some Sony's and thinking it'll be ok! You need to now about ohms-law, and how that relates to the coil you wanna run, and your batteries capabilities. I'd go hang out in a shop that has educated folks that can show you how to properly wrap coils, and more importantly, what not to do. You seriously can't read a few posts, and learn enough about safety. There's a lot of mis-information out there, take the time to learn it before diving in head first. Good luck!
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I know dude, I got more to learn, even though I do know ohm's law and how it relates to coils and wraps and all I know I still got more to learn. Atlantis (by aspire) is already sub ohm but that's a regulated mod. I've built one coil 2 days ago on my atty as opposed to running it dual and it was at .6 ohms. The battery being capable of running .5 made sense why I was able to puff on it for the entire evening the last 2 days. But regardless, I know there is still more out there that I need to learn and that's what I'm doing. I'm asking you guys questions that I haven't found an answer for basically. And I'm actually going through all of Baditutes blogs lol
why?
so I just did some calculations, aaaand.....
if sony's have a max continuous discharging current of 30 amps, at a 3.6 voltage, then that would put me at .12 ohm that I should build my coils at, which should be absolute lowest. Correct?
or should I use 4.2 volts like Baditude says in his "ohms law for dummies" blog? at the very end
if sony's have a max continuous discharging current of 30 amps, at a 3.6 voltage, then that would put me at .12 ohm that I should build my coils at, which should be absolute lowest. Correct?
or should I use 4.2 volts like Baditude says in his "ohms law for dummies" blog? at the very end
4.2 is what you use as your reference voltage. It's roughly the voltage you start with on a freshly charged battery. By the time a mechanical gets to 3.6 volts, most people are changing batteries. Also, you need leave plenty of headroom in regards to what your battery is capable of safely handling. I would not personally push my batteries to the maximum limits. People do all the time, but I do not recommend it.
Also if you recalculate at 4.2 volts, your at 35 Amps!
Also if you recalculate at 4.2 volts, your at 35 Amps!
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Just something to think about...why do feel you need to build so low? At .12- ohms that's very close to a dead short. You need a lot of experience, and real good multimeter, to even be in the vicinity of being safe. I wrap coils in the 0.7 ohm range that produce massive vapor production. I strongly recommend that you gain knowledge before proceeding with these super low builds your talking about. Not trying to be rude, you do not have the basic knowledge yet to be trying what your asking about.
Yup, and at 35 amps I'm already 5 amps over the battery's limit, something I wouldn't attempt 'cause I don't want to put stress on the battery, better safe than sorry
No offense taken and any feedback you guys give me is dully noted and definitely taken to heart. I simply want more flavor and more clouds. Right now I'm at .6 and while I love the flavor on my rda as opposed to a tank and there is also more vapor production, I simply want more of both - more flavor and more vapor. Hence why I'm doing my research calculating s.... left and right to be certain that I don't stress the battery and push it beyond it's limits.
You will get more flavor as your builds get better. The vapor production can increase with a better build as well. The density of your wick can also effect flavor/vapor too! Good luck
Thanks dude, aside of battery voltage and coil resistance is there anything else I can check for on my multi-meter? As Chris said above I won't be able to check for resistance on the hybrid body
I have a lot of experience with all things Ameravape. I don't use clones I buy the authentic ones. I suggest saving your money to buy the real one.
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